• Hello MLAers! We've re-enabled auto-approval for accounts. If you are still waiting on account approval, please check this thread for more information.

Colour Classic Not Booting After Correct Sequence & Recap

Thanks for the replies, I'll have to dig out the multimeter and figure out where to begin. U7 sounds like a good shout. I think I'll remove U8 as well just so I can remove any gunk from underneath it - U7 had quite a bit. It's annoying that I can't immediately see any rotten bias - that would make my job considerably easier. Any tips or links to using a multimeter for this task? Cheers.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I had the same problem with my CC after recapping. I washed/scrubbed it fully in IPA and then flushed with distilled water, after that it powered on correctly and now works fine.

You really need to flush out all the crap under the chips, I didn't need to remove any chips or do anything crazy.

I'm not sure why but the CC is worse than the LCs it seems.

 
Well, I've just attempted a dishwasher clean of the motherboard followed by a 99% isopropyl bath. Will let that fully dry and will try again. My multimeter arrives tomorrow, so I'll start the arduous task of testing each via line by line...

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Massive update (well, relatively speaking):

Following mwdmeyer's advice, I washed the motherboard in the dishwasher, dried it, rinced in 99% isopropyl alcohol, dried it and left it in a casserole bowl filled with rice overnight. Today, it boots!!!

Any idea how to adjust the tint so it's less 'pink'? Please tell me I don't need some special tool. Please say I can use a random screwdriver or bit. :p





 
Okay, new update. I just used a screwdriver and easily manipulated the adjustment controls on the back of the CC. I've got a new issue. No matter what I do to the colours, focus, etc., some of the colours (primarily blue) look really washed out. If I raise the red levels, the whole screen goes a rosy color like before.

You can see in this image what 'purple' looks like. Any suggestions?



 
There is a special process for the alignment. Also, it could be a bad solder joint or capacitor in one of the 3 color circuit paths. These ABs are known for bad caps and solder joints. 

 
Hello again. I'll be in a position to recap the A/B sometime next week. Just had a quick question before I get started. Are there any known differences between North American and European boards? I only ask because I want to use the very helpful capacitor map and list already produced (scroll down to iMic's post):

https://www.thinkclassic.org/viewtopic.php?id=202

I think iMic's CC is European, but I thought I'd check. For the record, I've got a European model - indeed a 'Colour Classic'! :p Many thanks!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yes, iMic's runs at 220, but I am pretty sure the CC is 110/200 auto switching. Should say on the back. If so, then yes for sure they are all the same.

 
did you re-cap the analog board?

i would re-cap the analog board,   follow iMic's image,  then re-adjust those pots.

 
Hey uni, that's exactly what I'm aiming to do sometime next week. I've looked carefully at the analogue board and I don't see any major surprises (unlike iMic's first encounter), but it's very likely a re-cap job that's needed to fix the colour issues. Once that's done, I'm hopeful that everything will be squared away. I've got an LC 550 motherboard on its way, which is great, but it also means that my restoration of the CC's mobo may have been a bit of a waste of time! Oh well, if the 550 works out, maybe someone would be interested in the original. Anyway, I'll keep the thread updated once I've re-capped the analogue board. Cheers!

Oh, and unity, you were right! :)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Just finished recapping a CC yesterday and it wouldn't boot.  I resoldered any suspect points on the analogue board and checked the vias mentioned in here... Then I put a small 3V watch cell where the (dead) PRAM battery was... and it booted.  Yay!  This puppy is maxed at 10MB, i installed a spare 256 VRAM card and FPU.

Also Lazarus, you are missing the green channel completley.  I'd put it back to the "rosy" colour and focus on getting any hint of green to appear.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Also Lazarus, you are missing the green channel completley. I'd put it back to the "rosy" colour and focus on getting any hint of green to appear.
Great work on the CC revival! I'm glad everything is looking good for you. In regards to my colour issues, I'll likely recap the analogue board and see where I'm at after that. You're correct, though, I'll likely have have to reset the colours back to where they were, as my adjustments will have flooded the screen with blues to overcompensate for the reds. The green channel seemed to work, but not well. Perhaps that's a cap issue. Will update soon!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well, I replaced every capacitor on the analogue board but one (I bought the wrong physical size, and it doesn't fit) AND the CC has normal colours again!!

Can someone remind me of the utilities available to calibrate the colour of the screen? Cheers!



 
Last edited by a moderator:
I remember reading in a couple places of an official Apple utility that helps you calibrate your screen as well as a third-party app. Anyone know what either of those is called? Thanks!

 
Back
Top