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  • Posts

    • Wow, this is a beautiful log! I'm waiting to do a Classic -> Classic II board upgrade, so the recap guide is really gonna help. Did you ever figure out what the jumper wires were for – maybe broken traces?
    • What an improvement.  A slight blue hue just makes it unique
    • Here's what the case looked like at the beginning of the day.     I left some water out in a bin overnight, and this morning at 9 or 10 AM it was about 75 degrees.     I dumped in six bottles of 40 proof hydrogen peroxide. I noticed that all of the caps felt really loose on these, and the little sealing thing came off in the cap. It makes me wonder if these were really sealed up...     Sadly, it just didn't get very hot today. I never saw it clear 95°F. The fishtank heater brings it up to 90°F on it's own.     After about 4 hours, I swapped in the back.     Towards the end of the day, I took the rusty chassis and logic board shield over to my brother's shop. He makes AR-15 lowers and accessories, and has a lot of great tools, such as a sandblasting cabinet. I've never used one of these, and found that it's pretty hard to see what you're doing in the cabinet.     Here are the results. He instructed me to not touch the parts - just go home, hit them with compressed air, and apply primer.       Of course, I'm out of masking tape, so to mask off any metal parts that I wanted to keep exposed, I used black electrical tape. You can see a tiny square of it on the chassis. I tried to mask off any parts where I thought connecting grounds would be important.     My brother gave me a can of high-temperature primer. It's designed for headers and other parts for engines... because... you know. Macs get super hot.   But seriously, it's primer. That's all I wanted.     It does seem a bit "blue". I'm trying to decide whether to go buy a can of flat grey, or just put it back together as-is. Let me know what you think.
    • No it's a universal limitation: a non-High Speed -RW drive won't burn a High Speed-rated -RW disc. The same is true regarding Ultra Speed discs and earlier drives, as well: can read but won't write at all. I don't know for sure what's different technically but quick reading suggests it's a difference in laser write output and/or chemicals used in the disc dye across the various generations.   I don't use -RWs a ton but I have a small stockpile of older discs should I need them. It's not easy to find the early -RW discs anymore without mail-ordering some NOS discs or buying from special vendors. Sometimes you'll get lucky at a thrift store.