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danpoarch

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  1. Color Classic/Mystic intricacy and troubleshooting

    I did look at FAQ but it implies that you need to make gestalt ID changes. Which I can certainly do, I'm just trying to figure out the shortest distance to a bootable system so that I can verify operation of the parts I have. Will update this thread when I have more progress. DP
  2. Bill of Materials: Color Classic Case - runs fan when switched on without mobo Color Classic Mobo - original to the machine, horrible recap from a rookie that looked stunningly like me 8 years ago. 575 Mobo - cleaned but not recapped as of yet The Classic will switch on to fans with no motherboard in the case, so we have hope for the analog board (I would assume). The horribly recapped mobo was my first recap attempt and has tons of busted traces and I used the wrong kind of flux, etc, and the Classic won't go to fans if I have it in the case. I've tried the in/out trick holding down the power switch with it and got nowhere. I'm just looking to get this thing off the ground and reading all of the various Mystic guides can get confusing. And most seem to be starting from a working base Classic, so my case is somewhat unique. Thus, can I recap the 575 mobo, make the resistor mods (http://www.applefritter.com/powercolorclassic/stuartbell/compendm) and stick it in the Classic and get anywhere with it? Or, do I have to start with a working Classic to make the necessary changes for the ? Will a working stock 575 board work in the case at any particular system revision? (Yes, I plan to recap analog board and fix the stock Classic mobo eventually)
  3. 3D-Printed Objects

    Easy. Order a Quadra 840AV on eBay. But wait, there's more! Order now and you'll also receive a collectible non-working motherboard!
  4. Ooh... shiny pads! These look great!
  5. 3D-Printed Objects

    I would love to. I have two 660AVs with maybe two complete feet between the two of them. But I don't have a printer. Or resin. Or know where to start. I have a 2-4K budget and want to get a 3D printer that can print bezels, feet and other Mac plastics. Does anyone have direct knowledge of what make/model(s) I should look at? As well, what plastic should I use? I plan to eventually come up with a nice match for Beige/Platinum through research and trial and error. However, I want to get off the ground so I need some guidance on which resin to use for basic prototyping. I know what I want to do. I used to run imagesetters so I have a decent mindset for getting through the learning curve. I would love some pointers on where to start my research... feel free to PM me to keep from clogging up the thread (pardon the pun...).
  6. PowerBook 500 series Battery Rebuild

    Would be interested in anyone know what the Klixon and JF5N parts are for? They are inline with the battery circuit and must provide some sort of feedback mechanism.
  7. PowerBook 500 series Battery Rebuild

    That looks like the exact product I ordered. PM your address and I'll send you a set of 8 to get you off the ground. I think they're even still in the shrink wrap.
  8. PowerBook 500 series Battery Rebuild

    I started this very project in 2013: - Tore open a 500 battery and took pictures - Bought tabbed AA NiMH cells on Amazon - Bought 3" wide Capton tape on Amazon to tape the battery back up (and to cut masks for adjacent parts during hot air rework) - Both my PowerBook 540c and my 520 stopped booting, even after 24hrs on the charger and SMC resets - Final two years of BSEE - 2nd child - Today I have not found a successful Powerbook 500 520c 540c battery recell teardown tear down repair walk through on the internet (Google: see what I did there). From what I recall: The battery is tricky to get into, and I would start with the corroded one to get the method down (assuming you haven't already). It's not welded all the way around, but where it's not welded vs where it is welded is not always obvious. The battery will likely need to be taped back to together, unless you want to get fancy with some sort of plastics adhesive. Using AA NiMH batteries appears to be a good thing because they are smaller, lighter weight, and longer lasting than what you're replacing. However, you may want to find some sort of non-conductive spacer. I charged the tabbed batteries on my regular Energizer charger to check that this would work and it did, but now that I look at it, I can't recall if I ever verified that 11V from 8 cells was enough or if you need to add a cell or two to reach 12V. It would be good for someone to document/explain the two inline components shown in the pictures I've attached. I'm not sure what they are but I assume they are part of the health assesment. I've never gotten too far researching them but also haven't tackled it with passion. I assume you know this, but: Use tabbed batteries and don't attempt to solder non-tabbed batteries. I also read somewhere that the batteries should be charged before assembly so that the battery health circuit/software has a full cycle to track. Again, soldering fully charged NiMH batteries would not be wise. I could be talked into sharing the new AA cells I have for you to finish the job and report your results to the community. Pictures attached below.
  9. A Tale of Two Quadras: 950 and WGS 95

    I wanted those. ; ) If you cast off any parts lemme know.
  10. Micron Xceed docs on ebay

    Micron GAM 0398 appears to be a Micron part number, but not any kind manufacturer reference. This is some sort of programmable logic, do we know the make/model of it? Also, this is the soldered chip in the top right corner(?), do we know what the socketed chip closer to the DIN connector is? I assume that's some sort of ROM or glue logic, correct? Are any of these dumpable? (My degree says EE, but my experience says spreadsheet monkey) Edit: On these older PLA chips, the programming was burned in wasn't it? Finding this same chip today, even if we had a ROM dump, might not necessarily do us any good? Again, out of my depth here.
  11. Micron Xceed docs on ebay

    Trag - saw you in there, wasn't trying to call you out. If anything, that thread is a little hard to read so I couldn't tell who knew what. Thanks for your honest reply and thanks for digging through the sticky black tar of memories about something you wrote years ago. Thanks for the floppy image, too. The Vintage Mac wing at the maybe-someday Smithsonian Museum of Computer History should have a Gamba room and a Trag room. ; )
  12. Micron Xceed docs on ebay

    Weird. Here's an email thread between Gamba and some other folks talking about an eBay purchase of the Micron XCEED plans in 2002. Does anyone know what happened to that set of plans? I have to assume they're a different set based on the recent seller's claim of being a Micron engineer. Not to point any fingers, I'm just trying to understand if these plans already exist in someone's archive. Maybe we're like Jean Reno and Robert De Niro in Ronin and we're chasing the steel briefcase for the wrong reasons, or maybe it's the wrong briefcase... https://www.mail-archive.com/search?l=compact.macs@mail.maclaunch.com&q=subject:%22Re%5C%3A+SE%5C%2F30+Dreams%2C+Tricks+and+Repairs%22&o=newest&f=1
  13. Micron Xceed docs on ebay

    How would you implement a modern RAMDAC in this scenario? Would you look for some sort of IC that provides old-world VGA-out support for modern video interfaces and feed it the frame data from the FPGA? I've always thought sourcing the RAMDAC might be the hard part but after looking into VGA<->HDMI convertors on another quest to build a modern 15-pin video adapter, I'm thinking it might be easier than I presumed... Edit: My start on this track was that you would at least want VGA out (thinking outside of the err... box), and at that point you might as well hop to HDMI/DVI and these kinds of multi-format ICs are present on the market today and somewhat easy to implement (at least, documented).
  14. Another SE/30... Y1 resistor (?)

    That's a nice early-ish production SE/30 board. Cleaning: Never had to deal with battery corrosion like this, but if it helps, what I do is... I spray boards with foaming industrial Simple Green (no coloring), let it sit for ten minutes, rinse under a faucet for sheeting action, then pour about a 1/4-1/2 gallon of distilled water on it, then rinse with 99% isopropyl. Everyone has their own method. Mine is based mostly on economy, you ideally shouldn't rinse a PCB under a faucet, but my hope is that the relatively cheap distilled water chased by alcohol pushes away most of the crap from the tap water because I don't let the tap water rest on the board. I can attest to this method working very well so far on about ten Macs and about as many Tek scopes, but again, I've never had to deal with that level of battery corrosion. The vinegar sounds good though, I may experiment with that. Back to your board, if it was the later bright green version with white plastics, I'd pass on this much work trying to revive it. The one you have is a much more sturdy board and more likely to suffer the cleaning that you're doing.
  15. Mac Classic II

    Rebuild of motherboard and analog board for a Mac Classic II
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