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About Iesca

  • Birthday March 25

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    Los Angeles, CA

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  1. Iesca

    Macintosh Plus Chirping Noise

    I've had the chirping for awhile now in my Plus, it's driving me nuts. I've replaced so many components on the analog board, caps, resistors, diodes, transistors, ICs; I'm just at a loss. Even the axial caps on the logic board. Am I just gonna have to bite the bullet and buy one of those new flybacks for $100? And yet, when I completely disconnect the crt from the analog board, it continues to chirp.... As for the Plus's vinyl protector, I bought the plastic snaps recommended at some point in another thread, and they work great! (After cleaning off the tape residue)
  2. Has anybody rebuilt an iBook G4 battery pack? From the following article, opening the iBook G3's battery pack is relatively straightforward: https://www.instructables.com/id/Apple-Ibook-G3-battery-repair/ But no such luck for the G4's battery pack, which is sealed shut, rather closed with screws. If anybody has any advice on opening one, please let me know!
  3. Iesca

    Apple Hard Disk 20 repair: A success story

    Saved you both the trouble! HD20 Rodime Controller Board Electrolytic Capacitor List C38: 47µf 16v C41: 10µf 35v C42: 10µf 35v C43: 47µf 16v C46: 10µf 35v C48: 47µf 16v C49: 47µf 16v C50: 47µf 16v Total: 3X 10µf 35v 5X 47µf 16v (PS. I found HD Diag!)
  4. I just received these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Macintosh-128k-512k-Plus-Classic-SE-analog-board-Fasteners-Pushpin/264047221390 They appear to be very similar to the ones mentioned by @gpbonneau above. The ones I bought (which ship from the Netherlands) worked great with my Plus, and you don't need to buy a hundred of them at once!
  5. In searching around I found this document: http://www.bitsavers.org/pdf/apple/service/PN_072-0228_Apple_Service_Technical_Procedures_Macintosh_Family_Volume_One-Mar_1992.pdf On page 390 in the pdf, a table refers to the diagram on the previous page; item no. 2, part number 830-0270 "Rivet, Nylon Snap-In, Black" So that's what it was called internally anyway, maybe that will help! Nothing really comes up with a cursory google.
  6. Iesca

    M0110A Repair

    I haven't, I don't actually have a meter to check with. But the whole keyboard is dead, not just the ones I installed.
  7. Iesca

    M0110A Repair

    A problem regarding my M0110A Mac Plus Keyboard... In anticipation of some new keyswitches I had ordered, I had taken out the broken keyswitches, which of course required some desoldering. After doing so, I managed to make one physically functional keyswitch out of the bits from the three I had removed, and I reinstalled it. Afterwards however, the keyboard stopped responding at all when hooked up to the Mac. I thought that maybe it was because a couple keyswitches were still missing from the board, so when the new ones arrived I installed them, as well as did a thorough cleaning of the board itself. (A couple of the pads broke slightly in the process of preparing them for new switches, but the important bits are still connected to the traces; as best as I can recollect, the problem started before I had done this). Any ideas what may be the issue? Larry Pina suggests that, in the case of a complete failure, static may have killed the controller chip... (And just to allay any fear, I have only used a genuine keyboard connector, not a phone cable!) I really don't want to have to buy another keyboard at $60+ a pop. Any advice is appreciated!
  8. Congrats! Scary when something breaks unexpectedly, but a great relief if you were able to fix it again.
  9. Iesca

    Powerbook 540c won't startup

    Also, if anyone repairing one of these suspects they may need a new fuse but don't know what to replace it with, I've taken out the one from my dead supply just to check. I managed to destroy the fuse attempting to remove the lead caps from the fuse itself, but it was necessary in order to see the fuse code on the end. (Note to self: do not twist from both ends; but hey I guess it wasn't dead! The lead caps are not soldered onto the fuse, it's just a tight fit.) Fuse Code: F 3.15A H 250V [Fast Acting ("Flink") 3.15 Amp "High Breaking Capacity" 250 Volts] Dimensions: 20mm Length x 5mm Diameter (technically a hair under 20mm Length, as I measured mine) Fortunately these fuses seem to be readily available, so even if you break yours like I did, it can be inexpensively replaced: Pack of 5 from Amazon Just remember to keep those lead caps!!!
  10. Iesca

    Powerbook 540c won't startup

    Well, after all was said and done, a working power brick showed up on ebay for reasonable $$ so I just nabbed that and the 540c has been back to life ever since. However, the "new" brick will surely die as well at some point, and so barring a repair attempt with that one as well, I will have to keep in mind jimjimx's suggestion! jimjimx, if you get a chance, a wiring diagram would be very interesting to see! This is the relevant page from the PB service source manual, for the curious:
  11. Iesca

    Apple Hard Disk 20 repair: A success story

    Resurrecting a slightly old topic, but Dog Cow, is their a resource for downloading HD Diag? I found a copy of Scavenger Mac, which I've uploaded to the Garden for safe-keeping, but I recently acquired an HD 20 myself and may want to play around with HD Diag if lubrication doesn't work. Although it does spin up after having manually turned the spindle, it does not seem to want to initialize; I don't know if this is due to the stepper motor or bad blocks or what..
  12. Iesca

    Floppy Disk Drive Read Head Repair

    Are these something that can be procured on their own, or do they need to be sourced from another floppy drive?
  13. After a diskette completely jammed in the floppy drive, I was forced to pry it out with pliers. Unfortunately, such a procedure is far from delicate, and the top drive head was damaged and put out of place. (Actually, I managed to damage the head before even attempting the pliers; they were simply a last resort..) Attached are photos of its current state. Shoulda-woulda-coulda, the deed is done; is it repairable, or is it time for a replacement? I should say, the drive was never ejecting properly in the first place, even after cleaning and relubricating, as well as replacing the drive motor gear. I would get the disk inserting and ejecting seemingly fine when out of the machine, but the moment I fastened it in its bracket and installed in the Mac, the drive would never eject on its own without helping it with tweezers or similar. Then it just jammed up. :\ Thank you!
  14. Iesca

    Powerbook 540c won't startup

    Also note that C and D are shorted in various ways! C to an SMD cap, and D to the lead of a diode found on the top-side.
  15. Iesca

    Powerbook 540c won't startup

    So, despite the fact that my repair attempt was ultimately unsuccessful, here are some photos I took of the process. First we have the smaller caps of the board, all of which were in some state of decay, though only one had actually "popped." (These were replaced with same or similar values from Fry's Electronics.) After replacing those did not fix the power supply, I replaced the filter caps. Here are the originals, as well as the replacements, which I got from DigiKey. Here are some pictures of the boards. First is the main board, with pertinent joints highlighted. A and B are the 330µf 25v caps, C and D the 100µf 25v, and G and H the 100µf 200v filter caps. (Note that A has been removed already in this picture.) E highlights the mounting joints of the vertically mounted board that holds the 47µf 25v cap. F is a hook-jointed lead from a ceramic cap on the top side of the board that mounts to the heat sink (bent to the left in the photo). Here are pics of the vertically mounted board with the 47µf 25v cap. Note the orientation of the cap with negative lead towards the notch on the right; it is not marked on the silk screen. (It is the left-hand pin on the reverse side.) While my effort ended in failure, hopefully these pics will be of some aid to people in the future!