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About trag

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  • Location
    Austin, TX
  • Interests
    Model & Amateur Rocketry
  1. Modern PSU for the SE/30

    Nice work!
  2. Mac SE/SE/30 Ethernet Card Recreation

    I like Techfury90's approach but it's been over a year. I was just wondering, for those of us who are less software oriented and more hardware oriented... How hard would it be to put an SE/30 (or SE) ethernet card next to an LC-slot card and compare contrast until one could convert the LC card into an SE/30 card? Ultimately, this might devolve into using the LC-slot card as a source for parts, but they're still pretty cheap and common and I don't think the SE/30 card has anything on there that isn't also on the LC card -- but I'm not certain. Anyone know of any giant hordes of LC-slot ethernet cards? Piles at recyclers (Ole Pigeon?) . Might want to preserve them for the old parts.
  3. What's wrong with having a Mac that can run OSX and OS9. OSX can network up to big modern storage devices/windows/newer servers. OS9 will allow file sharing down to any older 68K Mac equipped with ethernet. Don't have ethernet, get a bridge Mac with serial ports and use LocalTalk or get a LocalTalk Bridge device.
  4. Anyone have part numbers for the ROM and Cache connectors/sockets in the X100 and X500 machines? ROM and Cache in X100 are the same as each other and same as the ROM in the X500. I think the Cache connector in the X500 is different. The former is a two-sided 160 pin DIMM (80 pins per side). I' m not sure about the latter.
  5. Apple Desktop Mouse II - Slow Tracking

    There's a little utility called ADB Reset or something like that. You might try that. I have a Kensington (?) Mouse in a Box and sometimes (especially when Blizzard games launch) the mouse speed goes through the roof. An ADB bus reset brings it back in line. I don't know if this will solve your problem, especially given the track pad working okay, but it's worth a try.
  6. 9600 604ev@500MHz

    Modifications to that 9600 board shown above are no ROM chips installed and no cache chips installed. But none of the Kansas (9600 Enhanced) boards had cache chips installed, because the cache was moved to the Mach V card. The 44 pin rectangular positions were for the ROM chips. The square chip positions are where the cache chips went. Interesting. That implies that the CPU card runs at 100 MHz (4.5X multiplier yields 450MHz). Did the in-line cache run at a divisor of the CPU speed? Or does it just run at the 100MHz CPU card speed. The logic board in these systems get all of their clocks from the CPU card (there's like four of them), so the card must export 50 MHz clocks to the logic board. In my experience, 9500 and 9600 machines will typically work up to about 62MHz, so it might be interesting to try clocking the CPU cards' bus speed up to around 120 MHz. However, to make this work, one must set the Clock ID pins to the higher settings These pins are on the CPU card and tell the motherboard what bus speed to expect and therefore what kind of timings to use. I believe that (for those who remember) the vast number of early CPU cards that just wouldn't do bus speeds above 45MHz is because the upgrade makers didn't know how to set the Clock ID pins. They were probably set to the lowest setting, and 45 MHz was as far above that as the system could manage with inappropriate system timings. Later, PowerLogix came out with the PowerBoost Pro (PPC604e upgrade card) which, on close examination, adjusts the Clock ID pins as well as the actual clock speeds and multipliers as one adjusts the speeds (I think there's actually some kind of little PIC microcontroller on there to handle it). With the PowerBoost Pro I could consistently get 62 MHz bus speeds out of the Kansas 9600 (a downgrade, because the PowerBoost Pro isn't a Mach V) or out of a 9500 or S900 with the motherboard cache disabled.
  7. I have not tested every 68K Mac, but of the ones I've tested (and PPC Macs too), none of the models will give a start-up chime/bong if there is no RAM installed (or resident on logic board), except, the IIfx. The IIfx manages to POST using the 32K of cache on the logic board. Unless the Q950 has onboard cache, I don't think it will bong at start-up without installed memory.
  8. Modern PSU for the SE/30

    Not satisfactory to my OCD impulses. Plus, with practice, crimping the pins isn't that difficult. Crimpers are (or can be) more or less universal. They have different imprints for different diameter "legs". So getting the right one isn't really an issue. It's more a matter of there being a myriad of crimping tools, with varying degrees of comfort and convenience. I find it easier to just buy new housings rather than try to salvage old housing by removing the pins. They're not pricey. Being outside the USA puts a different dimension on it though.
  9. Modern PSU for the SE/30

    They're usually Molex connector housings, and once one identifies them on Digi-Key, the product page will yield links to compatible pins and mating housings. So finding the right pins is not usually a problem. Plus, all the Mini-fit Jr. housings use the same pins, and every power cable connector I've seen so far (at last the two row ones) are Molex Mini-fit Jr. line. It could be a problem for some connectors, but I haven't run into a problematical one yet. Of course, I haven't been doing much of that kind of running the last 10 years.
  10. Anyone have any experience fixing these guys? Mine just died (no LEDs lighting) after I unplugged and plugged it a couple of times. Of course, it's been plugged in continuously for the last 20+ years, so i suppose it's entitiled. There are no SM electrolytic caps inside. One big ceramic and two radial electrolytic (470/10 + 2000/25?IIRC). Oh, and two diodes near the power circuitry (half wave rectifier?). I'll need to check those when I dig in. The AC adapter is reading 14.xx VAC. Supposedly it outputs 12V, so it might be an overvoltage situation. That would be easiest. I'm hoping that the total lack of LEDs is a good sign indicating a failure in the power circuitry and not something deeper in. I can probably find replacements for the power circuitry, but not for the custom Asante chip and what looks like a big processor of some kind. So agaain, anyone with experience, or just willing to kibbitz?
  11. DC Plug Sizes

    I'm posting some plug sizes for the DC end of AC adapters for various accessories. If someone knows of an online resource that already collects this info, let me know and I'll stop... I hope this will become a collection where we can look much of this up, when we're trying find a replacement, or when we want to adapt a device to another power supply for other reasons. My own motivation is too many power bricks in the wiring closet. I've purchased a 20amp 12V power supply: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6S0JS4 and I don't want to cut the cords off the power bricks, so I need to build pigtails to run to the various devices in my wiring closet. I'll have to take the wiring closet apart to get most of the voltages and amperages, so I'll add those later when I'm ready to build my multi-device power brick. Asante MicroAsantePrint 5.5mm (OD) X 2.1*mm (ID) 12V AC, *Might be smaller than 2.1mm. Needs more investigation. (Darn it, plugging and unplugging my MicroAsantePrint seems to have killed it. It has been on continuously for over 20 years...) 8 port Friendly Net Hub 5.5mm (OD) X 2.1mm (ID) D-Link DGS-1024A 24-Port Gigabit Switch 3.5mm (OD) X 1.35mm (ID)? Not certain about ID yet. Netgear R6300V2 Smart WiFi Router AC1750 Dual Band Gigabit 5.5mm (OD) X 2.1mm (ID) CM500-1AZNAS (16x4) DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem 5.5mm (OD) X 2.1mm (ID) Rosewill RC-412 10/100Mbps Switch 16 Port 5.5mm (OD) X 2.5mm (ID) Seagate Expansion external hard drives (all capacities) 5.5mm (OD) X 2.5mm (ID) 12VDC 1.5A Backup Plus external hard drives (all capacities) 5.5mm (OD) X 2.5mm (ID) 12VDC 1.5A STCR4000101 Personal Cloud Home Media Storage Device 4TB NAS 5.5mm (OD) X 2.5mm (ID) 12VDC Silicon Dust HDHR3-US HD Homerun Dual 5.5mm (OD) X 2.1mm (ID)
  12. Modern PSU for the SE/30

    Nice explanation. Thank you! Which terminal crimper did you choose? Did you try more than one? I'm in the market for one, but there's a dizzying array. I should probably consult with the hardware guys in the lab upstairs at work... But they have a little different focus than us hobbyist users. Are you quoting yourself or someone else about dissecting the Sony PSU and finding just a single isolation diode on the 12V rail? The reason I ask is that I wonder if the rail was 12V before the diode or 12V after the diode. Vf is going to cut .7V - 1.3V off of the voltage. If the rail must be 12V after the diode, that's inconvenient. If the sweep will tolerate the loss, then I see no reason not to add a diode on the wire to the sweep. Covering the amperage will be a little challenging. Was it close to 3A?
  13. jt, I think that bit of sales-speak about chaining the RAM Powercards together was referring to a logical chaining rather than a physical chaining. I don't know, but I assume that if one had more than one RAM Powercard installed, one could tell whatever software was used with them to make one big RAM disk out of both of them together. Curious what one would connect to the end of that SCSI card, especially give how long it already is. I'm having trougle seeing how anything would physically fit. Really wish I had had $600+ to blow on a RAM PowerCard back in the day. I had my eye on them, but that was like tuition, fees and books for a whole semester, back then.
  14. Wire wrap sockets would have extra long pins, right? I don't have any of the wire wrap sockets. I have male, straight, and female right angle, which is exactly the opposite of what one wants. I kept getting confused when I bid on the Ebay lots back when. But the whole connector is confusing. The connector on the logic board, the NuBus slot connector, is female, even though the housing appears male, because the **pins** are female. The connector on NuBus cards, is Male, even though the housing appears female, again, because the pins are maie. If you used female backwards to the above description, the I do have the 96 pin straight connector you want. It just doesn't have the long pins of a wire wrap connector -- just the "-5" PCB pins. I think Digi-Key still has the actual wire wrap part you need listed, though they're out of stock. Unfortunately, the minimum order is 5100 units... 1-1393642-6-ND http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=CVM_1-1393642-6&DocType=Customer+View+Model&DocLang=3D
  15. I have, except.... I dumped the ROMs on my chip programmer. Then I programmed more ROMs of the 4.1 ilk (was replacing 68LC040 with full 68040), installed those and they worked fine. I also took the dump, which I had used to program additional chips, and uploaded it to my webspace (really ftp space, but never mind). So, if there is corruption, it happened somewhere in the getting the file to the internet phase, not in the pulling the file off the chip phase. Daystar might have done something as simple as scrambling the data pins when they programmed/read the ROM. If, e.g., you reversed the order of the data pins, everywhere you expect to see a 1, you'd see an 8. 0 would still be 0 and F would still be F, 9 would still be 9 and 6 would still be 6. Anyway, might be interesting to look and see if a straight substitution code would unscramble it. Of course, if they scrambled the address lines as well, that would get messy. I don't think it can actually be encrypted by mathematical algorithm. The reason is that either the Mac or the Turbo040 must be able to read the unencrypted contents. If the content is encrypted, where is a processor going to get the instructions for decrypting it? I suppose there could be some hardware logic (decryption PAL?) on the board, but that would add cost to the product. Scrambling the address and data lines doesn't add any hardware cost, and only requires them to (probablly) have some kind of adapter in between the chip and programmer at the factory. Say, anyone remember if the Turbo040 was firmware updateable in the field? I kind of think it was through the Control Panel, but I may be thinking of the Turbo601. I have this memory that one could do some special key combination to the Control Panel and it would offer to update the firmware on the Turbo040. I can't remember if there was a separate file, or if each update was embedded in the latest version of the CP. I'm working from more than 20 year-opld memories here, so forgive me if I'm completely wrong. Point being, it would interesting to see what any user uploadable update looks like. I have some of the GAL based Turbo040s. One of these days I'm going to have tear one apart (delicately disassemble) and start tracing out things. The rate things are going, you guys will have it done before I can get the box out of the attic.