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Machintosh Classic II Sound Issue

Hi Everyone,

I recently began a hobby project of resurrecting a Classic II that I bought at my elementary school's yard sale 20 years ago (for the equivalent of about 2 dollars). It was working fine for a few years, but it hasn't been able to boot for a good 15 years. I have close to zero experience with such repairs (or soldering), but tried my best to read up on the matter. I think I made good progress, but I can't quite figure out a reason why there's no sound coming out of it, not from the internal speaker, nor the jack output.

What I did so far:

There was a lot of capacitor juice on the logic board, and some on the analog board, but very minimal corrosion was visible, and the battery bomb from '92 hasn't detonated either. Cleaning the logic board got me from tiny jailbars to the startup question mark screen, and after fully recapping the logic board and the analog board (except for the big 220 μF 400V one on the analog board), the SCSI drive spun up and it actually booted. It was just as I left it. I so was happy to find some childhood drawings and notes of mine. I feel lucky that both the SCSI and the floppy drives seem to be working just fine. No sound whatsoever though.

Now, I did mess up recapping C15, as I lifted both pads, and that one coincidentally goes to the sound chip. I tried to solder to the traces during my initial go, and after I noticed the sound issue, I inspected it again with a multimeter this time. One of my solderings seemed a bit unstable, so I made the world's ugliest jumper wire job directly to one of the legs of the sound chip that the trace seemed to go into (and which did produce connectivity with my first trace soldering when pressing down the cap a bit). The good news is that the thing didn't explode after my hatchet job of repair attempt, but I still have no sound.

I'd also like to mention that I tried checking the logic board schematics, but it's a bit greek to me. From what I can see, both poles of C15 connect with multiple legs of the sound chip (I don't know which number is which in practice) which they do seem to be doing now.

Seeing as how both the internal speaker and the jack output is out (and assuming C15 is fine-ish), my best guess is that the next step should be desoldering the sound chip, cleaning up any potential goop underneath and resoldering it, but I want to make abosolutely sure before I try something like that. Does anybody know what else I could check for, or tell me which cap end should connect with which legs of the sound chip? Or if someone has a picture of where the traces go underneath the chip, that could also be of use.

I'd really appreciate any help you could give me, and I can say that after years of neglect I'll never leave my little machine in such a state again; in fact, I have big plans for it, having already ordered 4MB RAM SIMMs and a BlueSCSI v2 with the Wi-Fi thing.

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Hi first, i will clean the board again, i can see a lot of dark spots in the DFAC legs (which is the Sound Chip) flip the card and look for broken traces in the other side of the board.. been there


if nothing obvious, yes i will lift the chip nd clean underneath.
 
Thanks. The backside to me seems pristine. On the front, I see three traces that are sus, but all of them run between the modem or the printer driver chips and their outputs. That's something I can live without, assuming the BlueSCSI Pico-W works.

What I found with a multimeter is that while all caps that should do connect to the chip now, I see the connections on all 28 legs of the chip. I'm not an expert of reading schematics, but if I'm correct, at least 2+2 legs should go into analog ground only and not connect with the rest in any way, right?

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Also, the multimeter shows that C62, which is between the ground and legs 3&4 also connects with any of the 28 legs of the chip. Or is that normal, because even they are connected to the rest on the inside in some way?
 
Hi first, i will clean the board again, i can see a lot of dark spots in the DFAC legs (which is the Sound Chip) flip the card and look for broken traces in the other side of the board.. been there
I gave it a good clean again and resoldered C15 to the traces, and turned it on without expectations... AND IT ACTUALLY CHIMED! I'm so happy rn.

Also I would hereby like to formally nominate my work as the world's ugliest sound troubleshooting job that worked. While my soldering alone lacks structural integrity, I'm very proficient with superglue.

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I did hear a constant quiet high-pitched humming noise after the startup, no doubt it's because of my shoddy soldering, but if it's not dangerous to the components, maybe that's something I can learn to live with. Honestly I'm afraid to touch the LB now, this is the absolute best I'm able to do.
 
While my soldering alone lacks structural integrity, I'm very proficient with superglue.
Never use glue to attach components to the PCB.
Your joints look wrinkly, next time actually use flux and more heat on the iron. A good solder joint is smooth and shiny.
 
glue?? who hurt you?

It was capacitor C15. It traumatized me, but I beat it into submission in the end.

Btw I did use flux, and it worked like a charm with the through hole capacitors on the analog board. You couldn't even tell which birdseed on the bottom was done by me and which by Malaysian factory workers in the early 90's.

But these tiny pads and especially those thin-ass trace wires... It's kinda beyond my skills, that's why I brute forced it. BUT, since it worked, I can't help but be proud of myself to some degree. The glue is mostly at the top of the caps though, to act as structural support, not directly on the PCB.
 
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