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CVKealey

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  1. a nice clamshell

    What's the model/part # of the adapter you want/need? I have one that (I think) came with a Bronze G3 PowerBook that had a drinking problem (in that its owner thought they should make it drink a latte). As far as I know, it (the adapter, not the G3) works, but I'm not sure it's the same specs as the iBook's AC adapter. I'll check the PN tonight.
  2. Hard Disk 20

    Thanks for the walk through. I cleaned this out, lubed the motor, and this spun up and worked like new!
  3. Tour of Macintosh Audio Cassette

    Found the box with my dad's old Plus (originally either a 128k or 512k, not sure which) and buried in the original accessories box was this little gem. Unfortunately, I don't think I have a working cassette player to listen to it.
  4. On a related note, does anyone know if the PB145b or 170 display is compatible with the PB180c base? Obviously, it wouldn't be in color, but at least as a way to verify the rest of the components in the base.
  5. Ok, I started pulling this apart to troubleshoot it. With the whole top section (keyboard, screen, etc) disconnected, it appears to power on just fine. The drive spins up, sounds like it's booting normally, but with no video, I can't tell for sure. I suspect the the problem is the backlight driver board (I don't think that's the actual name, but there's a pic below) or the backlight itself. The clicking seems to come after the backlight is on for more than about a second. Of course, in the process of disassembling it, the screw mounts for the hinges ripped out of the lid panel, so I'm thinking it may be a better use of time to just part this thing out. There's a 200 MB HDD, 4 MB RAM board, basically the whole bottom half (including a modem) that appears to work just fine. The other option is to seek out a video adapter and hook it up that way. Picture of problem board: https://www.flickr.com/gp/46004541@N02/538811
  6. M2115 service manual?

    Actually, I found the original drives that came out of the enclosures which have the appropriate header for the ID selector switch. What I was hoping to use the enclosure for is testing some 2.5" SCSI drives. I have the correct 50-pin-to-34-pin adapter board, and I believe have the ID jumpers set correctly to make the drive show up as ID 2, but they weren't showing up at all. I'm not sure if the controller in the M2115 is toast, but now that I've found the right drive, I can verify if that's the case or not.
  7. Hard Disk 20

    I have some lightweight synthetic air-tool oil that should probably work. I'll have to crack it open, clean out the 33 years of accumulated dust and see if I can bring it back to life. I also discovered in another box what appears to be the Rodime drive from another HD20. Well, I guess it may not be from an HD20 as I'm sure that drive was used elsewhere.
  8. M2115 service manual?

    Anyone happen to have a service manual for the M2115 external SCSI HDD? I have two of them I've reassembled from pieces and can't seem to get them to work. The problem is that I can't seem to figure out where the scsi ID switch connects. I think it should connect to the drive itself, but can't see where. Any help would be appreciated.
  9. Seriously corroded Macintosh color classic

    Not to hijack the thread, but what "rear piece" are you looking for? Something external (the I/O panel) or something internal?
  10. Actually, on further inspection, there appears to be a cap (C9) missing from the board. That's probably why it won't power on.
  11. Trying to test my CC's original board, I popped some RAM and VRAM into it and slid it into the chassis. Flipped the power switch, then hit the power button on the keyboard and... nothing. Crickets. Waited a few more minutes and tried the power button again, still nothing. Thing is, I don't have a proper PRAM battery for it, so I'm thinking that may be the issue. Although I know newer Mac's (PowerMacs, anyway) will power on without that battery.
  12. Hard Disk 20

    More of a discovery than a conquest, but apparently at some point I acquired an HD20. Just found it in a box this morning. Seems to spin up (sounds like the drive spinning), but is not recognized by my Classic II. I think this might be the one my dad bought shortly after he got the 512k in 1984 and before he had it upgraded to a Plus.
  13. Seriously corroded Macintosh color classic

    Sent you a PM...I may have a board for you.
  14. If you could only have one: SE/30 or Mystic CC?

    I'm hatching a plan to keep 'em both, but it looks like the SE/30 definitely has some capacitor issues (see below). My solder-fu is a bit rusty, so I'm not sure I want to do it myself or farm it out. Anyone know what the going rate is for an SE/30 board? And can I assume the caps on the analog/display control board susceptible to the same issue? The Mystic CC starts up fine (well, it took two power cycles for the drive to spin up), but the display seems to be a little off. Almost like the contrast or brightness is shifting on its own. I don't remember that from before, but I probably didn't do such a clean job on the VGA conversion. There don't seem to be any leaking caps on the logic board, but there may be elsewhere. Also, the cage for the CPU cooler broke into 3 pieces, so if I want to use that (I don't know if it's standard on the 575 board or an aftermarket), I'll have to fabricate a new one.
  15. Are these rare?

    Here's the front of it. There are RJ45 and RG58 coax connections on the lower end. The cable end is 8-pin LocalTalk and the coiled wire connects to the ADB port for power and has an ADB passthrough port as well.
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