A sparse page like Google takes 20 seconds? Yikes. Are you on dialup, too? I'd think even a SE/30 would do better than that.
Most of my personal pages are fairly sparse. Often the only images are the background, which is used across the entire site, so that's downloaded just once. I do some styling with CSS, but the markup is semantic, so if you don't have CSS or turn it off, they still "work" just fine.