Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Torbar

    Almost Disappointed They're not G5's

    Don't want to hijack this topic, so at some point I'll create another topic and/or send PMs. I'll be out of the country for the first half of october, but maybe late october/early november might be a good time? Never knew we had so many CT members!
  3. KnobsNSwitches

    An Expensive TV...Macintosh TV Logic Board in a Color Classic

    i've continued tweaking knobs, and I've got things more useable for now. I think if I shrank the vertical height even more things would be a normal ratio but that's more black bars than I want for now. It seems if I expand the horizontal width farther the horizontal bow doesn't affect the picture.
  4. Today
  5. Unknown_K

    Almost Disappointed They're not G5's

    Maybe the previous owner tried to use incompatible sticks, found the units non functional, and then decided to get rid of them.
  6. Only if the Plus has an older flyback. As I recall the B and C variants both had the bleeder. The recommendation is usually to get the C if you can (because it’s the latest, I suppose). Most Plus machines I have seen have the C version, it’s the 512K and earlier that often don’t. Really a shame that replacement fly backs are so expensive now ($100 seems standard even for B variant).
  7. rudedude

    Almost Disappointed They're not G5's

    The strange thing is that as soon as I put in some known good sticks it booted up without a single issue. I have no idea what was wrong with the old sticks.
  8. KnobsNSwitches

    An Expensive TV...Macintosh TV Logic Board in a Color Classic

    Well I improvised a crt adjustment tool with a wooden chopstick. I've gotten things much better, but the horizontal bow (PB) adjustment doesn't seem to make any difference, so things are stuck with this pinched middle picture.
  9. I wouldn’t. You are eliminating the bleeder resistor if you do that.
  10. I got a reply from Charles today and he claims he's going to try to get my boards sent back this weekend. I'll refrain from sharing his explanation for delays and lack of communication, but will say that my pitchfork remains in its storage case.
  11. MOS8_030

    2 Odd Nubus Video Cards

    Ahh, yer right, I didn't look at the photos close enough. Need moar coffee.
  12. Trash80toHP_Mini

    2 Odd Nubus Video Cards

    If it were that or any other Radius card it would have "Radius" printed on the (missing on BUG)) three big ASICs near the DA-15 connector as is the case with the RasterOps logo on their custom chips. The BUG logo on the three custom ICs would make that the name of the company, not the name of the card. The three IC on the three cards (Radius included) ought to be RAMDAC for R,G & B Digital to Analog Conversion. TattleTech will tell the tale.
  13. MOS8_030

    2 Odd Nubus Video Cards

    The second card with all the VRAM may be a Radius Direct Color 16/24 I found a reference and photo here: http://www.retrotechnology.com/herbs_stuff/m_nubus.html
  14. My bet is you won't be able to set this up correctly by using just the pots.
  15. Tempest

    Original Battery in my Mac SE

    I'm not sure actually. It's a mid-range SE so it's not too early and it's before the Super Drive was added later on. When I crack it open again I'll have to see.
  16. I've read a couple forum posts from years ago claiming that a Mac TV logic board works in a Color Classic. And that the screen res will be 640x480 with no VGA mod necessary. I was skeptical, but came across a Mac TV board for sale and wanted to find out. So I did, and the rumors are true: I don't have a plastic hex adjusting tool, so I'm hoping I'll be able to get the screen to display right once I can adjust the pots. It's not as dark as it appears in that first pic but the screen it is definitely darker than when running with the regular CC board..
  17. gpbonneau

    2 Odd Nubus Video Cards

    The first is a RasterOps Paintboard Li : Provide Quickdraw acceleration but not so fast... I have done a quick graphic test last month to compare it with some other cards in my IIfx : Apple 24AC, Radius 24XP and a SuperMac Spectrum/24 Series V : (this MacBench version is based on a 6100 perf.) : Anyway it's a good card for a large screen. I don't know the second one.
  18. dochilli

    Mac Classic no boot

    Check the voltages at the floppy port. Must be 12, -12 and 5 V. Lower than 4.75V will result in a checkerboard screen. But if you recap the AB the voltages shoud be ok. Otherwise you have some other parts on the AB that shoud be replaced.
  19. CC_333

    3D-Printed Objects

    It looks really nice! Almost like a stock part (I say almost, because I've never heard of a Jaz bezel ever having been made before now, which of course doesn't mean they never existed). As for color, well, I guess you could retrobright the front panel? then it would look closer. But, as you pointed out, you'd have this problem even if you had a pristine OEM bezel, so.... At least it fits well, and won't break! Or, even if it does break, one could simply print a new one!! c
  20. Trash80toHP_Mini

    Building a ClearMac from Quadra/Performa 630

    Love the Faraday cage.
  21. unity

    Original Battery in my Mac SE

    Yeah, those Vartas last a crazy long time. Its insane! I never had one explode and I have dozens of SE boards. But I would guess its possible. If its still holding voltage, I would lean towards it being okay to leave. Its when its no longer putting out voltage that I would worry and remove it. These were only on the very early SEs, so its amazing to think that battery still works after 30 years.
  22. Got over those issues, and made a new one...more pictures soon...it's coming out well!
  23. Swolfington

    3D-Printed Objects

    @360alaska that's looking great! I'd love to see what it looks like installed. I tried my hand painting the 9500 jaz drive bezel I cooked up a while ago, but I wasn't able to find exactly the same "smokey beige" Rustoleum, and sadly, it wasn't the right color. I was only able to source the "painters touch" variety, rather than the "american accents" you recommended.. for whatever reason, the painters touch version has a slight (but definitely visible) pinkish hue to it. Just in case anyone out there is trying going down this path, make sure you get the right one. I was able to find another Rustoleum color, Painter's Touch Premium Ultra Matte, which is much much closer to (though not exactly matching) the OG Macintosh beige. here's my results: matches pretty closely with the AEKII keycaps, which haven't yellowed like the rest of the plastic. here it is against the painted metal case of my 8100. The lighting sucks (and my camera phone's white balance isn't great), but you can see that it's almost the same, but isn't quite 100% matching. You can also see here how improved it looks compared to the unpainted white plastic cd rom bezel installed on the 8100. Against the bezel plastic of the rest of the case, though, it still sticks out thanks to the yellowing of the original plastic. I'm not really sure how I feel about that since even if I had a factory original pristine part, it would have the same problem. and here's the paint I ended up using, in case it's helpful for anyone.
  24. jyeandle

    Extra confusing Classic checkerboard

    As I said a few posts above, retracing what I had done I realized after the fact that I brainfarted and connected one probe to +12 and the other to a logic pin, likely one of the phase lines, though I'm not sure which one. So, I'm figuring most likely the swim is dead as a result. And hoping it's ONLY the swim is dead as a result. I do have one I can swap over, though I'm waiting on some chipquik to arrive tomorrow to do that. So is UA5 responsible for toggling the line low/high? I know it does when the reset button is pressed, but does it also do that on power up? It had been working fine with the pin clipped until I went and shorted out the swim. Where could I find a new UA5? The only source I could think of would be from another logic board. But I'm assuming any logic board that has a UA5 in good enough condition to be a suitable donor would be in good enough condition that I could just use the whole board and not futz around with swapping chips. Was that chip/form factor used in any other mac? Google has not been my friend when it comes to that... The AB hasn't been recapped, yet. They've been ordered, so that'll happen when they arrive. But I don't see/smell any evidence that they've started leaking yet. I don't have a scope, so I dont know how much ripple is in the power coming off the AB, but the voltages are within spec, and I would assume C5, C6, C8, C9, C44, C45, C51 and C55 on the LB offer some ripple filtering...
  25. Yesterday
  26. techknight

    Original Battery in my Mac SE

    Let me guess, soldered in black varta? if so you cant kill those things! I had one or two.
  27. techknight

    Extra confusing Classic checkerboard

    UA5 was definitely bad. However when using the multimeter the way you did would NOT have done any damage at all unless your probes were set in Current (ma/A) mode instead of volts/ohms mode. the burning smell was likely something giving up the ghost, a guess scenario would be you slipped on your probe when trying to read stuff and went oops, I shorted something out, Better not mention that mistake on the forum. Or, you did it unwittingly and cant recall it. Either way, anything like this will fry an IC faster than a fart flies in a fan factory. I have done that so many times I cant count. Either that, or your sniffer is just smelling "old". But in my experience, I tend to believe the above is what happened. And if it happened in the connector you were probing, you killed the SWIM, this will prevent a boot. The RESET line has to be toggled low, and then high during power-on otherwise the CPU can get into an indeterminate state, and youll get these errors. Also have you recapped the analog board/power supply? if not we are all wasting our time! It is a known issue, and voltages have to be stable before any true assessments can be made. Like leaving 10 year old fuel in your car while trying to service your engine for a misfire.
  28. Trash80toHP_Mini

    Three Slot Riser for 6400 - In search of the Mythical Slot C

    The first difference between Slots A and B on the 6400 riser is plain as day on the solder side. REQ for Slot B is supplied from the logic board from a pin that's RESERVED in the PCI Specification. Now it's time to meter more oddities. SlotSearch-001.PDF
  1. Load more activity
×