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Everything posted by olePigeon

  1. QuickSilver is my favorite of the G4 lines. Only exception might be the Dual 533. I have fond memories of MacOS 8.6 on a Dual 533, and the QuickSilver is OS 9 only. I wonder if that used to be a ProTools machine of some sort.
  2. @Gorgonops@Reic-3 That's why I suggested using ADTPro over cassette. You have better control over the audio on the computer. It would rule out a bad cassette input on the Apple ][. Edit: Or rule out bad audio cable. Easier to troubleshoot.
  3. olePigeon

    Fun with colour on my SE/30

    Hmm. I wonder if it'd be cheap enough to just have a mold made and get new glass. It's not a complex shape, relatively small and it'd be useable on every compact model except for the LC 5xx line. Preliminary Googling shows that it's not too expensive. MUCH cheaper than injection molding.
  4. Also, the ADTPro website has a lot of good troubleshooting tips for loading over cassette. It says in regards to your error: Note: If instead the Apple says "ERR" or never returns you to a prompt, either the Apple isn't hearing anything at all (check the audio cable) or it isn't hearing things loudly enough. Make sure your sound volume is set at 50% of maximum and try again. Hit Ctrl-Reset on the Apple to regain control and start again at step 4 above.
  5. Also, I assume you're using a website like this one: http://asciiexpress.net/gameserver/ If not that one specifically, you could give it a go. It has different fidelities for the game tracks. Try fiddling with those options.
  6. I use a //e, but I've only ever used floppies. Never used a plain old ][. There're couple of people on here I'm sure who can help. One thing you could try to do to troubleshoot would be to use ADTPro see if you can bootstrap your Apple II over the cassette port. That would at least eliminate whether or not your Apple II's cassette port is working.
  7. olePigeon

    Best macOS version for IIci?

    I think MacOS 8 requires a 68040. You'd need an '040 accelerator before doing OS 8.
  8. olePigeon

    Sci drive not working

    Every cartridge drive I've used required the respective company's software. I never known one to not require software to work correctly. If you haven't done so (and as far as I can tell, you haven't said otherwise) you should install the Syquest software and use the bundled utility for formatting disks. You shouldn't need additional special software to erase the disk. If you installed the SCSI Probe extension, I suggest you remove it. It will cause issues with your SCSI drives. I've never gotten the SCSI Probe extension to work correctly without causing more issues than it solves.
  9. olePigeon

    Monitor Solution for Macintosh IIci?

    I'd recommend a 17" or 19" LCD monitor that's 1280x1024. It scales perfectly to 640x480, which is a nice fallback resolution or if your old Mac loses its resolution settings like after a PRAM reset. I also have a couple games that only run at 640x480. You can find 17" and 19" LCDs used (and occasionally new) for around $50-$60 shipped. Just make sure you get in writing that the LCD is free of dead and/or stuck pixels. If you don't mind spending $100, you can get a brand new one from most online stores like B&H or Adorama with free shipping and no tax. You'll also want to pick up an adapter like this one. Older Macs don't always play nice with LCDs, and the adapter can help with that.
  10. olePigeon

    Just bought a Color Classic, no power

    Nice. Looks like it's already been recapped. Should last you a good long time.
  11. olePigeon

    800k Floppy drive question

    I wonder if someone could make an IWM to SWIM adapter for the Plus by looking at the pinout on the SE and II.
  12. olePigeon

    Baroni’s Collection

    I think the ESR only really matters when you're dealing with heat-sensitive stuff. According to the Googles, the lower the ESR, the lower the amount of energy is dissipated as heat. So I would imagine that would make a difference if you're trying to make an efficient power supply and keep the heat levels down. Or if a device operating in a temperature controlled environment. That kind of stuff.
  13. olePigeon

    Baroni’s Collection

    @elbaroni I used to be in the same boat as you not too long ago. This is what I've come to understand about recapping and capacitors: capacitance is what matters: the µf (microfarads) part. So you want to make sure that one is equal to what you need. The Voltage part is the rated tolerance. This one can be equal to or greater than what you need. So it's OK to put in a higher rated capacitor such as 47µf 20V in place of a 47µf 16V. ESR isn't specified because it probably doesn't matter too much in this case. From what I've read, the lower the better. Next is to just make sure that it's the right type of cap. Tantalums are good replacements for surface-mount caps. Axials are for a couple of the horizontal through-hole caps, and radials for the regular through-holes. I just can't remember the type of capacitor, but there's one that LOOKS like an old electrolytic surface mount, but they're more reliable. They're also more expensive, but they'll keep the old-school look of the motherboard without using tantalums.
  14. So I found a Fujitsu case for the older 230MB MO drive that I thought would be perfect for my 2.3GB drive. That way I'd have an official nice looking Fujitsu case for my Fujtisu MO drive. *trumpet* Waaaa waaaaa. As you can see, it doesn't line up. The older 230MB drive has an obnoxiously large bezel. It doesn't really fit in anything except this case. If you put it in a normal SCSI case that doesn't have adjustable screw holes, it'll protrude outside the case. Here's a side-by-side comparison: So I had to find a way to make the screw holes line up for my new drive. I (thought I had) measured the difference, then I created and printed out a bracket: I didn't get pictures, but the thicker section is where metal pegs that hold the rubber grommets go. Turned out pretty close: It's inset a few millimeters, I guess I was off a bit. However, I noticed that's flush with the inside of those decorative grooves. Also, the inset will keep the dust out. So I figure I'd leave it. Looks good, it works, and won't get dusty like my other one.
  15. olePigeon

    Fujitsu Magneto Optical Transplant

    @pcamen They don't need a driver to get access to a disc if it's inserted before you turn on the computer, in which case it's treated like a HDD. You'll want the driver so you can use it as a regular cartridge drive system, and be able to insert discs and eject them at will. The Fujitsu driver might work with those MO drives, they're often rebranded Fujitsu. I used to have a generic MO driver Control Panel that worked with any drive, but it would hard crash my system whenever I tried to open the Control Panel to change settings. I ended up throwing it out since the Fujitsu worked fine. Interestingly, most Fujitsu drives have a jumper setting that disables Eject and changes the drive so the computer thinks its a HDD and not a "removable media" drive.
  16. olePigeon

    Fujitsu Magneto Optical Transplant

    I just realized I never updated this thread. I reprinted the brackets with a larger offset and now the drive sits flush with the bezel instead of inset by about 2mm.
  17. olePigeon

    Fujitsu Magneto Optical Transplant

    @Trash80toHP_Mini I didn't print that one, but I did use it to make a badge. Another user on here sold it to me. I just like to collect them.
  18. olePigeon

    Fujitsu Magneto Optical Transplant

    @pcamen Here ya go: http://bitcider.com/content/f/Fujitsu Magneto Optical Software 2.3.8/MDF_2.3.8.image.bin
  19. Oh, my mistake. Pictures looked like the old caps. Don't suppose you have a Snooper card? It could tell you which (if any) of your power rails aren't up to snuff. Although I think you've ruled out power supplies, so I honestly don't know.
  20. olePigeon

    Very excited about my $30 vintage Mac haul today!

    WHAT?! Really?! What's the address? I can't find any info on it. :o
  21. You should really recap that IIsi. Save your money on the PSUs and get yourself some caps.
  22. olePigeon

    ROMinator II Pickle of an issue

    SCSI drives need a terminator if they're not self-terminating. You may have to buy one on eBay. If they're not properly terminated, it can cause all sorts of issues. I know that on my IIci at home I had to add an in-line passive terminator in addition to terminating the end of the chain. I guess there was too much noise. Without the terminator, my Mac wouldn't see some of my devices (or at worst, it might crash.)
  23. olePigeon

    Early Mac LC proto?

    2 floppy version was available as the extra low-cost variant for education. The idea is that you could install a HDD later when they were more affordable, or reuse HDDs from other machines that were being put to pasture.
  24. olePigeon

    My IIci rebuild video series

    You pay for the whole seat, but you only need the eeeeedge! *explosions*
  25. Any idea what this ROM Enhancer did? It's already a Mac Plus and has SCSI, so it's not a regular ROM upgrade from a 512k. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-Macintosh-Plus-Mainboard-With-Bios-Enhancer/254216481732