Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About corgski

  • Birthday November 8

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Pittsburgh, PA, USA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. corgski

    Burning CDs for Performa 637CD

    Which one would I need? When I checked ebay for comm slot cards it looked like it was all modems.
  2. corgski

    Burning CDs for Performa 637CD

    I've got tiger on my G5 and so far I'm just trying to burn ISOs and bin/cues of old CDs I ripped and got rid of back in my decluttering days. They'll read fine on my iMac G3 which is running 9.1 but barely or not at all on my 637CD, which is why I'm wondering if it's the brand of media. Pressed CDs (both HFS only and hybrid) read fine. If I could get my 6400 running I'd just drop a PCI ethernet card in and use it as a localtalk bridge to bypass needing CDs altogether but sadly I have no systems that can network with the 637 right now.
  3. Hey! Does anyone know of CD brands or burners that are more likely to produce discs that can read by these old 2x drives? I have some Sony 700MB CD-Rs which are extremely hit and miss for me but I don't know if Memorex or Vivitar or some other brand works better.
  4. Today was a good day. First, an ebay order for six Zip 250 disks came in and to my surprise they were still shrinkwrapped. I popped one in my USB zip drive and my iMac had no problem reading them, which means I can now try to recover all the data off my old zip disks. Second, I went and picked up a craigslist find - a Performa 637CD in working condition with remarkably intact and only slightly yellowed case plastics (as compared to my Performa 6200CD which is all but crumbling,) plus a bunch of software (including kid pix yay!) and an original microphone! I paid $90 for the lot which is a little on the high end but worth it for the unbroken case alone in my opinion. As my boyfriend said, my computer collection expands to fill my desk. Not pictured are all the systems in need of work stacked underneath it however.
  5. All I did with mine when I took the bottom case off to get at the PRAM battery was tilt it forward. It hung up on the same clip on mine too and when it let loose it sounded scary but nothing was broken. You might wanna try sliding a narrow spudger in there right in front of the clip to ease it along a little bit.
  6. So the pram trick didn't work, but curiously leaving it on in sleep mode overnight did. Although it also somehow rendered the hard disk unbootable and unreadable by the restore CD. A reformat and reinstall later and it's up and running just fine, or at least as fine as an 18 year old system with leaky caps (one of the small caps on the right side of the PAV board right by the front of the case has a trail of corrosion, and the big dude on that side is looking bulgy) and a blown right speaker can be. The model, btw, is iMac DV (Summer 2000). I'm trying to decide whether it's worth it to recap the PAV board or just replace it with one of the refurb boards here: https://www.dvwarehouse.com/iMac--G3-Analog-Video-Board-c-584.html Which board would I need if I were to do that? Also, are there any preferred CF to IDE adapters/cards for these machines if I were to replace the hard disk, since it's obviously failing?
  7. I had a similar issue, a SATA 3 SSD would only be recognized in one slot and the G5 wouldn't boot from it at all, I think that in general SATA 3 SSDs are kinda picky, I had an old SATA 1 PC that also wouldn't see the SSD.
  8. Hey y'all, I have an indigo iMac G3 that's exhibiting a weird issue on startup. I pulled it out of storage after being powered down for ~6 years and the PRAM battery was dead as a doornail - the startup would hang just after the chime with a black screen and the system was completely non-responsive. So I replaced the PRAM battery and now I'm having a different issue. The boot will still hang with no video output, but now the reset button works so I can press that and then immediately press and hold the interrupt button on the side to force it into open firmware. From there I get a display and can type mac-boot and all is well. Any ideas? I'm tempted to just re-cap the analog board, but I've not worked around any CRT larger than a Macintosh Plus before.