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CVKealey

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Everything posted by CVKealey

  1. So, I used to collect all manner of old computers, mostly Macs but some others as well. Given the need to minimize storage space and maximize nostalgia, I've decided to pare my collection down to compact Macs only. The shelving in my storage area allows 6 per shelf with space for keyboards, mice, etc., so if I aim for one good example of each model of compact, I shouldn't need more than a couple shelves. So far, I have: an original Mac (512k, I think) that was upgraded to a Plus SE FD/HD SE/30 Macintosh Classic Macintosh Classic II Color Classic (upgraded to a Mystic) Pretty much all of them need to be recapped, which I hope to work on as an exercise to teach my son how to solder. The question I've come to, though, is that few of these have any kind of network connectivity (the SE/30 and CC have ethernet, but no others), so I'll need to keep around some other machine for the purpose of downloading software, creating floppy disks, etc. To fill that need, I currently have an LCIII, a Powerbook G3 Lombard and a couple G3 iMacs (ingido, 2001). Obviously, the PBG3 or iMacs better go along with the "compactness" of the collection, but I feel like I'd run into some situation where they wouldn't work. For example, testing some 68k-based applications may not work, or I may not be able to format some disks. The LCIII would take up a bit more space than the PBG3 (probably about the same space as the iMacs, factoring in the monitor), but being a 68k processor, I feel like there's less chance of compatibility issues. And, the other consequence is that this, too will need to be recapped (I redid the power supply a few years back, but haven't touched the logic board). So, for those of you that curate compact collections, how important is it to keep a "transitional" or "translational" machine around, and would something with a 68k CPU be a better choice than the others for any particular reason?
  2. Just to clarify, I'm not talking about getting another machine, just deciding which of my current machines would be best to keep and which I can let go. Not that any of the ones I'm considering selling off have much in terms of value. And somewhere, I think I still have an Asante LocalTalk-to-ethernet adapter, which is probably just as good an option for connecting any of the compacts.
  3. I guess this is kind of what I was getting at. I'm looking at the situation like a prepper...I want something that will allow me to retrieve stuff from or write things to old (400k) disks or SCSI drives, or just about anything else. It's probably not going to be just one machine, so I need to justify (to others in the house who shall not be named) why I need to keep "all those old computers" around.
  4. CVKealey

    Rear I/O panel for "Mystic" CC?

    I've got a Color Classic that I "Mystic"-ized a long time ago. At the time (~2010, I think?) the current wisdom on handling the rear I/O panel was to get an LC575 panel and basically merge it with the original CC panel. I have both. The problem was that life got in the way and I never finished that. Now, I still have the parts, but not the time and not the patience or skill to make it look good. So, is there anyone out there that has successfully done this (combined the two I/O panels into one that fits as the original does)? If so, would you be willing to do it again, and if so, what would this cost? Alternately, I saw something pop up about someone 3D printing Mystic I/O panels, but now I can't seem to find it. While I'd prefer it look as original as possible, the convenience of just popping on a piece that's specifically designed to do the job has its appeal.
  5. CVKealey

    Rear I/O panel for "Mystic" CC?

    Both of them look like just cut-down versions of the 575 panel with screw holes added. So, I should be able to achieve the same thing with a coping saw, drill press and a steady hand. I've got two out of the three.
  6. CVKealey

    Rear I/O panel for "Mystic" CC?

    Yeah, I found that right after posting my message. Not quite worth $45 to me, esp. if I've got the 575 panel that I can shave down to the right size.
  7. It's been a LOOOOONG time since I messed with CRTs or tube TVs, but the noise you're referring to sounds like the flyback transformer. Usually the noise is accompanied by a flicker or other visible distortion, but not always. Way back in the day, I had a client with a brand new (at the time) bondi iMac where they complained of this type of noise. In that case, there weren't any visible cues, and I couldn't hear anything peculiar, although the client could (she was an elderly librarian, so probably much more attuned to hearing noise than I was). In any event, Apple sent a replacement and had us ship back the "bad" one. In their investigation (back when they actually did that) they found that it was a defective transformer.
  8. Going through a couple boxes of old hard drives, I found two Quantum Viking drives, model # VK42S493. Specs I found online indicate these are 4.2 GB and appear to have been originally sold by/packaged in Compaq PCs. I'm fairly certain at least one of them came out of a PowerMac (7200 or 7300, I think). I plugged them into an external SCSI enclosure connected to my beige G3 DT (running 9.2.1) and Drive Setup sees them, but lists them as "unsupported". I can't initialize them, mount them, or anything else. Any ideas on whether these are compatible/can be used in SCSI-based Macs?
  9. CVKealey

    Quantum Viking 42S493 SCSI drive "unsupported"?

    OK, Lido saw them and started initializing one, but then it started the click of death and got really (really) warm. Haven't tried the other yet, but get the feeling the results will be the same and they'll both go into my pile of dead drives.
  10. CVKealey

    Quantum Viking 42S493 SCSI drive "unsupported"?

    Thanks, I'll give this a try tonight!
  11. CVKealey

    Powerbook 180c chime, then death chime

    If you're the "third time's a charm" type, I have a 180C that's in parts. The screen is in good physical condition, but the plastics are shot (all the brass standoffs for the screws holding it together are separated from the panels). I do have the proper AC adapter (US version, if that matters). I don't think it's got a HDD in it currently. If you're willing to cover the shipping to wherever you are, it's yours. PM me if interested. -Chad
  12. CVKealey

    a nice clamshell

    What's the model/part # of the adapter you want/need? I have one that (I think) came with a Bronze G3 PowerBook that had a drinking problem (in that its owner thought they should make it drink a latte). As far as I know, it (the adapter, not the G3) works, but I'm not sure it's the same specs as the iBook's AC adapter. I'll check the PN tonight.
  13. CVKealey

    Tour of Macintosh Audio Cassette

    Found the box with my dad's old Plus (originally either a 128k or 512k, not sure which) and buried in the original accessories box was this little gem. Unfortunately, I don't think I have a working cassette player to listen to it.
  14. CVKealey

    Hard Disk 20

    More of a discovery than a conquest, but apparently at some point I acquired an HD20. Just found it in a box this morning. Seems to spin up (sounds like the drive spinning), but is not recognized by my Classic II. I think this might be the one my dad bought shortly after he got the 512k in 1984 and before he had it upgraded to a Plus.
  15. CVKealey

    Hard Disk 20

    Thanks for the walk through. I cleaned this out, lubed the motor, and this spun up and worked like new!
  16. Unearthed my box of old Powerbooks yesterday and tried starting them up. One that did not respond well is a PB180c (the only one I have of that model). Basically, I plug in the AC adapter, wait 30 seconds or so and then press the power button. There's the startup chime, and the screen lights for about half a second, then there's a noise like a relay clicking (2 or 3 clicks) coming from the right rear corner of the base (around where the adapter plugs in). If I try pressing the power button again, nothing. Unplug, plug in, wait 30 seconds, press power, startup chime, click-click(-click), black screen. This worked when I put it in the box (~7-9 years ago?). Also, somewhere I got a hold of a PB190, but I don't appear to have an AC adapter for it. This doesn't use the same brick as the other PB1xx series, correct?
  17. On a related note, does anyone know if the PB145b or 170 display is compatible with the PB180c base? Obviously, it wouldn't be in color, but at least as a way to verify the rest of the components in the base.
  18. Ok, I started pulling this apart to troubleshoot it. With the whole top section (keyboard, screen, etc) disconnected, it appears to power on just fine. The drive spins up, sounds like it's booting normally, but with no video, I can't tell for sure. I suspect the the problem is the backlight driver board (I don't think that's the actual name, but there's a pic below) or the backlight itself. The clicking seems to come after the backlight is on for more than about a second. Of course, in the process of disassembling it, the screw mounts for the hinges ripped out of the lid panel, so I'm thinking it may be a better use of time to just part this thing out. There's a 200 MB HDD, 4 MB RAM board, basically the whole bottom half (including a modem) that appears to work just fine. The other option is to seek out a video adapter and hook it up that way. Picture of problem board: https://www.flickr.com/gp/46004541@N02/538811
  19. CVKealey

    M2115 service manual?

    Actually, I found the original drives that came out of the enclosures which have the appropriate header for the ID selector switch. What I was hoping to use the enclosure for is testing some 2.5" SCSI drives. I have the correct 50-pin-to-34-pin adapter board, and I believe have the ID jumpers set correctly to make the drive show up as ID 2, but they weren't showing up at all. I'm not sure if the controller in the M2115 is toast, but now that I've found the right drive, I can verify if that's the case or not.
  20. CVKealey

    M2115 service manual?

    Anyone happen to have a service manual for the M2115 external SCSI HDD? I have two of them I've reassembled from pieces and can't seem to get them to work. The problem is that I can't seem to figure out where the scsi ID switch connects. I think it should connect to the drive itself, but can't see where. Any help would be appreciated.
  21. CVKealey

    Hard Disk 20

    I have some lightweight synthetic air-tool oil that should probably work. I'll have to crack it open, clean out the 33 years of accumulated dust and see if I can bring it back to life. I also discovered in another box what appears to be the Rodime drive from another HD20. Well, I guess it may not be from an HD20 as I'm sure that drive was used elsewhere.
  22. CVKealey

    Seriously corroded Macintosh color classic

    Not to hijack the thread, but what "rear piece" are you looking for? Something external (the I/O panel) or something internal?
  23. Trying to test my CC's original board, I popped some RAM and VRAM into it and slid it into the chassis. Flipped the power switch, then hit the power button on the keyboard and... nothing. Crickets. Waited a few more minutes and tried the power button again, still nothing. Thing is, I don't have a proper PRAM battery for it, so I'm thinking that may be the issue. Although I know newer Mac's (PowerMacs, anyway) will power on without that battery.
  24. Actually, on further inspection, there appears to be a cap (C9) missing from the board. That's probably why it won't power on.
  25. CVKealey

    Seriously corroded Macintosh color classic

    Sent you a PM...I may have a board for you.
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