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  1. Past hour
  2. MikeatOSX

    Revitalization of a PCMCIA Rev. B card cage

    I suppose Apple repaired their CF card drivers for Rev. B in MacOS 8.1, but inside, without extensions. Rev. B allows to format a card in HFS+ so it can be used on a recent Mac for exchanging files, but Rev. B doesn't like more than one partion on a card. It wants to format this card. Limit is always 2 GB. Booting didn't work for me.
  3. Today
  4. bibilit

    Dead 512k, rapid clicking?

    Problem is some information is missing from the screen, so a 4 is present for sure, we can only guess the rest. Once again piggybacking is the way to go, worked a 100% for me. My guess is that maybe more than one chip is bad.
  5. Byrd

    Revitalization of a PCMCIA Rev. B card cage

    That's some interesting research - do you think Apple hobbled CF card access using their PCMCIA drivers? Can you boot from the CF card?
  6. tattar8

    Dead 512k, rapid clicking?

    From the code it seems like the last digit is 4. Wouldn't that narrow it down to F7, since all the G chips have a 0 for the last digit?
  7. bibilit

    Dead 512k, rapid clicking?

    Yes ram issue. As the code is not complete, hard to locate the faulty one (F7 or G7) piggybacking always worked for me.
  8. blusnowkitty

    Dead 512k, rapid clicking?

    Pull your logic board and find out; the RAM is in F/G 5-12 on the board, just below the 68000. It looks like the 512k uses 4256 DRAM ICs (which is a 256Kx1 chip) with 15ns refresh. Couldn't tell you if a faster part will work with slower parts, but you don't want to put a slower part in place of a faster part.
  9. tattar8

    Dead 512k, rapid clicking?

    What would be the correct DRAM IC I would need?
  10. So if the disk is formatted in HFS by the Mac Plus, it can be written to by a more modern Mac that normally writes to HFS+ ? That seems worrisome. What exactly are the 2 Macs that you sneaker walk between? steve
  11. blusnowkitty

    Dead 512k, rapid clicking?

    https://udcf.gla.ac.uk/~gwm1h/Error_Codes/Sad_Mac_Codes.html I'd hazard a guess that the error code is 020004. DRAM ICs are pretty cheap on eBay so I'd pick up a bunch as well as some sockets and start swapping things out.
  12. tattar8

    Dead 512k, rapid clicking?

    I have not replaced the caps on the logic board yet -- when I ordered the analog board caps I forgot that there were any on the logic board at all. I'll order them soon. In the meantime, I'd like to try to get it working. After giving the board a good wash, I now get a good bong, but a distorted Sad Mac along with vertical white lines on the screen. I can only read parts of the error code, as seen in the following image: https://imgur.com/0tITiiy Is it likely that there are dead RAM chips?
  13. blusnowkitty

    Apple ][ Plus Soldering

    Try to avoid those cheap soldering pencils and save up for something nice like a Hakko FX-888D: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M
  14. Kaa

    Lucky IIx acquisition

    Definitely some impressive results!!! I'm looking forward to some nicer weather to try this out too.
  15. trag

    Apple ][ Plus Soldering

    My one big recommendation is to get a bottle of liquid solder flux, such as this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RIF3BM/?coliid=ILLIJY0JW504Q Many difficulties during soldering and especially desoldering can be laid at a need for more flux. Flux forms a conductive layer that helps conduct heat from the soldering pencil to the work. As well as preferentially combining with oxygen and thus preventing oxidation of the work.
  16. Mr SN

    Lucky IIx acquisition

    @LaPorta I read quite a bit about this and spent some time on YouTube trying to figure out what might be best. Even one guy who said maybe you don't want to do it! Anyway, instead of making my own mixture, I found that you could order a pre-made liquid of hydrogen peroxide with a reactive agent in it already. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002Z916W/ I used a paint brush and painted on a good thick coat (as best I could) and then put it inside a gigantic ziplock bag. I have been literally waiting for three weeks for a nice sunny weekend and finally got one. I did do a precleaning of the case before painting on too. I'm very happy with the results
  17. mdeverhart

    LC Fan and Speaker Clicking

    It looks like there may be a significant amount of corrosion / cap goo under and around UB9, UB10, and UC9. If that’s the case (hard to tell from the pictures), you may need to remove those components and clean under them. I don’t have the schematics, so I’m not sure what those components do. I agree with your reading of the capacitor data sheet - those are all 100 uF, looks like 8 of them should be 10uF and only one 100uF: http://www.maccaps.com/MacCaps/Capacitor_Reference/Entries/1990/10/15_LC_I%2C_II%2C_III_Power_Supplies_2.html
  18. LaPorta

    Lucky IIx acquisition

    The difference is incredible! I, too, would like to know. I have a large tote and some beater cases I will be trying on when the weather gets warm.
  19. Apologies in advance if this is just rehashing common knowledge - I have done research but I'm honestly paranoid that I'll break the computer or that there's some info I've missed that is essential for working on older machines. A while ago I got an Apple ][ Plus which, despite being working before it was shipped, wasn't working upon arrival. I posted here, and some helpful people told me it was likely the video solder joint that had broken. Now, a few months later, I'm sheltering in place and bored, and have decided to finally get it working again - but I haven't ever soldered before. I'm going to get equipment and practice boards, but does anyone have any advice about equipment to buy (I have a soldering iron in mind, recommended by someone else on these forums, but I don't know what other equipment I need), soldering that video joint in particular, or even soldering in general?
  20. adb9001

    Compact Mac Test Stand

    Fantastic! Clever approach and just think of the time you will save. LaPorta Plug 'N Play (tm)
  21. theretroprojects

    LC II sound chip needed

    So i checked everything I could, all the caps + and - sides can be traced to another point with continuity, but still no sound. I decided to remove all the caps around the sound ic and power it on (not knowing what might happen), it still powers on and boots, but still no sound, however, I do hear a quick click sound from the speaker when I power on now, didn't notice that before removing the caps. Does anyone know which caps are required for the sound to work? Looking at the schematics, pin10 from UB10 is audio-out, following this path i can only see, C10, C11 and C12, connected to the output circuit, most of the other caps are connected to the UB10 IC so could this be audio-in?
  22. Yesterday
  23. agg24

    LC Fan and Speaker Clicking

    Looking back at my recapping efforts, I had the same question of whether or not those caps were 10uF or 100uF. I ordered https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Wurth-Electronics/875105359001?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvR1wrj203KOEwKeIe4y6sVy4VYRQR%2b0T7xq1e22dz4ww%3D%3D, but the 100 on the top indicates they are 100uF, not 10uF. I suppose I was too lazy/cheap to order a new set to see if there was a difference.
  24. mdeverhart

    Dead 512k, rapid clicking?

    Nice, that’s good progress! Now you can at least start diagnosing the problems. Have you replaced the caps on the logic board yet? Can you read the code under the Sad Mac? If so, what is it?
  25. krishnadraws

    Lucky IIx acquisition

    Impressive! A night and day difference! What method of Retrobrite did you use?
  26. Mr SN

    Lucky IIx acquisition

    Today was all about Retrobrite. See the before and after below. I am still working on the MB, I have recapped, rel-flowed a few suspect chips, and it will not power on with the power button. If I use the technique with a battery to force a power on, it will power on with a discord. I tried several different sets of SIMMs to see if it is RAM. Still something wrong. It will power off with the button! Below is pre-retro with the solution on it. Here it is 5 hours later
  27. mactjaap

    Alternative LocalTalk cabling

    Cool!
  28. tattar8

    Dead 512k, rapid clicking?

    Sorry for chain-posting but I have an update, and I can't seem to be able to edit my posts here. The culprit was the floppy drive; there's apparently a short between +12v and ground somewhere in it. If I disconnect the drive, I'm greeted with a distorted bong, and a distorted Sad Mac on the screen; this seems like a logic board problem, so it looks like the analog board is now functioning.
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