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superjer2000

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  1. superjer2000

    Apple Hard Disk 20SC Recapping - SONY CR-43 PSU

    I think it is. The reviews I saw on the Hakko noted that it clogs and needs to be cleaned regularly. No issue with this guy. I've done probably 30 boards and loved this unit more and more each time.
  2. superjer2000

    Apple Hard Disk 20SC Recapping - SONY CR-43 PSU

    @JDW You have to try this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJSG/ Get some extra nozzles as well as they only last for maybe 10 recaps (but they are cheap). I know you said you like the desoldering using braid, but I bought this and never looked back. It's too big for removing through-hole caps on logic boards, but for analog boards (including what you did), it does a cleaner job in about 1/10 the time. I can remove all of the caps from a Plus analog board leaving perfectly clean holes in about 5-10 minutes. I had looked at getting a Hakko vacuum desoldering gun but I think this is better - It never clogs as you just squeeze out the sucked up solder. I first go around and add some flux to all of the joints I'm going to remove and then it's literally 5 seconds per capacitor leg.
  3. superjer2000

    SE/30 Power Supply: Recap or ATX?

    At a really quick glance it looks good. You should be able to verify your getting the right parts by making sure what you put into mouser returns the same parts as the screen shots of my order I included. This is again assuming there was only one version of the Astec PSU. I'll be doing another in the next couple of weeks as I just grabbed an SE/30 with an Astec. Very clean machine with just a bit of cap leakage on the motherboard. I always order about 5 to 10 x the number of caps I need Build an inventory and prices go down substantially with 10x of a single item with Mouser.
  4. superjer2000

    Issue installing SCSI2SD into Classic

    This reminds me of a problem I had with a Classic that I can't fully recall how I fixed. I am pretty sure that mine was stuck on a certain date (say 1/1/1904 or whatever) and whenever I changed it, it would either not let me change it, or revert back right away (I can't remember which). I don't think the seconds counted up either. I think I had swapped the RTC chip but I can't recall if that fixed it, or if it was just a broken trace. I'm kind of thinking the latter as I don't have another Classic logic board with a bad RTC.
  5. superjer2000

    SE/30 Power Supply: Recap or ATX?

    It's funny you say that as I have noticed the same thing - I think it's a matter of keeping everything straight with work, family, projects at home and then these side computer projects. There is a lot more going on than when I was young and could seemingly remember everything. I've taken to writing down notes on any of the more complex projects I work on, including how I've troubleshooted particular problems as otherwise when I try to think back to it weeks or months later, it's just fragments. I keep an Apple IIe on my desk to document these items.
  6. superjer2000

    SE/30 Power Supply: Recap or ATX?

    I keep meaning to clean up the lists I've made and post them as I've done quite a few analog board/PSU recaps that I've made lists for. I will say overall I've had good luck with all of the Astec PSUs I've encountered and recapped across a number of Macs.
  7. superjer2000

    SE/30 Power Supply: Recap or ATX?

    @jessenator I've had no issues recapping Astec PSUs in the SE and SE/30 and I think they are good power supplies. I'm not sure there is any real evidence that their "failure rates have been historically higher." - If there is a pre-existing problem just recapping might not fix the particular issue but I do it as preventative maintenance. Voltages have been rock solid afterwards Attached is the list I compiled along with the particular mouser caps I used. I found it pretty easy to work on and there aren't that many caps so it wasn't that expensive either. You'll probably want to make sure the caps are the same in case there are different versions of the PSU (and bear in the mind the Apple PSU pictured at the top of this thread looks similar to the Astec on the outside). Astec PSU.xlsx I've also done the Seasonic retrofit. Recapping was definitely easier but if you're going to be running a half height 3.5" drive and more than just an Ethernet card, the Seasonic is probably a better choice. It's harder to find the Seasonics at a reasonable price now though.
  8. superjer2000

    3D-Printed Objects

    This is what I use. They are still available. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001Q4YGQS/
  9. You beat me. I was bidding on this one as well and let out a few choice expletives when your bid came in. Happy someone here got it!!
  10. superjer2000

    Printing on ImageWriter II from Apple IIGS

    Awesome!! There is something great about hearing these machines print. My wife almost had me committed when the big box of tractor feed paper showed up from Amazon.
  11. superjer2000

    Printing on ImageWriter II from Apple IIGS

    Just to be sure, when you press the select button on the printer I think there are two green lights side by side that turn on. You may need to push the select button twice to activate them both. Are both of the green select lights on?
  12. superjer2000

    Printing on ImageWriter II from Apple IIGS

    Is the Select button/light activated on the ImageWriter?
  13. superjer2000

    Classic II weird issues after analogue board recap

    Do you have a video of the video instability? Have you resoldered the 4 pin connector from the analog board to the display and ensured the pins aren’t burnt or oxydized?
  14. superjer2000

    Classic II weird issues after analogue board recap

    As noted, check the voltages. The initial rebooting could have been caused by over or under voltage. No reason to suspect the flyback at this stage.
  15. superjer2000

    512K Disappointment

    Got it all working - I fully disassembled and cleaned the machine, mouse, keyboard and retrobrited those parts. I recapped the analog board and changed out the components I normally do on Pre-SE analog boards (CR1, CR5, CR20, CR21, U3, Q1, Q2 and Q3), resoldered flyback, logic board connector and replaced J1 and corresponding plug. I fired it up expecting it to work on the first try and just got the repeating flup noise which I think is what the prior owner indicated was the issue. Looked at Dead Mac Scrolls and tested the 5V line on the cable between the analog board and the logic board and sure enough, no continuity. There is a 2.5A inline fuse in the wire harness that tested open. I ended up just replacing that wire (i.e. removing the fuse) and presto the machine fired up. When I was testing the machine I noticed that all keys on the keyboard worked except for the delete key. I pulled the key switch and disassembled and noted a fair bit of corrosion. I soaked it in vinegar for a couple of days (with a piece of wire separating the two plates in the switch), soaked it in distilled water with baking soda, dried it, applied some contact cleaner/lubricant and that fixed that key switch. I just tested the SCSI port and that works great as well. Only downside is not a lot of software runs within 512k but a fun project nonetheless. Note, although it is an M0001WP, it had the 110V analog board installed. It must have been swapped out at some point.
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