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  1. I've been working on an Apple //e mother board for a while with no luck. It worked when I got it, and all the ICs are socketed. So I tried to use it to diagnose another malfunctioning board. Unfortunately it didn't work, and when I reseated all the original ICs it stopped working all together (no video, no beep). Finally I decided to give it a run through the dishwasher (figured that I couldn't kill a dead board) and now I get 12 horizontal bars across my screen, each 8 pixels tall. This is the most life I've gotten out of this thing in months! So far I've replaced all the RAM on the machine, the MMU, all the ROMs (Video, EF, CD, and Keyboard), as well as the CPU. It's made no difference if the keyboard is plugged in or not, and I haven't been able to trip it into a diagnostic mode. On a lark I popped in a known bad RAM chip and got a series of As and block on the screen. I swopped out another good chip for bad and got Cs instead of As. Then I hit Control-Open Apple-Reset, and that put the Cs back to As. So I know that the computer can react to the keyboard, just not with known good RAM? Any ideas or suggestions?
  2. DistantStar001

    IIc and IIGS Key Caps - Interchangeable?

    Short answer, No. I tried this with an ESC key and found that not only the key itself was too tall for the //c board, but the orientation of the switch was vertical on that particular key as opposed to horizontal on the //c. I'm not sure if that holds true for the option key, but in either case, it will stick out noticeably from the rest of the board.
  3. So I have two Apple 3.5 inch Unidisk drives. One works fine, but the eject motor doesn't push the disc out all the way, but I can live with that. The other won't work at all. When I connect it to my //e and insert a boot disc, the light flashes, then nothing. I've tracked the issue to the analog card in the drive, as when I swapped the drive itself between the two, the failure remained with the defective board. I've been poking at it with multimeters for months now with no idea what I'm looking for or luck in tracing the problem beyond the board. I really don't want to throw this thing out. Aside from the high cost of replacement, this was part of my grandfather's //e, so there's a lot of sentimental value as well. So if anyone has a schematic, or any advice on how to trace the fault, I would be very grateful.
  4. DistantStar001

    Macintosh LC Takes Forever to Boot

    So I take it that my power supply is the current issue, and needs to be recapped ASAP. But I shouldn't wait too long on the motherboard since that's going to be a problem sooner or later, and it would be better to deal with it before it does.
  5. DistantStar001

    Macintosh LC Takes Forever to Boot

    It chimes after 10 to 20 minutes. I figured that I would have to recap something, but my equipment is limited, and I've never dealt with surface mount capacitors before. I haven't seen any sign of damage to the motherboard, but I know that the electrolytics used have a tendency to leak eventually. The Good news is that the board was new-old-stock in the early 2000s and has only been used sparingly since.
  6. DistantStar001

    Macintosh LC Takes Forever to Boot

    So I have a Macintosh LC III (in an LC II case) that takes about 10 to 20 minutes to power up and boot. Once it does, it seems to work fine, but if it goes more than a few hours without a power on, it just sits there spinning its fan for an increasingly extended period with nothing on the screen. I've tested the monitor with my DuoDock and it seems to work fine, so I know it's the computer. I'm guessing that it's a failing capacitor, the question is which one?
  7. DistantStar001

    Apple IIc Monitor Died

    To be clear, is it your monitor that won't power, or your //c?
  8. DistantStar001

    Apple Joystick Potentiometers

    I just searched Amazon for "150k ohm potentiometer" and found more than a few at that value. Don't Know if they will work, but it might be worth a look? To answer your original question on if these can be repaired, the answer is usually yes. However, you'll have to take them completely apart to clean each individual component with 99% alcohol and a q-tip before reassembling it. Spraying it from the outside doesn't always get into the mechanism.
  9. DistantStar001

    issues with 5.25 drive on a IIgs

    Another suggestion would be to check your belts, as well as any area where the drive is supposed to physically move for signs of damage. It also doesn't hurt to move these components around a little manually to make sure they're moving the way they're supposed to. You said the drive worked when disassembled, so it's possible that the case is physically obstructing motion in the drive in some fashion. If that happens, the timing might be thrown off, the disk might not spin, or the read head might get stuck, in any of these cases the drive won't read. The smoke could be coming from friction between a free moving and obstructed components burning the belt or lubricant. If this is the case, then all you need to do is find the obstruction, and clear it. Also, if it is the belt, then it might be a good idea to replace it, depending on the damage.
  10. DistantStar001

    issues with 5.25 drive on a IIgs

    I'd take it apart and check for a bad capacitor or exploded component. While I've never had the need to take my 5.25 in Uni apart, I have successfully repaired several Disk II drives over the past few months. If Gorgonops is correct, then there should be two boards in the drive, the first is the analog on top and a smaller one mounted to the back of the drive (given where you said the smoke was coming from, that latter would be my first guess). If something did blow, then it should be pretty obvious when you look at the boards. For a Disk II drive all the components are affordable, generic and very easy to replace. Should the same should hold true for your drive as well, then it's definitely worth fixing. If you're lucky (and have a soldering iron), then it shouldn't cost you more than a few Dolors, and about 20 minutes of your time.
  11. DistantStar001

    issues with 5.25 drive on a IIgs

    After reading your post again, I would suggest connecting the drive to your //c. Try booting from a DOS Master and cataloging a disk in the external drive to see if it reads. If not then try cleaning the drive head, and see if that makes a difference. The other thing I'll ask is, are your drives UniDisk or regular 5.25/3.5? The internals of these respective drives are the same, but the analog/controller cards are very different. My 5.25 is a UniDisk, but the 3.5 I use on my IIgs is just an 800k, and as I said I've had no problems reversing the order. This was done not just out of ignorance, but also convenience since I often switch the 800k drive between different computers. It's a long shot, but I have had issues with my 3.5 UniDisks playing nice with other computers, and drives. Neither of them ever got along with my //c, and one stopped working out right when attached to my IIgs (it was the sole drive at the time). The symptoms are almost exactly what you described from your 5.25. Since then, I've left the surviving 3.5 in Uni firmly attached to my //e, and I won't chain anything other than another 3.5 in Uni off of it. My 5.25 has been better, but if you're mix and matching, it could be an issue.
  12. DistantStar001

    issues with 5.25 drive on a IIgs

    Just looked it up, and you're right. Kinda weird, since I've been reversing it on my IIgs for years without a problem. Then again, I don't have that many 3.5 in disks and even fewer that are IIgs specific, so maybe that's why I haven't run into a problem yet.
  13. DistantStar001

    issues with 5.25 drive on a IIgs

    I think the daisy chain on the IIgs requires the 5.25 to be connected first, then the 3.5 after that.
  14. DistantStar001

    Apple Disk II repairs

    Try swapping the analog cards to see if you can recreate the malfunctions on the opposite drive. If so, then the problem is likely one or more of the ICs on the card, if the malfunctions persist regardless of the card, then it's a mechanical issue with the drive. Also, if you can reproduce the issues with this method, and you have another working drive, try the same procedure with it, and also try swapping the ICs on the card to isolate the defective component.
  15. Your errors might be coming from your laptop. If the system makes any noise, that can interfere with casette line. Computers can be chatty little things, system alerts, emails, messaging and chat alerts should all be silenced when connected to your //e. Another thing to do is adjust the volume. If it's too loud, the //e might ignore it as interference, too quiet, and the //e won't "hear" it at all. This might be why your phone didn't work. Generally, on portable devices, when you plug something into the headphone jack, it turns the volume down to prevent hurting your ears. You need to manually turn the volume all the way up for it for the //e. just remember to turn it down again when you're done. Apple devices will save the max volume as default the next time you plug in a set of earbuds. As to why some disc images would work with an emulator and not your //e, this could also be a processor issue. Most emulators are set up to emulate a 6502 (with standard ROMs) by default, where your enhanced //e has a 65C02. A quick check would be if you boot up the emulator and get "Apple ][" (unenhanced) as opposed to "Apple //e" (enhanced). Generally, you can change this in the setting for your emulator.