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tokyoracer

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Everything posted by tokyoracer

  1. Just sell it as a Mac compatible card. Old PC Rage cards are peanuts to buy, but Mac ones can command a reasonable price.
  2. Very, very nice. $3k though, ouch! Rarity costs, and in this kind of boxed condition, I can understand. Congrats, both on the haul and your still ongoing marriage.
  3. Now that's a fast SE/30! Can we see some Speedometer readings?
  4. I was so unimpressed with the speed of the LC under any kind of System 7 OS to the point that I downgraded it to 6.0.8. I found the LCII could cope with System 7.1 to a decent standard though, but I wouldn't go any higher than that on a standard CC. As others have said, the CC is a very slow 030 machine. The SE/30 over 3½ years before the CC would run rings around it, even in the same B&W colour setting. You can always drop in a LC575 board into it though like mine. Then you can play Doom (albeit in low graphics and in postage stamp screen size)! The other limiting factor
  5. I had a set of disks that the shutter was spring loaded both ways (like a normal diskette). But weirdly, you could click it all the way to one side and it would 'lock' in that position until you pinch it and doing that would ping back to it's closed position.
  6. Oh that's very, VERY nice Bolle. you always find ways to out-do yourself with yet another amazing example to reverse engineering. I don't know how you do it! Definitely still up for a Cache add-on for my Carrera that's sitting in my IIci. To be honest, money-no-object, I'd really love another complete set to put in my IIvx, but really that would probably be a bit wasted in that and would be nothing more then morbid fun to see the lackluster results.
  7. I've had no issues with Norton's DiskLight. They usually have a little control panel option so you can choose where it shows (too left or right corner) and if you want to show the ID and floppy activity. Find it quite nice to have for machines that have no disk activity LED on the case (which is most).
  8. I've exhausted all my solutions in trying to replace the SCSI HD in my IIsi with a larger one, but hopefully someone can tell me a possibly stupidly obvious thing I may have missed or am doing wrong. My IIsi HD has it's original 80MB Quantum HD installed, but since I had a spare Apple branded 1GB IBM drive I figured I'd swap them over. Using a bootable Lido disk (image on the Floppy Emu), it detects it as normal with all the right info. I used the Easy Setup to format and partition the drive (single) and after a long wait, it does complete the process without error and
  9. Here's what I have so far Mac-wise: • Plus • SE/30 • Classic II • Colo(u)r Classic • IIci • IIsi (2 for parts 1 working) • IIvx • Quadra 650 • Quadra 840AV • LC • Performa 460 • Performa 475 • Performa 630 (DOS Compatible) • PowerMac 6100/66 • PowerMac 7600/132 • PowerMac G3 Beige • PowerBook 145B • PowerBook 165 • PowerBook 180c • PowerBook 520c (x2) • PowerBook Duo 230 • Mac Pro 3,1 (too new?) Past machines owned that I can remember (most in disrepair):
  10. My Plus is immaculate, so a box for that would be a dream, but probably way out of my price range.
  11. Depends which video card you have. If you got the type that uses SIMM style V-RAM then yes they exist and are often sold on eBay for not very much if you ignore the "lol price" sellers. The 512K flavour which carry a bit of a premium compared to the 256K's. They're probably the easiest and most cost-effective cards. In my experience, probably the speediest too in terms of performance. The ones that rely on DIP chips are probably not so easy. The chips may still exist new if you can find out what the card is compatible with, but would likely be a bit of a minefield
  12. Agreed. Liberal use of some tin foil to reflect heat might be worth your time. Better yet, if you can get hold of a sheet silicone that's heat resistant (like them futuristic oven gloves).
  13. If it means anything, pretty much all my PowerBooks have this artifacting both colour and B&W (apart from my PPC 500). I would assume this is almost certainly a cap issue as opposed to a cable issue. One would imagine the lines would be fixed on the screen if the cabling was damaged. But please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on that assumption.
  14. Even though it has the I/O power symbol? Terrible choice of logo to use for a reset switch if that is true. It's pretty secure. If it was lose, the LED probably wouldn't be active. Also the laptop is immaculate and has barely any signs of use so I doubt wear and tear is at play here.
  15. Pretty certain it's a 'hard' power switch. (Picture of a PB 5300 but basically the same thing).
  16. My word, old laptops can be an absolute pain in the ass. I fired up the lowly 190 today (yes the one everyone seems to hate) only to find the trackpad stopped working (buttons were fine). Figured I'd check the connections, clean them and reseat them, then hope and pray the thing would work again. Well what I got was way worse, nothing. Well almost nothing. The green led lights up when the AC adapter is plugged in but that's about it. The light goes out if you press the power button from behind but goes immediately back on. Soft power from the keyboard does nothing thoug
  17. For the price of a cheap meal at a fast food joint, it really wouldn't hurt and offers piece of mind. I have one on my Perfoma 475 and although it doesn't cover the entire surface area, it definitely helps somewhat. Doesn't need to be anything fancy, just something low profile obviously, but do spend some money on decent thermal adhesive.
  18. Somewhere I have a IIci cache card that you're welcome to have for cheap. Should speed up the machine noticeably. I'm based in the UK too. Sadly I have no other spares as I gave the bits away a few years ago.
  19. I'm stoked about a possibility of a 630 series PSU solutions. Already had 3 of them buggers blow in quick succession. It's also one of my very favourite 68K models too being mine is the DOS version with all the AV/networking gear. Oh and IDE, which saves a lot of headaches.
  20. It it works, leave it well alone. In my experience, no it shouldn't take that much force. If a bunch of pins are misaligned and causing friction, perhaps. Sometimes they have a slight gap between the socket and ceramic but it really depends on the machine and what socket they installed from factory. But it should definitely be level unless you're unlucky and got a "Friday night job".
  21. Well it had a jumper on "Term Power" on the 300e. Tried removing it and still the same outcome. Tried both passive and active terminators, various SCSI ID's and on different PowerBooks. All same old. I can understand in your case not working on XT's, that's a completely different kind of beast, but one would think that if it works on desktops should work on PowerBook's since they speak the same language logically. Also found and tried using my external SCSI HD. As remembered, it booted and saw that just fine.
  22. Finally, an excuse to use a Pi. Price permitting, please do consider me officially interested in a populated board!
  23. Well there is only one cable going from the CD to the laptop which is a 50-25 pin Apple branded cable and it's probably about 20-30 CM long. That is in turn being converted from a 25-pin to an HDI connector. I wouldn't know for certain how they are jumpered without opening them up, but since the drives work fine on my desktop machines, shouldn't it also be plug-n-play on the laptops? I have used an active terminator on both drives for certain (has an LED on it too). I have one other which is just housed in a metal shell with no text on it (assumed passive). Both seem to
  24. So I've been working on my PowerBook 500's and my 180c, managed to get them in a nice running condition. Data transfering on these machines is nothing short of a bit of a pain but I should have the tools to do it.nor so I thought. I have one of these "Media Vision" HDI to 25-pin SCSI adapters and I'm trying to run a SCSI CD-ROM drive from it, and all the laptops I try are all doing the same thing. The two drives I have are an old Lacie one (blue case with a green light on the top) and an original Apple 300e. I know for a fact both work on my desktop computer
  25. Oh this is looking fantastic! Hats off to you sir, I have no idea how you pulled this off but you have. Will be following closely and hopefully will take one of these for my Cache-less one in my IIci if you ever sell one. Pretty sure mine's a 40MHz one so not sure if I will have some stability issues my end. Might be worth compiling a list of tested CPU's.
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