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Everything posted by danpoarch

  1. On the Micron Xceed docs: I've reviewed some of the code in the .sit file and while I know a little Moto assembly from school, most of what's happening would require a lot more analysis to understand. However a couple things are crystal clear, the files in the includes list are not included in the .sit file [price is right loser sound]. Bummer, but there's still a sh!t-ton of things that can be figured out. MAV (that we now know is Maverick) can be seen on the FPGA(?) on the Macro Color boards that have the 369-010 part number that matches some of these files. The FPGA part on the MacroColor boards with part number 390-010 has a different name GAM. Interesting. These, with the GAM, must be later boards. But... in another thread JDW has a side-by-side shot of an Xceed that I would expect to be an older board but it has the GAM label. Point being, maybe it's just a later revision that's backwards compatible(?). These boards are so confusing as far as specs and naming so I have no idea. Just picked one up off of eBay with the GAM label with no grayscale adapter so I'll be interested to see what I find out. I may actually dive into ROM dumping the GAL that's on there. Have to find a ROM reader on eBay first, and having gone down this rabbit once before, that's not an easy expedition. NUBUS: Hard to find many pictures of the equivalent Micron NUBUS cards but perhaps the vector processor chips (MAV, GAM) on the NUBUS cards are cross compatible with the 030, but not the other way around. Hard to tell from the wording of the MAV/GOOSE section of the tech docs. There's a lot here to be picked apart. If we have a ROM and a map of how the vector processor works, perhaps we can use the existing Xceed drivers to get a basic video board off the ground and then build up from there.
  2. For anyone needing to map broken/disappeared traces on a Mac IIci, I cleared off everything in the serial/sound area. Note that some of my traces between UA4 and RP1 are shot to sh!t.
  3. Looking at replacing the Bourns filters in my Mac IIci’s. They meter pin-to-opposing-pin at 45ohms but that may not be an accurate read because it’s an RC filter. Which I have to assume it is... but... I can get any kind of data sheet From the numbers on the top of the case. I’ve replaced the through-hole Bourns filters on my SE/30s so I’m familiar with them. But I can’t get anything on these... Anyone have any suggestions?
  4. When you discover that the 15-pin is not showing any video and appears mangled by cap leakage, try falling back on the composite video out. This saved me some heartache on one of my 660AVs. Never have gotten the proper video port to work but I just use the composite if I need to bring it up. I plan on using it for donor chips to restore one of my 840AVs. All of the custom VLSI chips are the same for the two machines. These boards can become pretty infected, so clean clean clean.
  5. Thanks! I keep looking at the sound circuit thinking, “I should really rework and clean those, but... time already invested >> resale value...” but that never stopped me on my other Macs...
  6. Figured it out: 4420P-601-250/201 This is based on the idea that it’s the same basic need as the SE/30 filters which are: 4120R-601-250/201 Note: the IIci are SMD, the SE/30 are through-hole. Both are end-of-life and are non-stocked. So if you see them, buy them.
  7. That sounds like something I saw on Mouser. I will update the thread with a part number of that works out. I’m enjoying the challenges these two boards are giving me but I’m getting a little burned out by all the trace repair. Especially when the other one worked when I decided oh hey I should tear it down and *really* fix it... hope it works when I turn it back on.
  8. While I’m feeling chatty, I already rebuilt the power circuit wIth shiny new ICs. New Q3, Q4, 7474, and 2x 74132s. And yeah, I crammed some oversized solid-electrolytic 10μf smd caps on there for good measure.
  9. Also, if you have a Mac IIci, this repair is not for the rookie, nor for the impatient. These things are filthy. On both my boards nothing but grit has bubbled our from under these and the 75175 transceivers. Numerous broken traces once the chips are removed and the areas are cleaned. You may well find that these repairs are mandatory at some point because it appears that this is where all the electrolyte from the caps ran to.
  10. Bill of Materials: Color Classic Case - runs fan when switched on without mobo Color Classic Mobo - original to the machine, horrible recap from a rookie that looked stunningly like me 8 years ago. 575 Mobo - cleaned but not recapped as of yet The Classic will switch on to fans with no motherboard in the case, so we have hope for the analog board (I would assume). The horribly recapped mobo was my first recap attempt and has tons of busted traces and I used the wrong kind of flux, etc, and the Classic won't go to fans if I have it in the case. I've tried the in/out trick holding down the power switch with it and got nowhere. I'm just looking to get this thing off the ground and reading all of the various Mystic guides can get confusing. And most seem to be starting from a working base Classic, so my case is somewhat unique. Thus, can I recap the 575 mobo, make the resistor mods (http://www.applefritter.com/powercolorclassic/stuartbell/compendm) and stick it in the Classic and get anywhere with it? Or, do I have to start with a working Classic to make the necessary changes for the ? Will a working stock 575 board work in the case at any particular system revision? (Yes, I plan to recap analog board and fix the stock Classic mobo eventually)
  11. danpoarch

    Color Classic/Mystic intricacy and troubleshooting

    I did look at FAQ but it implies that you need to make gestalt ID changes. Which I can certainly do, I'm just trying to figure out the shortest distance to a bootable system so that I can verify operation of the parts I have. Will update this thread when I have more progress. DP
  12. danpoarch

    3D-Printed Objects

    Easy. Order a Quadra 840AV on eBay. But wait, there's more! Order now and you'll also receive a collectible non-working motherboard!
  13. Ooh... shiny pads! These look great!
  14. danpoarch

    3D-Printed Objects

    I would love to. I have two 660AVs with maybe two complete feet between the two of them. But I don't have a printer. Or resin. Or know where to start. I have a 2-4K budget and want to get a 3D printer that can print bezels, feet and other Mac plastics. Does anyone have direct knowledge of what make/model(s) I should look at? As well, what plastic should I use? I plan to eventually come up with a nice match for Beige/Platinum through research and trial and error. However, I want to get off the ground so I need some guidance on which resin to use for basic prototyping. I know what I want to do. I used to run imagesetters so I have a decent mindset for getting through the learning curve. I would love some pointers on where to start my research... feel free to PM me to keep from clogging up the thread (pardon the pun...).
  15. danpoarch

    PowerBook 500 series Battery Rebuild

    Would be interested in anyone know what the Klixon and JF5N parts are for? They are inline with the battery circuit and must provide some sort of feedback mechanism.
  16. danpoarch

    PowerBook 500 series Battery Rebuild

    That looks like the exact product I ordered. PM your address and I'll send you a set of 8 to get you off the ground. I think they're even still in the shrink wrap.
  17. danpoarch

    PowerBook 500 series Battery Rebuild

    I started this very project in 2013: - Tore open a 500 battery and took pictures - Bought tabbed AA NiMH cells on Amazon - Bought 3" wide Capton tape on Amazon to tape the battery back up (and to cut masks for adjacent parts during hot air rework) - Both my PowerBook 540c and my 520 stopped booting, even after 24hrs on the charger and SMC resets - Final two years of BSEE - 2nd child - Today I have not found a successful Powerbook 500 520c 540c battery recell teardown tear down repair walk through on the internet (Google: see what I did there). From what I recall: The battery is tricky to get into, and I would start with the corroded one to get the method down (assuming you haven't already). It's not welded all the way around, but where it's not welded vs where it is welded is not always obvious. The battery will likely need to be taped back to together, unless you want to get fancy with some sort of plastics adhesive. Using AA NiMH batteries appears to be a good thing because they are smaller, lighter weight, and longer lasting than what you're replacing. However, you may want to find some sort of non-conductive spacer. I charged the tabbed batteries on my regular Energizer charger to check that this would work and it did, but now that I look at it, I can't recall if I ever verified that 11V from 8 cells was enough or if you need to add a cell or two to reach 12V. It would be good for someone to document/explain the two inline components shown in the pictures I've attached. I'm not sure what they are but I assume they are part of the health assesment. I've never gotten too far researching them but also haven't tackled it with passion. I assume you know this, but: Use tabbed batteries and don't attempt to solder non-tabbed batteries. I also read somewhere that the batteries should be charged before assembly so that the battery health circuit/software has a full cycle to track. Again, soldering fully charged NiMH batteries would not be wise. I could be talked into sharing the new AA cells I have for you to finish the job and report your results to the community. Pictures attached below.
  18. danpoarch

    A Tale of Two Quadras: 950 and WGS 95

    I wanted those. ; ) If you cast off any parts lemme know.
  19. danpoarch

    Micron Xceed docs on ebay

    Micron GAM 0398 appears to be a Micron part number, but not any kind manufacturer reference. This is some sort of programmable logic, do we know the make/model of it? Also, this is the soldered chip in the top right corner(?), do we know what the socketed chip closer to the DIN connector is? I assume that's some sort of ROM or glue logic, correct? Are any of these dumpable? (My degree says EE, but my experience says spreadsheet monkey) Edit: On these older PLA chips, the programming was burned in wasn't it? Finding this same chip today, even if we had a ROM dump, might not necessarily do us any good? Again, out of my depth here.
  20. danpoarch

    Micron Xceed docs on ebay

    Trag - saw you in there, wasn't trying to call you out. If anything, that thread is a little hard to read so I couldn't tell who knew what. Thanks for your honest reply and thanks for digging through the sticky black tar of memories about something you wrote years ago. Thanks for the floppy image, too. The Vintage Mac wing at the maybe-someday Smithsonian Museum of Computer History should have a Gamba room and a Trag room. ; )
  21. danpoarch

    Micron Xceed docs on ebay

    Weird. Here's an email thread between Gamba and some other folks talking about an eBay purchase of the Micron XCEED plans in 2002. Does anyone know what happened to that set of plans? I have to assume they're a different set based on the recent seller's claim of being a Micron engineer. Not to point any fingers, I'm just trying to understand if these plans already exist in someone's archive. Maybe we're like Jean Reno and Robert De Niro in Ronin and we're chasing the steel briefcase for the wrong reasons, or maybe it's the wrong briefcase... https://www.mail-archive.com/search?l=compact.macs@mail.maclaunch.com&q=subject:%22Re%5C%3A+SE%5C%2F30+Dreams%2C+Tricks+and+Repairs%22&o=newest&f=1
  22. danpoarch

    Micron Xceed docs on ebay

    How would you implement a modern RAMDAC in this scenario? Would you look for some sort of IC that provides old-world VGA-out support for modern video interfaces and feed it the frame data from the FPGA? I've always thought sourcing the RAMDAC might be the hard part but after looking into VGA<->HDMI convertors on another quest to build a modern 15-pin video adapter, I'm thinking it might be easier than I presumed... Edit: My start on this track was that you would at least want VGA out (thinking outside of the err... box), and at that point you might as well hop to HDMI/DVI and these kinds of multi-format ICs are present on the market today and somewhat easy to implement (at least, documented).
  23. danpoarch

    Another SE/30... Y1 resistor (?)

    That's a nice early-ish production SE/30 board. Cleaning: Never had to deal with battery corrosion like this, but if it helps, what I do is... I spray boards with foaming industrial Simple Green (no coloring), let it sit for ten minutes, rinse under a faucet for sheeting action, then pour about a 1/4-1/2 gallon of distilled water on it, then rinse with 99% isopropyl. Everyone has their own method. Mine is based mostly on economy, you ideally shouldn't rinse a PCB under a faucet, but my hope is that the relatively cheap distilled water chased by alcohol pushes away most of the crap from the tap water because I don't let the tap water rest on the board. I can attest to this method working very well so far on about ten Macs and about as many Tek scopes, but again, I've never had to deal with that level of battery corrosion. The vinegar sounds good though, I may experiment with that. Back to your board, if it was the later bright green version with white plastics, I'd pass on this much work trying to revive it. The one you have is a much more sturdy board and more likely to suffer the cleaning that you're doing.
  24. danpoarch

    Mac Classic II

    Rebuild of motherboard and analog board for a Mac Classic II
  25. danpoarch

    MacClassicII XstrDamage

    From the album: Mac Classic II