Lisa 2/10 kill switch question

[mst3k]

There are two plastic pegs that attach the 'kill' switch on my Lisa 2/10 to the small plastic mount that screws into the frame on the front of the machine.
The front cover then fits into a slot in that mount that closes the switch and allows the machine to boot, preventing the machine from booting with the front cover removed.
I am going to try gluing the switch back in place inside the plastic mount, but my question is about the switch itself.
Other than the obvious safety reasons Apple implemented to keep stray hands from getting inside the machine when it is 'on', is there any other reason why i can't simply eliminate the switch and attach the two wires together or tape the switch closed? Has anybody here simply bypassed the switch?
I'm thinking more about a temporary fix to keep using the machine in the event I need to locate another switch as I am dubious that gluing will work.
Thanks

 

[stepleton]

It took me a while to know what you were referring to, as I would ordinarily call this a "panel interlock switch" or similar. But "kill switch" is accurate.

Anyway, if you wish to defeat the interlock by any of the means you've suggested, they will all work exactly as you intend. Safety is the only reason I'm aware of for Apple fitting the switches (there are two of them, though it sounds like you're describing the one behind the front cover), and defeating the interlock is a typical thing to do for a variety of repair and adjustment operations. If you do run your Lisa with the covers off, be certain you know and mitigate the associated risks to yourself and to the computer.

 

[mst3k]

(there are two of them, though it sounds like you're describing the one behind the front cover)

Thanks stepleton. Yes. the front cover switch. The actual switch is loose inside the mount.
I for the life of me could not figure out any other reason than safety (which is not a bad reason), but thought it worth asking.
The previous owner of this Lisa said it powered on, but I can't get it to show any signs of life. I'm started with the kill switches on the front and PSU, which I have both bypassed, but still no signs of life. I guess my next stop is reseating all the boards. Is there a simple way to tell if the PSU is actually functioning and producing the correct voltages. The compact Macs are ez to check on the external fdd port, but NO idea how to check on the Lisa and currently no other machine to try it in. This is a 2/10 with the 1.8 amp, 150w PSU. Then I suppose it's on to the power switch itself.
Any suggestions would be appreciated!