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  1. I just wanted to put that title to the post so it would pop up quickly for anyone doing a search. It never crossed my mind that this adapter wouldn't work on the CTR's with the same connector. If you have a CTR that has the ADC connector, as best as I can determine, it must be powered via the video card...the adapter doesn't work. Luckily, had a card available and it worked out pretty well...nice bright screen. The adapter is for LCD's only.
  2. OleLila

    G4 Cube with Sonnet 1 GHz and other goodies

    Thats a bargin....nice
  3. OleLila

    PowerBook 160 help (broken hinge mount)

    Here is my progressive repair of one of the two broken hinges on a PB 160. This is JB weld. It is a game of less than millimeters to get these to line up. It was difficult even using the remains of the shattered support. The pictures are from the first attempt. I did heap up the JB Weld, but it flattened some during the initial drying. I used a dremmel to shave away the JB weld so the hinge would fit. It was not a quick process...shave, try hinge, find resistance, shave, repeat. In the pictures with the hinge screwed on, you can see that the right post is a little off...I got a screw in, but it broke fairly promptly. On the second try (not pictured). I coated the screw and the back of the hinge with olive oil, then, carefully keeping the oil off the post, I screwed the post onto the hinge, then put the JB weld down and pressed the hinge into place and screwed on the good side to hold it in place for drying. I was very careful with replacing the LCD, etc but so far so good. Also,the unbroken posts were shored up with some JB weld while there , but even in doing this, I had to dremmel a lot away of that JB Weld that had just been put down to get the hinge back on. Thanks to Jannai for the bright screen (capped).
  4. OleLila

    PowerBook 1400 Hinge Repair

    So if I used classic brand name WD-40 thinking I had used a lubricant...it has likely evaporated now? I used it on an old PC laptop with sticky hinges and it sure acts that way. If so..here comes silicone.
  5. OleLila

    Holy Moly SCSI->IDE 2.5 Adapter

    After finding a couple of IDE to SCSI bridges, I had to go to way back machine to find information so I am reposting it at the end. I can confirm the last three dip switches do set the scsi drive number with either bridge. On the ide to SCSI bridge from a Power Book duo (pictured with the Lattice chip above the switches/kaplan tape)the adapter works with the apple labeled IDE drive and other (tested IBM and Fujitsu less than 2 gb) drives. The other pictured bridge (without the lattice chip above the dip switches), even set with dip switches 3 and 4 on (or off for that matter), does not terminate in a powerbook 160....as soon as I plug in an external terminated Zip drive, only then does boot from the internal drive continue. The setting of the first 3 dip switches does not alter the function, as far as I can detect, of a functioning boot up IDE drive plugged into the bridge. (I am talking left to right in the photos...watch out, because after looking at the photos, I can read the dip switch numbers) REPOST: There are two known versions for the board (chips listed left to right topdown): symbios logic 53CF96-2 (narrow SCSI HBA); a pair of Toshiba TC558128AJ-15 (15ns 128Kx8 CMOS static RAM); a pair of ALS245A (buffers); Lattice pLSI1016 (PLCC); LSI KL5C80A16CF (Z80 instruction compatible microcontroller); Atmel AT27C256R-70RC (70ns 32Kx8 CMOS EPROM). symbios logic 53CF96-2 (narrow SCSI HBA); a pair of SEC KM681001BJ-15 (15ns 128Kx8 CMOS static RAM); a pair of ALS245A (buffers); LSI KL5C80A16CF (Z80 instruction compatible microcontroller); Atmel AT27C256R-70RC (70ns 32Kx8 CMOS EPROM); Lattice pLSI1016 (PLCC). The DIP switches Left to right: 0 dunno 1 dunno 2 dunno 3 SCSI bus termination 4 SCSI bus termination 5 SCSI target bit 2 6 SCSI target bit 1 7 SCSI target bit 0 IDE drive geometry as far as i can tell the board only understands drives with maximum of 15 heads and 63 sectors per track. the cylinder number is limited to 16384. the controller does not honour the total number of sectors on the drive that limits the total capacity to a little bit less than 8G. drives with more than 15 heads seem to allow the device to probe but fail to accomplish any actual data transfers resulting in controller timeouts. that sounds like an overflow and thus division by zero on the board's controller (;
  6. Update: I being absolutely foolish asa far as how joyful this 20 year old computer booting has made me.The hard drive installation went so smoothly, there was no way, no way, I thought, I did physical macro damage or dislodging of components. I didn't remove the CPU card, as Franklinstien recommended....I pressed down where it seated and it was firm and still the same result... screaming fan and led. With little confidence of a different result I took the CPU card out. I removed all memory then replaced the memory on the removed card. With the CPU card out and the keyboard still attached, I powered the computer up (with the result LED and full steam fan once again), reset the PMU (shift-fn-ctrl-pwr) then removed all power and replaced the CPU card. When reattaching the power supply, about 0.5 sec LED and Fan, then press power button.....CHIME.....about 7-10 seconds of silence then flashing disc question mark. It was back. Now running 9.2.2 with SD to ATA. Thank you Mr. Franklinstein....you are the man.
  7. All glory is fleeting. I found reasonable looking untested powerbook G3 266. Initially on powering up, chime, hard drive clicked, clicked then a flashing disk on a reasonably good screen. I started up several times (and left it on) with an installation CD for 9.2.2 and 8.6. Great..it works, but need a hard drive. It was an easy, quick change from a broken 4.3 gb to an available 80 GB drive. After the hard drive change, on plugging in the power, the fan immediately turns on and stays on at high speed. No chime, no screen, just fan and steady LED. The power button has no effect. I can turn it (fan and LED only) off and on by pressing shift-fn-ctrl-pwr.I Let it sit with the battery, without the battery, with the old hard drive, without any hard drive, without memory and its all the same...plug in power, fan on at high speed, led on, can turn on and off with the above key combination. If I take this apart, should I disconnect the PRAM battery and leave it disconnected....what else should I replace while I'm in there. It is a complete dissasembly to get to the PRAM battery...history has proven, I only have a limited number of disassembles before something goes. I do note it is drawing 7.6 watts when the fan is on, but nothing when plugged in and off....but the main battery has never had any LED even after leaving plugged in when it was booting.
  8. OleLila

    PowerBook 160 help (broken hinge mount)

    Here is a success story with pictures as of 2018. https://imgur.com/gallery/xlJQgIW#VDMwwrW Further caution/heads up for beginners out there. When you remove the 2 screws under the the caps and take the front bezel off, the two screws you just removed ARE 50% of the hinge anchor. Do not open or close the lid/move the hinges (unless there is remarkably little resistance) once you have removed the bezel as the remaining 2 anchor points will snap (shatter maybe a more appropriate term) very easily.
  9. OleLila

    Apple Studio 21 inch CRT....dang

    I had tried this monitor on and off with G3 tower and G4 laptop probably 25 times in the last 2 weeks and nothing. Yesterday on Ebay, there was a 20 inch LCD monitor that would fit in place of the trinitron , but before ordering I was going to try once more to adjust the brightness and the contrast controls. I hooked the 21 inch monitor to a G4 laptop and it came on as a second screen. Colors looked great, brightness was fine, controls worked ...no problems, once. I powered down and hooked it back up to the G3...now back to all the right noises but grey screen. On the G4 laptop, the monitor makes all the right noises, the G4 detects the monitor as a second screen, the brightness contrast control panels pop up when the button on the monitor is pressed, the monitor USB ports work...but grey screen. Is it possible to get to the video control board and get it out without having any contact/risks with the CRT? When you look at the service manual for the monitor, the CRT is pretty well shielded from the board. I'm wondering if a recap of the video board would be an option but am not wanting to be careless with a huge CRT.
  10. OleLila

    Apple Studio 21 inch CRT....dang

  11. OleLila

    Apple Studio 21 inch CRT....dang

    No...the firewire drive caused the G3 to freeze.....to break the freeze I unplugged the power to the G3 (the monitor was plugged into the G3 power supply).
  12. I waited and watched on ebay and craigs list to find a nearby 21 inch blue and white studio CTR display for a B&W G3 tower . After about 18 months, against the odd I think, I found one in fantastic condition and bought it. It worked with my blue and white g3 without a hitch for about 2 months. Then... I attached an external firewire drive and every time I plugged it into the G3, system 9.2 would lock up...the g3 would not reset even when holding down the power button on the tower....so I unplugged it....a couple of times. Once on re-powering the monitor and the computer made all of the right noises but only a grey screen...no mouse, maybe a minimal lightness but still dark grey, no faintly visible images. The monitor LED is yellow when turned on but then is green after G3 booting and degassing noises...just like always . The G3 tower does fine on a different monitor. The monitor behaves the same (grey with green LED) on a laptop and on the laptop using the monitor control panel the monitor is recognized.....just no picture. It even makes the degassing sound when it's turned on or even when I wake the computer (presumably) from sleep. I've googled but cannot find any information specific to this monitor. What is a good, not dangerous, next step to fix this 80 pound beauty?
  13. I had acquired a nonworking powerbook duo 280. It would chime, then make a loud, brief static sound through the speakers and go to a grey screen only. I decided to recap and see if that fixed it. While cleaning, around the negative terminal of C9, I found a broken resistor. As it was out of place and broken, I prepped its tiny pads as well. Remarkably, i do have another nonworking Duo 280 with this resistor still in place. My questions are 1) Does this have to be replaced? If it has to do with the charging of the battery or a non essential function, I would rather do no harm and leave it alone. 2) If it does have to be replaced, what is the best way for an amateur to try it? I have a heat gun but have been hesitant to put that much heat on a board I want to keep. It is really tiny so I doubt I could solder it. I have placed some very small jumper wires in the past onto similar sized pads.