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OleLila

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    East Tennessee

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  1. Its actually pretty darn quite compared to the internal.
  2. Perfect..thank you. I googled searched but couldn't narrow it down. It spins but no LED. I have ROM version 0, so I cannot boot. I did use Apple Utilities disk to format and duplicate a disk....it all the commands went through and it thought it duplicated but the duplicate didn't work. Will have to clean the head later and try again. Again, Thank you for searching this out.
  3. I picked this up locally planning to use it with a IIc. It looks the part, it even came from the local school system. The last 2 characters on the model number are even "GS". There is a disk inside it...Wheel of Fortune" form 1988 that says on the label "Boot DOS disk (version 2.11 or greater) then insert this one to launch the game. When I look at the serial ports on older PC's, I do not see this 19 pin DB connection, but it does fit the port on the Apple IIc. Really, really do not want to fry the Iic. Anyone out there have any confidence on this or a way to test?
  4. OleLila

    CURRENT most reliable Powerbook?

    I have PB 160 and 520c that, aside from the hinges, have been good. found one non-working Duo about 2 years ago...now have gone down the rabbit hole and have a bin full of parts for duo's without a single working unit. Not recommended.
  5. Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone. This one has one minimal scratch lower left that is almost impossible to see when it is on. It looks great...the guy who put it on Craigs list didn't know anything about it except that it had been in storage. The screen looked awful at first with a grey web over the front that I thought was the antiglare going bad. It definitely wasn't dust and if it was just dirt, it was fairly baked on. I used a soft cloth and, well, actually LCD screen cleaning spray, and rubbed for about 10 minutes....the cloth turned grey and the web is gone....maybe it was the remainder of the antiglare coating degenerated in storage but the result was unexpectedly good as compared with the starting point.
  6. OleLila

    Oh. Great. Another IIsi...

    Jinnai recapped my IIsi...it works and looks great.
  7. I just wanted to put that title to the post so it would pop up quickly for anyone doing a search. It never crossed my mind that this adapter wouldn't work on the CTR's with the same connector. If you have a CTR that has the ADC connector, as best as I can determine, it must be powered via the video card...the adapter doesn't work. Luckily, had a card available and it worked out pretty well...nice bright screen. The adapter is for LCD's only.
  8. OleLila

    G4 Cube with Sonnet 1 GHz and other goodies

    Thats a bargin....nice
  9. OleLila

    PowerBook 160 help (broken hinge mount)

    Here is my progressive repair of one of the two broken hinges on a PB 160. This is JB weld. It is a game of less than millimeters to get these to line up. It was difficult even using the remains of the shattered support. The pictures are from the first attempt. I did heap up the JB Weld, but it flattened some during the initial drying. I used a dremmel to shave away the JB weld so the hinge would fit. It was not a quick process...shave, try hinge, find resistance, shave, repeat. In the pictures with the hinge screwed on, you can see that the right post is a little off...I got a screw in, but it broke fairly promptly. On the second try (not pictured). I coated the screw and the back of the hinge with olive oil, then, carefully keeping the oil off the post, I screwed the post onto the hinge, then put the JB weld down and pressed the hinge into place and screwed on the good side to hold it in place for drying. I was very careful with replacing the LCD, etc but so far so good. Also,the unbroken posts were shored up with some JB weld while there , but even in doing this, I had to dremmel a lot away of that JB Weld that had just been put down to get the hinge back on. Thanks to Jannai for the bright screen (capped).
  10. OleLila

    PowerBook 1400 Hinge Repair

    So if I used classic brand name WD-40 thinking I had used a lubricant...it has likely evaporated now? I used it on an old PC laptop with sticky hinges and it sure acts that way. If so..here comes silicone.
  11. OleLila

    Holy Moly SCSI->IDE 2.5 Adapter

    After finding a couple of IDE to SCSI bridges, I had to go to way back machine to find information so I am reposting it at the end. I can confirm the last three dip switches do set the scsi drive number with either bridge. On the ide to SCSI bridge from a Power Book duo (pictured with the Lattice chip above the switches/kaplan tape)the adapter works with the apple labeled IDE drive and other (tested IBM and Fujitsu less than 2 gb) drives. The other pictured bridge (without the lattice chip above the dip switches), even set with dip switches 3 and 4 on (or off for that matter), does not terminate in a powerbook 160....as soon as I plug in an external terminated Zip drive, only then does boot from the internal drive continue. The setting of the first 3 dip switches does not alter the function, as far as I can detect, of a functioning boot up IDE drive plugged into the bridge. (I am talking left to right in the photos...watch out, because after looking at the photos, I can read the dip switch numbers) REPOST: There are two known versions for the board (chips listed left to right topdown): symbios logic 53CF96-2 (narrow SCSI HBA); a pair of Toshiba TC558128AJ-15 (15ns 128Kx8 CMOS static RAM); a pair of ALS245A (buffers); Lattice pLSI1016 (PLCC); LSI KL5C80A16CF (Z80 instruction compatible microcontroller); Atmel AT27C256R-70RC (70ns 32Kx8 CMOS EPROM). symbios logic 53CF96-2 (narrow SCSI HBA); a pair of SEC KM681001BJ-15 (15ns 128Kx8 CMOS static RAM); a pair of ALS245A (buffers); LSI KL5C80A16CF (Z80 instruction compatible microcontroller); Atmel AT27C256R-70RC (70ns 32Kx8 CMOS EPROM); Lattice pLSI1016 (PLCC). The DIP switches Left to right: 0 dunno 1 dunno 2 dunno 3 SCSI bus termination 4 SCSI bus termination 5 SCSI target bit 2 6 SCSI target bit 1 7 SCSI target bit 0 IDE drive geometry as far as i can tell the board only understands drives with maximum of 15 heads and 63 sectors per track. the cylinder number is limited to 16384. the controller does not honour the total number of sectors on the drive that limits the total capacity to a little bit less than 8G. drives with more than 15 heads seem to allow the device to probe but fail to accomplish any actual data transfers resulting in controller timeouts. that sounds like an overflow and thus division by zero on the board's controller (;
  12. Update: I being absolutely foolish asa far as how joyful this 20 year old computer booting has made me.The hard drive installation went so smoothly, there was no way, no way, I thought, I did physical macro damage or dislodging of components. I didn't remove the CPU card, as Franklinstien recommended....I pressed down where it seated and it was firm and still the same result... screaming fan and led. With little confidence of a different result I took the CPU card out. I removed all memory then replaced the memory on the removed card. With the CPU card out and the keyboard still attached, I powered the computer up (with the result LED and full steam fan once again), reset the PMU (shift-fn-ctrl-pwr) then removed all power and replaced the CPU card. When reattaching the power supply, about 0.5 sec LED and Fan, then press power button.....CHIME.....about 7-10 seconds of silence then flashing disc question mark. It was back. Now running 9.2.2 with SD to ATA. Thank you Mr. Franklinstein....you are the man.
  13. All glory is fleeting. I found reasonable looking untested powerbook G3 266. Initially on powering up, chime, hard drive clicked, clicked then a flashing disk on a reasonably good screen. I started up several times (and left it on) with an installation CD for 9.2.2 and 8.6. Great..it works, but need a hard drive. It was an easy, quick change from a broken 4.3 gb to an available 80 GB drive. After the hard drive change, on plugging in the power, the fan immediately turns on and stays on at high speed. No chime, no screen, just fan and steady LED. The power button has no effect. I can turn it (fan and LED only) off and on by pressing shift-fn-ctrl-pwr.I Let it sit with the battery, without the battery, with the old hard drive, without any hard drive, without memory and its all the same...plug in power, fan on at high speed, led on, can turn on and off with the above key combination. If I take this apart, should I disconnect the PRAM battery and leave it disconnected....what else should I replace while I'm in there. It is a complete dissasembly to get to the PRAM battery...history has proven, I only have a limited number of disassembles before something goes. I do note it is drawing 7.6 watts when the fan is on, but nothing when plugged in and off....but the main battery has never had any LED even after leaving plugged in when it was booting.
  14. OleLila

    PowerBook 160 help (broken hinge mount)

    Here is a success story with pictures as of 2018. https://imgur.com/gallery/xlJQgIW#VDMwwrW Further caution/heads up for beginners out there. When you remove the 2 screws under the the caps and take the front bezel off, the two screws you just removed ARE 50% of the hinge anchor. Do not open or close the lid/move the hinges (unless there is remarkably little resistance) once you have removed the bezel as the remaining 2 anchor points will snap (shatter maybe a more appropriate term) very easily.
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