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Modern G4 Cube PSU replacement?
- Thread starter stormy
- Start date
All Guru,
I just have a question. I found a modern one, 24V 3A. I tested with multimeter found out that the polarity of all prongs are in the opposite with apple power mac g4 cube adapter as shown in figure. I put it in cube and it fit perfectly (without electrical).
My questions are as follows;
1. I can't use that adapter with cube unless I find the way to change its polarity to match exactly with cube's polarity or it will destroy my cube. Am I correct?
2. Suppose I can switch all polarity matching cube's original adapter, is it safe to use new adapter with cube? I noticed that even voltage is pretty close to 28V but it has only 3A while cube's adapter said 7.3A.
Thank you in advance.
I just have a question. I found a modern one, 24V 3A. I tested with multimeter found out that the polarity of all prongs are in the opposite with apple power mac g4 cube adapter as shown in figure. I put it in cube and it fit perfectly (without electrical).
My questions are as follows;
1. I can't use that adapter with cube unless I find the way to change its polarity to match exactly with cube's polarity or it will destroy my cube. Am I correct?
2. Suppose I can switch all polarity matching cube's original adapter, is it safe to use new adapter with cube? I noticed that even voltage is pretty close to 28V but it has only 3A while cube's adapter said 7.3A.
Thank you in advance.
Welcome KMM, it’s not enough to power the Cube even when you switch polarity of the pins. A Cube with an SSD and not using ADC would not draw as many amps but far from half. I’d keep the connector and find a bench mounted PSU as referenced prior to power you Cube.
Byrd,
Thank you very much for your kind.
I'm confusing since you said that my adapter (28V, 3A) would not enough to power the Cube. I won't use ADC monitor.
On the first page, Stormy had confirmed that 80Watt TDK PSU which has 28VDC, 2.86A, 80Watt, similar to mine, worked. Please explain more to me. I really appreciate all helps.
Thanks.
Can you show us the actual wiring you did here. I have a G4 power supply wire, which only has 3 cables: Red, Black, &White.
Never mind. I just pulled things apart and realized that the 2 pairs of V wires are combined inside.
Sorry I missed the post with your question. I don't remember the color code, but using the color code on the cable may not be the safest way to wire this up anyway. Best thing to do would be to use a multimeter to verify the continuity (ohms mode) shown in KMMs post above, then check the voltages after the wiring is complete before plugging it back into the Mac.
Just wanted to share what I did, found a 24v 150w led driver on Amazon for about $12. The fit was juuust right, making it somewhat easy to fit it in the original casing. Speaking of which, i simply pulled the sides off using only my fingers, pulling on one side until the clip on that side snapped. Put it back together using strong double sided tape. I’m happy with how it came out and took probably 20mins all in all.
This is the power supply I used: https://a.co/d/02dAtsZ9
This is the power supply I used: https://a.co/d/02dAtsZ9
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Digging up this thread as I just got my very own Cube, but it came without any kind of PSU. No ACD either, so I'm not super concerned with hitting maximum deliverable power. For a seemingly stock 450mhz model (GPU is a Rage 128), what's my requirements? Would 24V 5A (with appropriate cord) do the job?
I’m using an ENP-240-24. You can dial it up to 28V.
I’m running an NVIDIA GPU and a bigger display and it seems to work. My VRM died as well, so I bought one of those update ones.
Hey there, just looking for a bit of confirmation on a PSU project for my Cube, as I've not done this kind of electrical work before...
As mentioned above, I got a Cube without a PSU, but locally I found for free an FSP Group 24v 7.5A PSU, which had the correct plug, but reversed polarities. Very similar to this Reddit thread but mine has higher A. Trying to take the plug apart was a total failure, so now I've got an end like this
The bare wire is given as GND on the pinout and was connected to two plugs and the casing, while the white was connected to the other two and given as V+ (same Pinout as in the Reddit thread above). Because the GND was connected to the casing, I couldn't just reverse the polarities in the cord as it would had made the casing +.
From recommendation in this thread, I picked up two (in order to have a spare) Kycon plugs from Mouser.
My plan is to split the wires, creating two N threads and two + threads, mostly cover them with heat shrink, solder them to the appropriate pins, and then build the plug. Aside from this general plan, my question before starting is whether I need to connect anything to the casing. In the images previously in the thread, 2 pins are given as +, 2 as -, and the casing as ground. All my electrical experience is home stuff (plugs, fans, switches) where the ground is a separate wire, but I don't seem to have that here, so I want to check before moving forward. Appreciate any insight y'all can provide!
As mentioned above, I got a Cube without a PSU, but locally I found for free an FSP Group 24v 7.5A PSU, which had the correct plug, but reversed polarities. Very similar to this Reddit thread but mine has higher A. Trying to take the plug apart was a total failure, so now I've got an end like this
The bare wire is given as GND on the pinout and was connected to two plugs and the casing, while the white was connected to the other two and given as V+ (same Pinout as in the Reddit thread above). Because the GND was connected to the casing, I couldn't just reverse the polarities in the cord as it would had made the casing +.
From recommendation in this thread, I picked up two (in order to have a spare) Kycon plugs from Mouser.
My plan is to split the wires, creating two N threads and two + threads, mostly cover them with heat shrink, solder them to the appropriate pins, and then build the plug. Aside from this general plan, my question before starting is whether I need to connect anything to the casing. In the images previously in the thread, 2 pins are given as +, 2 as -, and the casing as ground. All my electrical experience is home stuff (plugs, fans, switches) where the ground is a separate wire, but I don't seem to have that here, so I want to check before moving forward. Appreciate any insight y'all can provide!
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