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Getting my Portable going again - hard disk options?

I have a portable that's been in my garage storage for about 15 years. I just had the battery rebuilt with new cells, and that seems fine. However, the Conner 40MB disk seems to spin up, spin down, spin up, spin down several times. Sometimes it stays spining and boots the system. Maybe a new drive would do me some good?

Where can I find a new (old) drive for this? Or is there an EASY way to convert a different drive? Looks like the SCSI connector may be the big issue if I cannot find the Conner CP3045 disk like I have.

 
The connector is a bit of a challenge, but once you get over that hurdle, you can use any normal scsi drive. I've modded my Portables to use standard drives.

The pinout differences are fortunately documented by Apple, and can be found in the manuals for the Portable, among other places. Disassemble the header at the drive end and remove the ribbon cable. Scramble the wires as needed to function with a standard 50-pin SCSI header. There aren't that many that need to be separated and rerouted, thankfully, although the result will not look all that nice.

The last hurdle has to do with termination. The first time I did the mod, I thought I'd wired things wrong, because the drive was not recognized. The connections turned out not to be the problem. The CP3045 has some special low-power terminations on a couple of the control lines (I no longer remember which ones, but I can dig up the docs, given some time). The necessary pullups are ~1kilohm resistors to +5V. After adding those, the drive was recognized, and everything worked great from there.

 
Yeah that could be an issue. I called them and someone answered and did say it was "Micromac". However they don't sell that item any more.

 
Do a Google search. There are a couple of pages I've browsed across which offer explicit instructions about how to adapt standard SCSI drive to the unique Portable low-power connector.

 
If you want to use a regular SCSI drive I recommend one of the Quantum ProDrive LPS units that was common in the pizza box LCs. It's pretty easy to find these drives as many were pulled from these computers in favor of higher capacity drives. Most of the ones I've seen are 40MB and 80MB but I have one that's 2GB (not sure if it's actually called a ProDrive but it looks and sounds identical).

There is another Quantum drive from that era called the EPS that looks the same but is noisier and seems more prone to failure. Check the letters on the label.

If you get an Apple-branded one from an LC or other early 1990s machine it should have a red sticker with a date of 1990 and a tag with the word "EPROM" on it.

The 40MB Connors from the Classics and LCs are also good choices but aren't as fast as the Quantums.

Avoid a pre-1990 Quantum. I've seen many fail, especially the 80MB drives. They are also bulkier and noisier than the later LPS.

 
There is another Quantum drive from that era called the EPS that looks the same but is noisier and seems more prone to failure. Check the letters on the label.
ELS, actually. ;) And yeah - I concur with you on how bad they are - I've owned four of them over the years, none of which have lived to see today.

 
The last hurdle has to do with termination. The first time I did the mod, I thought I'd wired things wrong, because the drive was not recognized. The connections turned out not to be the problem. The CP3045 has some special low-power terminations on a couple of the control lines (I no longer remember which ones, but I can dig up the docs, given some time). The necessary pullups are ~1kilohm resistors to +5V. After adding those, the drive was recognized, and everything worked great from there.
Yes, the pin-out conversion docs I've seen don't mention the terminiation issue. So I just put some resistors inline with a couple pins on the connector? Sorry, I'm a bit of an electronics newbie.

 
Yes, the pin-out conversion docs I've seen don't mention the terminiation issue. So I just put some resistors inline with a couple pins on the connector? Sorry, I'm a bit of an electronics newbie.
SCSI terminations are "shunt" terminations, meaning that they are in parallel with a signal line, not in series with it. In this case, it would be a pullup resistor from the line to a suitable DC supply. Kosher SCSI would have it go to about 3V, but a weak pullup to +5 often works. I don't remember at the moment what I did in this particular case, but I think it was a simple, single resistor to +5. Let me get a round tuit, and I'll try to dig up my old notes on the mod that I did.

 
Just when I was thinking that you might have finished with your round tuit for the moment. So much for my hope of getting it from you for a while.

de

 
There is another Quantum drive from that era called the EPS that looks the same but is noisier and seems more prone to failure. Check the letters on the label.
If you get an Apple-branded one from an LC or other early 1990s machine it should have a red sticker with a date of 1990 and a tag with the word "EPROM" on it.

The 40MB Connors from the Classics and LCs are also good choices but aren't as fast as the Quantums.

Avoid a pre-1990 Quantum. I've seen many fail, especially the 80MB drives. They are also bulkier and noisier than the later LPS.
I have a Quantum ProDrive EPS, 80MB with the red sticker, and I've seen great results out of it. I recently had it running as the main drive for an IRC server project I had going in one of my PC's. (It was also NTFS then too :p

Windows's Error Checking and CHKDSK found no problems with it.

I don't know, I've never had a Quantum ever fail on me, and expect this little bugger to run for another 5 years or so. This, is thanks to a dead Mac Classic II. :D

 
I have a portable that's been in my garage storage for about 15 years. I just had the battery rebuilt with new cells, and that seems fine. However, the Conner 40MB disk seems to spin up, spin down, spin up, spin down several times. Sometimes it stays spining and boots the system. Maybe a new drive would do me some good?
Where can I find a new (old) drive for this? Or is there an EASY way to convert a different drive? Looks like the SCSI connector may be the big issue if I cannot find the Conner CP3045 disk like I have.
I would look on eBay maybe. Or substitute a HD from another old Mac that you aren't using.

 
I will post some graphics and photos I made about that adapter for my own page later on - in fact it's quite easy to make one of these on your own.

Regarding termination within the Portable there is a simply answer: as long as the Portable only has one (!!!) SCSI port the termination of the hard drive is done by the Portable itself, so You do not have to (and actually mustn't) terminate the drive itself by using jumpers. Just put the drive in (remember that the SCSI ID should be set via jumpers before...) and close the box.

J

 
Ok, here we go:

there are two basic priniples on how You can make Your own adapter. The first one is to use the original cable and connecting it to antoher one by drilling together / soldering and the second one consists of using completly new parts (which I recommend).

Basics:

Connection types

On top of this first image there is the soldering / drilling together solution, the lower one is the adapter made of completly new parts. This one does not only look better but is more reliable.

Soldered together

This one shows the "drilled together" solution. Basically You have to cut the board connector (not disk connector) off the original cable and You will have to connect each single cable to a new one. This can be done by soldering or simply drilling together the corresponding thin cables. Remember to isolate each connection thoroughly!

Connecting cables to the socket

This one shows the "easier" way. By getting Yourself completly new parts You avoid to destroy the original one (just in case You should find an original Portable drive in working condition one day.... just joking ;-) ). Within this techinique You * can * avoid any soldering. The trick here is to connect each thin cable to it´s corresponding 50 pin disk connector by simply pressing it between the cutting edge pin connector with a thin screwdriver. The only thing You * might * have to solder is the power supply connector but this is really easy.

Material needed:

Depending on the way You want to go You will need the original cable and additional new stuff or just new stuff. In both cases You will have to get Yourself a 34 pin cable with a 34 pin IDC-Socket connector. Cables with connectors like these can be found in Windows PC systems: it´s the floppy drive cable connection ;-) . Last but not (the) least You will need a standard power supply connector for internal drives. All this together can be bought for 10 Dollars or even less. If You don´t want to solder anything then You will have to get an 50 pin IDC-socket connector for flatband cables.

My way:

I´ve chosen the way with completly new material. So I spreaded every single thin cable at the one end of the 34 pin flatband cable. After this I opened the 50 pin socket connector and pressed every single thin cable into it´s corresponding pin connector on the 50 pin socket. Avoid hard pulling - until the 50 pin socket connector isn´t closed again, these cables easily tend to flip off their connection! Cut off any cable ends. Now connect all the remaining thin cables to the power connector.

Schematics:

I´m providing two schematics here for easier understanding which cable has to go where.

"3D" illustration

This is some sort of "3D" schematics for people who are not very familiar with "2D abstraction" (that´s what I tend to call it). Please note the following (translated from the german titlings in this graphic): "Führungsnut" stands for that little guidance block atop of each socket connector. Take care on how these socket connectors are facing You in order to determine the positioning of Pin 1 up to 34 (or 50)! Also note that only ONE thin cable is marked with red color. This one is marked with red color on most flatband cables, too! Also note the positioning of the power connector!

2D schematics

Now this is a standard 2D graphic. Again "Führungsnut" stands for that little guidance block atop of each socketconnector. "Stromstecker" stands for power connection socket. "Stecker" just stands for socket connector.

Hope this helps a bit.

But another hint: My Portables refused to work with drives larger than 100 MB! This might apply for You, too so think of using smaller drives first.

J

 
Two more additions:

In case Your Portable utilizes a Connor CP4010A hard disk there is another posibility to "repair" that drive. Although very hard to find sometimes on eBay and alike there is another drive popping up: the Connor CP3045A with a regular 50 pin connector board attached to it from older PC systems. Just carefully srew off the controller board from that CP3045A drive and exchange it with the controller board from the original CP4010A drive - should work.

You should consider to give the future internal drive the SCSI ID "0" - makes it MUCH easier to remember that ID and assigning corresponding IDs to any external drives ;-)

J

 
And my last addition:

While reading Your first post all over again I decided to pull out my Portable again to see what else might cause Your spin up and down. As long as Your hard disk spinning doesn´t sound VERY strange (like disk clicking, scratching noises and else) just decide to shut it down and connect the Portable to the power supply for more than at least 6 hours. Try to boot up that box again afterwards.

The Portable is very picky about power supply ratings so after some time of no usage (and sometimes even with rebuilt / remade battery) the alltogether power supply of battery, 9 Volt block cell and external power block doesn´t provide as much voltage as the Portable needs when booting up. Just give it a try by waiting for some hours.

J

 
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