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  1. Lost Mac Plus keyboard cord

    I'm sure Dan had collected a large quantity of experimental evidence on the Mac 128, Mac 512 and Mac Plus and all their associated keyboards and revisions by August of 1984, but you will excuse me if I don't accept this as authoritative, despite the source. Given the variables involved and scads of evidence that others have lost hardware over this, I will not be plugging phone cords into my vintage Macs.
  2. Any opinions on new Ebay RAM?

    If I decipher this correctly, these same DIMMs would also work in my 7600/132?
  3. iBook G3 tangerine

    I loved the clamshells, purchased an Indigo new and it went with me everywhere for several years. Later when the prices came way down I bought a tangerine model (like this one) and it still runs well and looks awesome. A few years back I saw that someone nearby was selling one pretty cheap on CL, which was running Linux and so I bought it. It runs well and even connected through wireless to my old router. I am still hoping to get a Lime someday. I am so happy that this one is working out for you - enjoy!
  4. Macintosh Plus

    The keyboard alone is worth that, Nice haul!
  5. From the 'Lisa Troubleshooting Guide' Rev. Apr 84, Page 6.l2 SYMPTOM Incorrect or no video, no "clicks", and no error tones. PROBABLE FAILURE - CPU - I/O - (Go to Video Repair Procedures) - Motherboard The troubleshooting method that they describe is to swap in working ones, to determine the bad card. If someone has a different way to go about this, let me know. Otherwise, I think I might just button them up and set them aside until I can get a working one to swap parts and determine which card is the issue.
  6. stepleton noted that there are two power supplies (I have the reading for each listed in the middle two columns of the pinout attachment) and they both give similar results, so I don't think it is a power supply issue any longer. I'm thinking that one of the other components that is required to boot is the issue, either the CPU board, motherboard or the IO board. I believe that the 2/10 board is the best I have and for now I will assume that it is working since the switch light comes on after it is pressed with the 2/10 IO board, irregardless of the Lisa, power supply or motherboard used. I remember seeing a troubleshooting guide (in the Sun Lisa document?) so I'll see if I can look that up and go from there.
  7. Disk Backup over Serial port

    Wow, I mean, WOW!
  8. I have three IO boards, so I swapped each one out. Both of the 2/5 boards acted the same (instant on as described above). When I installed the 2/10 board, and applied power, the switch light did not instantly come on. I pressed the on-off switch and it lit up, but there were no speaker pops and there was no CRT activity. So, I pulled out the other Lisa and put the cage and PSU in that one and I saw the same behavior as in the first Lisa - pressed the on-off switch, then it lit up, no speaker pops and no CRT activity. The 2/10 board has no corrosion (no battery) and looks pristine, but the COP chip or other components could still be bad. Is there a troubleshooting chart for the COP chip somewhere? I haven't ruled out other problems on the board, but since the on/off switch behaves correctly, it seems like this one works better than the others and perhaps that might be the next thing to check.
  9. That's some good information. I'm going over the IO board, looking at the circuits that come from the COP chip. Thanks!
  10. Powerbook (hooray!) and Powerbook (boo!)

    Congrats - I hope 'surgery' goes well! Let us know how it turns out.
  11. Thanks for getting back so quickly - these results were with the PSU installed and the side panel off, card cage, motherboard and IO board installed and the 2 case switches defeated and with no mouse or keyboard attached. I plug it in and the light on the power switch immediately comes on and I get the following measurements. I assume that at this point I need to start looking outside the power supply for the issue that is preventing startup?
  12. Ok - so I finally tested the Power supplies that I have and one is fine and the other is close to ok - the one that was re-capped is low on the sense [4.7V vs 5V] and standby [4.9V vs 5 or 5.7V], while the other one is dead on. The only reading that is off is the -100V on pin B. My understanding is that this originates outside the power supply in the video circuit. Is this true and where do I look next? Instead of the expected -100V, it is reading +400V. Any suggestions?
  13. “Finder” Bomb error when reading cd-rom

    I'm sure you've checked, but how is it terminated and what ID is it set to? I assume the ID is fine since the problem occurs when it accesses the drive. I'm concerned about the SCSI termination first. Do you have a programmer switch? If so, you might be able to press it and type "g finder" (no quotes) into the window that shows up, to allow the system to recover. It won't allow you to read the CD, but you would regain control after an attempt. From my brief reading, the extension doesn't support the ISO format, not sure if that is an issue for you or not.
  14. Does the SE/30 live up to the hype?

    ...but my HP 9000/360 has a 25MHz 68030 and runs HP-UX 7, 8 and 9 - of course it has a monster graphics card and the thing weighs 200+ pounds with all the components stuffed into a 2 foot high cabinet and needs some weird RGB monitor, but it runs UNIX. The reason that I have a few SE/30's is because they are nice, fast (for their age), weigh a lot less than my HPUX machine, are mildly expandable (its pretty easy to throw ethernet and a version of system 7 on them) and if you are patient, keep your eyes open and are handy with a soldering iron, you can get one for a reasonable price. (mine averaged to $55 ea, not counting the micron card that I sold) My last two were under $45 each.
  15. Apple Hard Disk 20 repair: A success story

    Congrats on getting it running! Nice tip about the oil. ...in answer to the ROM question, I'm guessing that it was because of the extra space in the ROM on the ClassicII?