• Hello MLAers! We've re-enabled auto-approval for accounts. If you are still waiting on account approval, please check this thread for more information.

Two Sick SE/30 Logic Boards

Mk.558,

I think there's an error on the pic of the SE/30 Trace-outs. C8 (-) does go to Pin #6 of J12, but C6 (+) actually connects with Pin #7 of UB11. And the UB11's pin-outs are not number counter-clockwise.

CC_333,

just so you know, the numbering of pins/legs on all ICs usually go in counter-clockwise rotation. So, for UB11, look for the little notch on the side of the IC (facing C4), the last leg/pin on the top right is Pin #1, then the one next to it is Pin #2, next one down the line is Pin #3, and so on. When you reach the furthest top left pin/leg (Pin # 8) , then move to the 1st bottom left pin (Pin #9), moving to the right, next in line is Pin #10, and so on.

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

 
Thank you for the correction, phreakout. I haven't done anything yet, so that saved me from causing more trouble.

c

 
Mk.558,
I think there's an error on the pic of the SE/30 Trace-outs. C8 (-) does go to Pin #6 of J12, but C6 (+) actually connects with Pin #7 of UB11. And the UB11's pin-outs are not number counter-clockwise.
Click to expand...
I'll use this as an excuse to push out rev. 2.0 of that image with better labeling and probably functions for each capacitor.

 
Mk.558: OK. I look forward to your rev. 2.0! It would be nice to know the capacitor's functions, too. In the meantime, however, I think rev. 1.0 will do just fine.

c

 
Update:

I tried reworking C8 and C6, but without success. I soldered a jumper between C6 positive and pin 6 of UB11, which apparently worked (there is sound), but there's still no video (I suspect C8, but I'm not sure what it does exactly).

I got a multimeter, so I can test for shorts and stuff.

I don't know exactly what to test, so tell me what to check and I'll check it.

c

 
Another Update:

I redid my work with C8 using smaller wire, checked everything with a continuity tester, and it still isn't working.

Would UC6, UE6, UG6, UI6, UC7, UE7 and UG7 have anything to do with video? If so, could a failure in any of those cause the symptoms I'm experiencing?

Or maybe there are other possibilities?

If anything, this is a good learning experience.

c

 
Can you verify with us that C6 and C8 are connected right? C8 (-) goes to Pin #6 of J12, and C6 (+) connects with Pin #7 of UB11. UB10 and UB11 are the two sound chips on that board.

Position the board so that the notches on the top of those chips are facing to the right. The leg/contact on the top right-hand side of UB11 and UB10 is Pin #1, next to that leg (moving to the left) is Pin #2, next to that leg (moving to the left) is Pin #3, and so on. The last pin on the top left-hand side is Pin #8, then move down to the bottom row starting with the bottom left-hand side. The first pin on the left is #9, next to that is Pin #10, next to that is Pin #11, and so on. All chips, whether they are square or rectangle, surface mounted or not, have their legs/contacts/pins numbered counter-clockwise.

Regarding UC6, UE6, UG6, UI6, UC7, UE7 and UG7, if I recall correctly, those are part of the video circuitry. There are other smaller chips that sit in-between that group, C2 and C7, that might be part of that circuit as well. The problem is that there are at least 3 different revisions of the SE/30 logic boards in its nearly 2 year existence and each may be slightly changed. One revision is in regard to boards made in Ireland; those were in fact built more reliable through using some more stable parts and better quality control.

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

 
Hi, phreakout,

C6 and C8 are verified. I checked them time and time again with a continuity tester, probing each capacitor and the appropriate pin(s) on the components they're supposed to connect to. The tester beeped, which I assume means that there's good contact among all the parts in question. I doubt the capacitors are the problem at this point.

As for the UC6, UE6, etc., I tried reseating them with no change. Could a failed one of these cause this problem? Is there a way to test them?

Also, how do I tell which revision this board is? It has a socketed CPU, if that means anything.

I feel that we're getting somewhat closer to the solution (I think?).

c

 
The boards made in Ireland are lighter in green color, have a white colored PDS slot and the Bourns network filters (RP2, RP3 and RP10) are white or thin black-white colored covers as well. Plus, obviously, there is a sticker near the ROM SIMM that says "Assembled in Ireland" plain as day.

The remaining 2 other board revisions are the darker color green, have a black colored PDS slot and the Bourns network filters (RP2, RP3 and RP10) are either dark tan/beige or brown colored. I think these boards were either assembled in Mexico, USA, China, Korea, maybe even Thailand, Philippines or Japan; it's hard to say.

Those video chips can be a real pain to extract, at least from my experience. Part of the problem I'm encountering are my soldering irons and the solder Apple used on the original parts. That solder was formulated for low temperature soldering and has silicon or not enough flux in the mixture; it turns grainy and cloudy after hardening and aging. I could really use a soldering iron tip designed to heat up and desolder those type of chips, without any damage, and fits 20 to 40 watt Weller and Radio Shack irons. After I get the chips removed and the salvaged replacements ready to go, I'll be installing chip sockets FIRST on the board, then plug the chips in their sockets. I can't stress it any further how much of a pet peeve it is for me to have chips without their sockets!! > :(
vent.gif


73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

 
Well,

As I was reseating the socketed ones, I noticed that one of them didn't mach the rest (UE6), it's thicker looking and the markings are different from the others.

I swapped it with the equivalent on the other dead board without change. By the way, the other dead board has the same exact problem.

What are the odds that both could've failed with the same problem?

Also, I actually have one of those Made in Ireland boards, except it needs to be bent a certain way in order to work (the symptoms are similar, except it's completely dead; no sound, no video). I assume it's a bad trace somewhere.

c

 
I'm working on Rev 2.0 of the capacitor diagram right now.

Note to the iBook: It's not a big deal if I spend 45 minutes trying to set up a nice drawing of a Sony Stereo Sound Chip and I go press Delete and you somehow confuse that with logging out. Of course there is a autosave function in AppleWorks but apparently that was on vacation. Bullocks -- this time we redraw the whole thing scaled up 3x (Yes I measured the sound chip and it's 6x19mm) and put nice "SONY 03E03G ..." on it.

It'll be better this time because apparently I forgot to include the half circle indentation on the last drawing, so the reference to Pin 1 was unobtainable because there was no reference mark. That's okay I look at it now and it looks all fugly anyways, polluting JDW's nice socketed motherboard image with terrible graphics. Steve Jobs would have told me off in front of a crowd for that. :disapprove:

 
OK. I await your Rev. 2.0!

Meanwhile, I've given up on the one SE/30 board (the one I've been talking about) for now, and am instead concentrating my efforts on this apparently made in Ireland board that will only work if I bend it a certain way. I've concluded that it's either a bad trace somewhere or a bad solder joint somewhere (I noticed that it gets somewhat better when it's warm, so it could be heat/age related).

I would like to get these boards working, but I'm not sure if I'm competent enough at this point to do it myself (although I'm learning fast!)

Until next time...

c

 
Does anybody want to tackle one of these boards themselves? Let me know and we can go from there.

Also, I appreciate all the wonderful help I've gotten here.

Thank you very much!

c

 
Great!

That would be nice. I have two (hence the topic name), but I will deal with the one which I tried to rework (and therefore should technically function properly, if not for this latent and as of yet unknown problem).

I guess I'll mail it??

It'll figure itself out, I suppose...

c

 
I would send them both. What you may think is one way, but could be different than the boards actual condition. I am in the states, and send me a PM.

Reason I say this, if it comes down to being a rare or impossible chip to replace thats actually bad, it may be a different chip on the opposite board, and i could make 1 board work from 2.

Then again, i could fix both of them. Never know.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

K
Macintosh SE/30 battery leaking
Replies
3
Views
199
bibilit
bibilit
H
Macintosh SE/30 garbled screen
Replies
11
Views
339
Huttles
H
Z
Mac Classic -- horizontal bars after recap, -12V problem
Replies
8
Views
2K
davidg5678
davidg5678
M
Mac SE no bong, no display. not getting anywhere with troubleshooting
2
Replies
27
Views
1K
marcocet
M
D
White haze all over bottom of logic board?
Replies
5
Views
894
djc6
D
Back
Top