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  1. I had acquired a nonworking powerbook duo 280. It would chime, then make a loud, brief static sound through the speakers and go to a grey screen only. I decided to recap and see if that fixed it. While cleaning, around the negative terminal of C9, I found a broken resistor. As it was out of place and broken, I prepped its tiny pads as well. Remarkably, i do have another nonworking Duo 280 with this resistor still in place. My questions are 1) Does this have to be replaced? If it has to do with the charging of the battery or a non essential function, I would rather do no harm and leave it alone. 2) If it does have to be replaced, what is the best way for an amateur to try it? I have a heat gun but have been hesitant to put that much heat on a board I want to keep. It is really tiny so I doubt I could solder it. I have placed some very small jumper wires in the past onto similar sized pads.
  2. That looks great. Thank you for the update. I used two soldiering irons to remove the caps on the LCD, I would vouch for rocking for removal and using a heat sink. Still kicking myself for the loss of a good LCD.
  3. OleLila

    Odd Duo Memory

    This was found in a nonworking (clicking) Duo 280. When I plug it into a working Duo 230, the 230 will not start up until I remove it. It appears to be memory and that's where it was. I cannot find a similar chip online. Can more memory plug into the connector on this?
  4. Well....not the fuse anyway.
  5. I opened one of these by drilling small holes and then used snap ring pliers, a small dental type pick, and a plastic pry bar. When the plastic wound't separate, I drilled another hole then scraped plastic out between the holes with the pick then separated with the pliers. Not pretty, a few gouges but not destroyed. I attempted a recap without success..its still not working, so I just used the cord on a toshiba power supply as described in a previous post. If you want the case, then message me...its about to end up in a box never to be seen again.
  6. OleLila

    Notice to Powerbook Duo Users!

    If I have a power supply that will boot a Duo 230, is it possible that it cannot boot a 280(and clicks on the motherboard?)
  7. OleLila

    Notice to Powerbook Duo Users!

    So, as above, except with a Duo 280...I replaced the capacitors and there is still only clicking. Are there other options? I guess I will recap a second time just in case. I hate to let this thing go.
  8. I was just going to leave a few comments about the power supply for a 520c.I had obtained the computer but had no adapter and I sprung for a working adapter on ebay for 30 bucks (more than the computer cost). When I plugged it in there was an instant pop, I checked the output and the voltage was low. I plugged in again and there was another pop, then no voltage...zero. I broke into the case and started to remove old capacitors as per multiple posts on the forum here. It's incredible how on you tube these things fall right out but I am apply prolonged heat and wiggling to get them out, then having to apply flux and braid excessively to get the area cleaned up. After spending 1-2 hours and getting2 out, I started to look for replacment options and found this on this forum from misieweke in 2009 "I was able to get my PB520 working with a 1.3A@15V power supply from a cable modem (free). I cut the connector off of the dead original power supply and wired the orange/red wires to +15V; the black wire and braid go to ground. The blue wire is not connected.IIRC the PB520 will run on any voltage from 12-18V. Don't try a higher voltage because the protection circuitry will shut down. I found this out by powering mine with an 18V solar panel that put out >18V when cold. As the solar panel heated up the voltage went down, and the PB started drawing power." I can verify that I am running the powerbook with a 12 volt 2 amp adapter now...in less them than it took(me) to remove two capacitors and plus I do not have to worry about my soldering or more troubleshooting. I do want to point out that in another post there is a picture from Armor Alley in April of 2018 which gives the incorrect pinout for the power supply (polarities are exactly reversed). I was going to post straight from the apple service manual (and what is working for me) but inexplicably, my uploading of images doesn't work right now. In regards to just replacing the innards of the power supply with a generic and wiring them as above. What are the disadvantage? If I used a 3 amp supply and just wired the battery and computer pins to 3 amps, wouldn't each component just draw the amperage needs (1.0 and 1.5 amps)? If this is true, then why does the original power supply have a 3 amp fuse and why did they take the time to put essentially 2 power supplies in the Apple branded power supply? If I cannot wire them to the same generic power supply, can I put a switch on the generic power supply that I filp into one position to supply the computer and the other to charge the battery (only one at a time)? Will I cause an explosion of the battery or are all the electronics in the computer and intelligent battery to regulate this? I cannot figure out why people are recapping and are not just cracking open the Apple power supply and exchanging the innards with a generic 12-18 volt adapter.
  9. I guess this is a 750 or 1000 watt supply....these are the only two connectors....on P2 pins 6 and 7 are green...I jumped them to black (only one at a time, not both at the same time) and nothing happened
  10. I spent the morning taking apart a 2.3 ghz DC G5 power mac this morning. It made no noises or lights what so ever and the power supply made no click when plugged into the wall. After searching online, I thought I could at least check the fuse. I can see one end of it with the other covered in grey glue and it is not accessible without tearing down the power supply through the goop. Not sure how or if to proceed. .
  11. "encased aluminum electrolytics"...that must be what I'm seeing...if you look at the non soldered end you can see the capacitor and this explains why the pad areas are so corroded on some of them. I used the capacitors from another screen that was damaged. Again...the LCD is right there and, not sure how easily can be damaged by the heat of the nearby soldering.(because it took me a while,sorry for the repost of a picture already at trading post). (
  12. The posts I found were actually in regards to capacitors on the non-duo capacitors and they are not tantalums. Because the back light was broken, but the LCD worked, I theorized the screen had been dropped. When I tapped on the capacitors (as you have pictured) two did indeed move (and the pads looked coroded). I was feeling bolder than my skills should have allowed and replaced the captors...I think it worked except in the process I over heated the lower corner of the screen and ruined the LCD. The lower left is blacked out with red dendrites on the non functioning portion.
  13. Sorry...I didn't look back far enough before posting. Will replace caps on LCD.(searching screen and account options..do not see an option to delete post either.. again I apologize)
  14. I have changed out a backlight from a bad LCD to a good looking LCD. It looks good for about 30-45 seconds...then flicker to stripes , then eventually to grey (no mouse). I am 90% sure it is on the LCD panel itself as the prior LCD panel worked fine..it just had a big red spot in the middle.Are capacitors on the LCD screen the source and do people replace these with any luck?