That is good to know. Do you recall there being any capacitors on the floppy drive? I know it will definitely have to be cleaned and oiled eventually.
SE/30 worked until it didn't
- Thread starter just.in.time
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There are a couple of caps on the floppy drive, yes, but nothing to worry about for now. They will go bad at some point, but I have never seen bad caps on FDD, at least for now...
But you should definitely clean and lube that drive once you get the /30 running.
But you should definitely clean and lube that drive once you get the /30 running.
Awesome, I'll make that happen. Might practice on the SE FDHD first to make sure I got the process of lining it back up. SE/30 logic board, PSU, and analog board will most likely get sent out for recapping this coming Monday. I'll update here when everything is back and it is all up and running.
Does anyone have a link to the Apple Service Bulletin describing how to safely discharge the CRT on the older compact Macs that didn't have the self-discharge-in-10-minutes circuit? I believe the SE/30 was the last one to NOT have that, correct? Haha not getting shocked is my goal here. I have a rough idea of what to do, but was just curious as to what Apple told their service reps to do back in the day.
Does anyone have a link to the Apple Service Bulletin describing how to safely discharge the CRT on the older compact Macs that didn't have the self-discharge-in-10-minutes circuit? I believe the SE/30 was the last one to NOT have that, correct? Haha not getting shocked is my goal here. I have a rough idea of what to do, but was just curious as to what Apple told their service reps to do back in the day.
There you are: http://www.biwa.ne.jp/~shamada/fullmac/repairEng.html#DischargeCRT
It's not exactly an Apple Service document but it's even better.
Honestly it's not that big a deal. Just let it sit in one corner UNPLUGGED 'till Sunday evening and there won't be much juice left in that lil puppy.
Technically, all SEs and SE/30s have bleeder type flyback transformers. So it should drain itself when flipping the switch.
As explained in that guide, you don't really need a resistor to build that tool.
I created mine using a flat head 'driver, two crocodile clips and two wires. It works great.
It's not exactly an Apple Service document but it's even better.
Honestly it's not that big a deal. Just let it sit in one corner UNPLUGGED 'till Sunday evening and there won't be much juice left in that lil puppy.
Technically, all SEs and SE/30s have bleeder type flyback transformers. So it should drain itself when flipping the switch.
As explained in that guide, you don't really need a resistor to build that tool.
I created mine using a flat head 'driver, two crocodile clips and two wires. It works great.
Err.... No. The Classic and Classic II do, and the later year SE and SE\30's. But not all of them do The same with the Mac 512Ke and Pluses; only the later year models have them. This is the issue. You need to open it up and look at the Fly Back transformer and see:
-If it is round then it is one of the dangerous ones without the bleeder resistor.
-If it round with a square-ish like block on the side where the wire comes out from, then it is one of the safe ones with the bleeder resistor on it.
Do note, that in this day and age, though many fly back transformers may have been replaced over the years in the older machines, many would be the safer bleeder resistor transformer. But this is not always the case, as there are many of the older dangerous type sitting around as NOS (New Old Stock; ie: parts in storage yet to be used) parts. And some of them also made it into repairing old Macs.
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Thank you everyone.
Elfen, I should be able to get a photo of the analog board tomorrow and I'll post it here so we can figure out which version I have.
Elfen, I should be able to get a photo of the analog board tomorrow and I'll post it here so we can figure out which version I have.
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