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  1. Sure! I'd lost the VID(1) connection from UE8 pin 3 to UC7 pin 3 and lifted the pad on UE8 pin 13 when removing the original IC. 30AWG wire-wrap wire used to re-connect the chips. Used hot-melt glue to secure to the board but wasn't as nice as I'd have liked - will go back to using cyanoacrylate (Super Glue) again, but I'd run out (i.e. left the top off of the bottle ...) when I was doing the fix and probably re-do if I take the mb out in the future. BR Jon.
  2. JonP

    Replacement fan for Mac SE

    @superjer2000, so far so good it seems to be OK - though haven't had a chance to take any internal thermal measurements so far. It's so far performing better than the original Elina, but that shouldn't be too difficult - removing the old fan explained why it was sooooooooooooo noisy, bearings very warn / lumpy; in fact the HDD is now the loudest sound!
  3. Many thanks for the pointers @techknight and @Bolle. UE8 was unhappy and legacy electrolyte leakage from the adjacent capacitor had messed up some of the fine traces than run under it. A new IC and a couple of jumper wires (in a tasteful purple colour scheme of course) have brought it back to life, nice and clear - yay! Just have to have a play with the horizontal alignment / vertical sizing to get the screen to fit a little better next.
  4. JonP

    Replacement fan for Mac SE

    Will do! It looks relatively closely spec'd with (my) original: Elina HDF6025L-12LB: 14 CFM, 24 dBA, 0.9 H2O (Based on currently available docs, they still sell this model!) Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX (@3000 RPM): 17.2 CFM, 19.3 dBA, 2.2 H2O Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX (@2400 RPM): 13.8 CFM, 14.5 dBA, 1.4 H2O Though, as always, the proof is actually putting it in and trying it out The other thing I've done to quieten things down is to add a small amount of sticky foam sheet to the top of the (original) Quantum HDD, which deadens the sound vibrations from that part nicely.
  5. JonP

    Replacement fan for Mac SE

    I'm looking at installing a Noctua (NF-A6x25 FLX 60mm dia) in a few week's time.
  6. Thanks for the pointer @techknight, I had a detailed look at UE8 (some dry looking joints)) and re-flowed it. This caused the video to awaken, though it was extremely noisy. Re-re-flowing seems to have finally killed off UE8 I'll get ordering tomorrow. Would you recommend the replacement of any others in that area whilst I'm at it? Cheers!
  7. I'm restoring a very dirty and tired SE/30 which refuses to display video, despite trying out all the options I could find! The machine boots with the 'happy' startup sound, accesses the HDD but no video output can be seen at all. I have: Recapped the motherboard Recapped the analogue board (and re-flowed dry solder joints etc.) Replaced U1 (SN74LS38N as per dead mac scrolls) on the analogue board Replaced Q1 (2N 3904 as per dead mac scrolls) on the CRT socket board With the screen brightness right towards maximum, raster lines can bee seen: , but at lower levels the lines aren't visible. I don't have a scope (though this could be a good excuse to get one!) to check the video signal from the motherboard to the analogue board, but checking the levels with a DMM gives: VIDEO - 3.12vDC HSYNC - 2.2 vDC VSYNC - 2.2vDC So, any ideas as to what should I look / check at next? Cheers, Jon.
  8. Yep! It resisted a surprising amount, but popped free in the end. Now to get it soaking in H2O2 at the weekend
  9. Thanks Alex, I'll be a little more forceful with it then ! BR Jon.
  10. I'm going to retrobrite one of my M0116 keyboards and am wondering whether the moulded, coloured Apple logo comes out or not? There's a small hole behind it in the keyboard frame but pressure in the hole doesn't seem to do much! Jon.
  11. Thanks all for the advice, I've recapped successfully - some glue came off easily, some didn't and was left in place. Now to work out why it still isn't completing start-up! BR Jon.
  12. I followed the twist method to remove the actual cans and then the remaining leg pieces desoldered easily. In fact, it was the axial capacitors that were a pain - it seems that the board holes were rather small for the size of the wire and they were a friction fit! I'll have a go at warming the glue later, though if the new tants can be fitted with it in place, might well leave it alone as there are an awful lots of fine traces running underneath!
  13. Having successfully de-capped and cleaned an SE/30 logic board, I notice that the original aluminium capacitors appear to have had some kind of glue under them (see image). It seems impervious to isopropyl alcohol and I'd prefer not to try and physically remove it in case I damage any tracks etc. Anyone seen this before and had any joy removing ??? Jon.