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I want to do this...
- Thread starter MinerAl
- Start date
The 10" color CRT has a huge board inside, that'll make using it anywhere other than it's original case something unpleasant. It (predictably) won't bolt into the original holes inside the classic anyway, so it's more work than I'm willing to mess with.
Guess I'm looking for an Apple 12" Monochrome monitor now for this hack.
I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on my case-lift though, so at the very least it'll be a Classic II with a c.'94 style.
I am going to try to make a 475 out of my busted-case Q605 and my lovely working P460. Then the 605's case will be hack fodder
Guess I'm looking for an Apple 12" Monochrome monitor now for this hack.
I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on my case-lift though, so at the very least it'll be a Classic II with a c.'94 style.
I am going to try to make a 475 out of my busted-case Q605 and my lovely working P460. Then the 605's case will be hack fodder
Does the monitor's manual have an exploded parts diagram you could scan & post?
Trash: nope. I should've taken pics when it was apart.
Just bought a 9" SVGA monochrome monitor. We'll see if it survives being shipped. I have high hopes! I also have high pessimism. So I'm balanced. :/
Just bought a 9" SVGA monochrome monitor. We'll see if it survives being shipped. I have high hopes! I also have high pessimism. So I'm balanced. :/
That's a lovely little monitor, Al. If you don't need the plastics, I've got a great idea for a hack. I've been playing with the 6100 BezelBits and that monitor case, sans tilt-n-swivel base, would fit just about perfectly on top of it. [}] ]'>
Let me know the front bezel specs and depth when it arrives, please! ;D
] ]'>Let me know the front bezel specs and depth when it arrives, please! ;D
So, in spite of a few setbacks, I'm thinking now about how I'm going to get everything out the back of the box.
When the LC sized logic board is slid (slided?) all the way to the front of the case, there is about two inches left between the ports and the holes in the back of the case for the (very differently located) Classic II ports.
I'm thinking that I can solve two problems at once by making a little < 2" wide card that moves all the ports over to their correct places on the back of the case. I could (I hope) then position the Ethernet jack behind the now pointless external floppy hole, and make a VGA header or upward-facing VGA plug to send the video up to the innards of the 9" mono monitor.
My other option is carving a big rectangle all the way across the back of the Classic II's port holes for access to the ports, and having a video cable that reenters the case in an ugly fashion. I have seen people make little boards for other projects (there was a particularly well done mini in a Plus mod with what I'm talking about), but have never done such a thing myself.
So what I want is a 813/16" x 2" (223mm x 50mm) board with the correct SCSI, Serial, ADB, and audio ports (probably cannibalized off of the Classic II's dead logic board), in the correct Classic II positions on one 813/16" edge, with either headers & custom cabling, or the opposite gender of the same ports in the LC positions on the other edge. I'm thinking headers and custom cabling is more in my ballpark, since I'd have to source male serial and ADB ports, which would be... difficult. Maybe a combo, with the fairly big and central SCSI actually having a male DB-25 that screws in (providing mechanical support as a bonus), and everything else headers with spliced cables to simplify the routing.
How does one begin the process? I know I'll need to make a parts list and do some very precise measuring. Is there an app? Is there a guy I should ask to do it for er... help me?
I'm hoping one of the accomplished soldering-iron wielders around here will be able to assemble it for me, because I am more likely to end up in the emergency room than end up with a useful product if I try to solder it myself.
When the LC sized logic board is slid (slided?) all the way to the front of the case, there is about two inches left between the ports and the holes in the back of the case for the (very differently located) Classic II ports.
I'm thinking that I can solve two problems at once by making a little < 2" wide card that moves all the ports over to their correct places on the back of the case. I could (I hope) then position the Ethernet jack behind the now pointless external floppy hole, and make a VGA header or upward-facing VGA plug to send the video up to the innards of the 9" mono monitor.
My other option is carving a big rectangle all the way across the back of the Classic II's port holes for access to the ports, and having a video cable that reenters the case in an ugly fashion. I have seen people make little boards for other projects (there was a particularly well done mini in a Plus mod with what I'm talking about), but have never done such a thing myself.
So what I want is a 813/16" x 2" (223mm x 50mm) board with the correct SCSI, Serial, ADB, and audio ports (probably cannibalized off of the Classic II's dead logic board), in the correct Classic II positions on one 813/16" edge, with either headers & custom cabling, or the opposite gender of the same ports in the LC positions on the other edge. I'm thinking headers and custom cabling is more in my ballpark, since I'd have to source male serial and ADB ports, which would be... difficult. Maybe a combo, with the fairly big and central SCSI actually having a male DB-25 that screws in (providing mechanical support as a bonus), and everything else headers with spliced cables to simplify the routing.
How does one begin the process? I know I'll need to make a parts list and do some very precise measuring. Is there an app? Is there a guy I should ask to do it for er... help me?
I'm hoping one of the accomplished soldering-iron wielders around here will be able to assemble it for me, because I am more likely to end up in the emergency room than end up with a useful product if I try to solder it myself.
Just cut off the back portion off the DOA Classic MoBo. You can lop off cables and solder the wires to the thruhole solder connections underneath each connector.
The VGA connection shouldn't be difficult either, what resolutions does the monitor support? You can wire the Mac->VGA conversion settings right there in the adapter harness.
The VGA connection shouldn't be difficult either, what resolutions does the monitor support? You can wire the Mac->VGA conversion settings right there in the adapter harness.
The D-Sub connector's pins are staggered and won't work on perf or I would have suggested it. I haven't checked, but everything may not even be on .100 centers to begin with anyway. I've seen a couple of really well done hacks that have used sections of the original PCBs, right up to and including the MoBo and A/B of a compact Mac for one mod.
If it's dead already, it's dead anyway . . .
. . . so recycle by re-use instead of creating even more landfill and using more new resources in the process, at least he knows it'll fit! :-/
If it's dead already, it's dead anyway . . .
. . . so recycle by re-use instead of creating even more landfill and using more new resources in the process, at least he knows it'll fit! :-/
So the 9" monochrome SVGA monitor arrived today (Saturday at work actually) and I was a little concerned at its condition. The tube was pushed in from the bezel by at least a 1/4" on the upper right side, and a little less on the left.
Rather than text it's functionality at that point, like I should've, I tore into the case to see if anything was amiss inside. The upper right (now left from the inside) screw through the mounting bracket was still screwed into plastic, but that plastic had broken away from the rest of the bezel. The other upper screw was loose; the plastic bit that was broken-off the other side was just stripped here. The bottom two were still solidly attached to the bezel, and all the electronics looked fine. Still, something traumatic enough to break the top tube supports has happened to this device...
Rather than test the functionality at this point, like I should've, I measured the support brackets and was thrilled to find that they were 8" and 6" apart, just like the Classic's. So naturally I had to completely dismantle the monitor, and test the tube for fit in the Classic.
Perfect fit. No gaps, solid as a rock. Excellent.
The monitor's "analog board" will need some wire lengthening if I'm going to squeeze it in on the correct side of the tube, but I'm not convinced that'll be necessary.
Rather than test the functionality at this point, like I should've, I came here and wrote a post about it instead.
So now it's just to test the functionality of the monitor in it's new Classic case.
Rather than text it's functionality at that point, like I should've, I tore into the case to see if anything was amiss inside. The upper right (now left from the inside) screw through the mounting bracket was still screwed into plastic, but that plastic had broken away from the rest of the bezel. The other upper screw was loose; the plastic bit that was broken-off the other side was just stripped here. The bottom two were still solidly attached to the bezel, and all the electronics looked fine. Still, something traumatic enough to break the top tube supports has happened to this device...
Rather than test the functionality at this point, like I should've, I measured the support brackets and was thrilled to find that they were 8" and 6" apart, just like the Classic's. So naturally I had to completely dismantle the monitor, and test the tube for fit in the Classic.
Perfect fit. No gaps, solid as a rock. Excellent.
The monitor's "analog board" will need some wire lengthening if I'm going to squeeze it in on the correct side of the tube, but I'm not convinced that'll be necessary.
Rather than test the functionality at this point, like I should've, I came here and wrote a post about it instead.
So now it's just to test the functionality of the monitor in it's new Classic case.
Here's my to do for the monitor board:
A - it fits so nicely!
B - need to remove and/or bridge the power switch so it'll come on with the main power switch on the Classic's back. It is a physical switch so I could just leave it pushed, but I'd rather be tidy. Probably also lose the LED
C - in final install I'll have a much more internal solution for getting video signal to the AB. Hopefully from a header on my little port-repositioning board right to the AB's header in the little circle.
D - in final install I'll run power leads over to the one main switch.
E - (not labeled) I'll need to figure out where/how to mount this inside the Classic. The board almost, but not quite slides over to the right side, a couple of the wires from the board to the neck/yoke are a hair too short. Should there be a problem if I carefully remove those leads, and replace them with longer ones of the same gauge?
F - (not labeled) I need to mess with the tiny phillips headed pots on the board to scale and center the picture on the screen.
G - (not labeled) Lots of stuff I haven't thought of yet.
Thoughts?
A - it fits so nicely!
B - need to remove and/or bridge the power switch so it'll come on with the main power switch on the Classic's back. It is a physical switch so I could just leave it pushed, but I'd rather be tidy. Probably also lose the LED
C - in final install I'll have a much more internal solution for getting video signal to the AB. Hopefully from a header on my little port-repositioning board right to the AB's header in the little circle.
D - in final install I'll run power leads over to the one main switch.
E - (not labeled) I'll need to figure out where/how to mount this inside the Classic. The board almost, but not quite slides over to the right side, a couple of the wires from the board to the neck/yoke are a hair too short. Should there be a problem if I carefully remove those leads, and replace them with longer ones of the same gauge?
F - (not labeled) I need to mess with the tiny phillips headed pots on the board to scale and center the picture on the screen.
G - (not labeled) Lots of stuff I haven't thought of yet.
Thoughts?
It's a fairly Apple looking case... a little softer on the corner radii, but close. Good and scratched up, with a dent/gouge in it's forehead, but nothing bondo and elbow grease couldn't fix. The missing support screw-hole could probably be accomplished with gorilla glue or something.That's a lovely little monitor, Al. If you don't need the plastics, I've got a great idea for a hack. I've been playing with the 6100 BezelBits and that monitor case, sans tilt-n-swivel base, would fit just about perfectly on top of it. [}
Let me know the front bezel specs and depth when it arrives, please! ;D
Front bezel: 91/4" wide X 73/16" tall
Front bezel inside edge (at the tube): 73/16" wide X 53/16" tall
Depth front to back: 93/4"
It's perfect for my purposes, please PM me a price if you decide it needs to be recycled into a new hack . . .
. . . that you don't particularly want to do yourself. :approve: ;D
. . . that you don't particularly want to do yourself. :approve: ;D
Yep if there wasn't a "chin" under the bezel, and if the corners were sharper and all the angles were right-angles on the back box it would be a very convincing mini Apple 12" Hi-Res mono monitor.
I've had it on for a few minutes now, and the actual monitor (not the case) is really quite lovely. I'm running the P460 board at 640x480@60 and thousands of "colors." Very smooth looking. Love the grayscale striped apple menu.
Definitely need to mess with the adjustments. No biggie, but the picture is too close to the top left, and could be wider/taller for my tastes.
I wish my 605 board hadn't pooped out on me, I'd love to see how/if it handles 800x600 and 1024x768.
I guess I could attach it to something *gasp* PC to see what it can do... nah.
I've had it on for a few minutes now, and the actual monitor (not the case) is really quite lovely. I'm running the P460 board at 640x480@60 and thousands of "colors." Very smooth looking. Love the grayscale striped apple menu.
Definitely need to mess with the adjustments. No biggie, but the picture is too close to the top left, and could be wider/taller for my tastes.
I wish my 605 board hadn't pooped out on me, I'd love to see how/if it handles 800x600 and 1024x768.
I guess I could attach it to something *gasp* PC to see what it can do... nah.
Yep, mini 12" RGB 'za topper was my very first thought when you linked to the auction.
Bondo can cover far more than just a single sin. }
How does the 9" Classic CRT look in the VGA bezel?
Bondo can cover far more than just a single sin. }
How does the 9" Classic CRT look in the VGA bezel?
I would assume, since the VGA tube fits perfectly in the Classic bezel, transitively, the Classic's tube would fit the VGA's bezel perfectly too. The Classic's AB will not fit inside the cute little faux-12 though.
Do you want the Classic's tube installed when I send it?
You making a mini LC with Classic parts?
