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Tim S

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  1. Tim S

    Plugged Parallel into SCSI hard drive

    Did the same thing accidentally in the past on an Amiga 2000. Blew a resistor and toasted some traces = not good.
  2. Tim S

    Ethertalk crossover cable

    I am dealing with this right now and could not get a connection between my CC Mystique and Core2duo MacBook using a x-over cable. I can ping back and forth but could never get it to connect in chooser. Next thing I am going to try is going through a router with a non-x-over cable.
  3. Probably in need of a cap kit and a good adjustment afterword. Depending on it use the tube may be getting tired. -- Both not trivial projects to undertake.
  4. Tim S

    My Color Classic Mystic Journey

    I will try to locate my list of caps that I made. I might decide to put together a kit to put on Ebay.
  5. I've spent a good part of the last year of weekends restoring my Color Classic Mystic. I am calling it done for now and all is working except for the stereo mod which works but I am not yet getting full volume from the added 2nd speaker. When I acquired the machine someone had already installed the LC575 board but it wasn't working and wouldn't boot. This was my first Mac and I had to learn a lot along the way. Much credit to all here @ 68kmla! The following is a list of what has been done. This is not meant as a brag but a celebration since I put so much time into this. It was a labor of love since I could never afford a Macintosh back in the day. LC575 motherboard cleaned and re-capped with all new smd capacitors. Full 68040@33mhz CPU installed with heatsink. 128 mb simm installed so that total mem is now 132mb. Analog board recapped completely with 105c Nichicon high-quality capacitors with all caps the same size and diameter as originals. Picture is now bright and vibrant. VGA mod done to analog board. I was going to do the "right-way" mod but read that some were having pincushion adjustment/size issues so I went with the VGA mod since I replaced all caps. Picture adjusts nearly perfect. Stereo mod done to analog board. Works but I have some volume issues on the additional speaker that I need to fix. Hard disk replace with SD2SCSI with a SD 32gb sd-card partitioned into a <4gb boot HFS partion (for boot reasons - had to learn this!), 4gb HFS Utilities partion , 2ea. 8gb HFS+ partitions and whatever was left as an additional HFS+ partition. Stock case fan clean and lubricated - nice and quite and original. Motherboard battery replaced with replaceable AA battery pack mounted in a remote location. Floppy drive disassembled, cleaned and lubricated.case was completely stripped down. Everything cleaned and plastics lightly retro-brighted. External CD-ROM and external HD added. Running OS8.1, probably alot of other stuff that I forgot.
  6. Tim S

    Stereo Mod for Color Classic

    Thanks for the input. I don't have facebook so for now I am kinda stuck here. A schematic would help also so I will start to dig online but I am still really taking a stab in the dark on this thing. I might just go with having the 2 speakers even if the volume from one is reduced - at least it kinda works! :\
  7. I recently added a SD2SCSI with a 32gb micro-sd to my Color Classic with LC575 mystic upgrade. Setup 4 virtual drives. * Drive 1 partitioned into 2ea. 4gb partitions (shows around 3.9gb each). * Drive 2,3 partitioned as 8gb (shows around 7.9gb) * Drive 4 portioned with what was left out of the 32gb sd, around 5.6gb if I remember right. I can copy the OS8.1 image from an external hard-disk to either of the 4gb partitions and then it will mount just fine but when copied to any of the other larger drives it copies fine but will not mount and ends in an error. I thought that OS8.1 wasn't limited to 4gb partitions or is this trouble/limitation due to the LC575 motherboard? Mac newbie here.
  8. Tim S

    Color Classic retrobrighting

    I also found in the past using the saran wrap was a bad idea. Total immersion delivers the best results. One more thing, try to pop-out the apple logo as this process may damage it. Previous experience but thankfully not to my prized CC Mystic.
  9. Tim S

    Stereo Mod for Color Classic

    UPDATE: Well, I completed the mod as described in the above link mentioned in my initial post. It does work with the speaker connected to the new audio amp but the volume is way reduced for some reason. I rechecked my work and everything is correct so I am thinking that maybe in these instruction the locations for some of the surface mount components (caps, resistors) got somehow reversed or something? It seem strange that I would get audio output okay but at such a reduced volume. Without a schematic (or maybe even with one) I am now totally lost at what to try. So close yet so far. It would be nice to get this sorted and then can call this project complete. Ideas?
  10. Thank you for taking the time to do the great write-up. It explains things very well. I'm am thinking now that I should just replace the cap that I pulled off of the pcb with the same value even if it differs from the known list. I am very careful when I un-solder caps one at a time and pay close attention to the value. Perhaps this one was a different value for a reason or perhaps it was just a mistake but if it was a mistake it has lived it whole life so far with that value and seemed to operate fine. I will try to research a little more online and wait to see if someone can actually verify the value on their own board.
  11. Tim S

    Stereo Mod for Color Classic

    Awesome information!
  12. Thanks for the reply. I realize that I can up the voltage rating but I was surprised that the value of the capacitor was actually so much different. 47uf (found on my analog pcb) instead of the 100uf value that was listed on the parts list that I found here. Seems like quite a bit of difference. I just wanted to confirm with someone that may be able to check the actually value that they have on their CC Analog PCB.
  13. Tim S

    Stereo Mod for Color Classic

    Has anyone ever done this mod??
  14. Tim S

    Classic II beyond repair?

    I read of some replacing the smd caps with tantalums but please do your own research to confirm this. Maybe with using radial tantalums it might be easier to find new points to solder them to that have continuity with the old spots that lifted.
  15. I'm doing a re-cap of my Color Classic Analog PCB. While removing the old caps one capacitor, CP34 was 47uf@25v and not 100uf@25v as listed on the master parts list found here and on other Macintosh sites. Any opinions on this? Could anyone please take a peek at their machine and confirm what this value should be? Thanks!