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Clean Mac SE/30 (no retrobright)

M

mc9625

6502
Although the case is in overall good state, I would like to clean it a little bit. 

It has some yellowing, but I don't dare to completely dismantle (mainly the front case) in order to do a retrobright session... maybe this summer... not sure yet.

Meanwhile is there something I can do to clean it as much as possible without open it? I would like to avoid to damage plastic.

Is, for instance, the magic eraser a good tool to start with? Any suggestion on how to proceed?

Thanks

 
I don't recommend using a magic eraser for cleaning retro computers.  Contrary to popular belief, they are in fact abrasive, and if you use one enough to remove yellowing it will remove the texture from the molded plastic.  For now, just cleaning the case with a good all-purpose cleaner that won't damage plastic is probably your safest option.  I use Simple Green, but I've also used Windex and had no ill effects, just spray it on a cleaning rag first rather than directly onto the computer to make sure none goes into a vent slot or something.

 
I use Scrubbing Bubbles. Best cleaner ever. But typically I soak the parts and rinse. So I never cleaned one assembled.

 
I've had pretty good luck with simple green and a plain kitchen sponge. Never had it wreck any plastics. It's never eaten paint or lettering from my experience. It won't remove shoe marks but a pencil eraser works for those.

Here's some pics of the Plus before\after. I didn't clean off she marks but the rest of the dirt was taken care of. http://imgur.com/a/ihYT3

 
I used peroxide without any of the retrobite mixes, used a small paint brush and just brushed it on then covered the se/30 with cling film so it wouldnt dry out, brought a cheap uv lamp and it worked really well, after 2 hours moved it around to get all sides. After that i just used a damp cloth to wipe the peroxide off. It wasnt messy and didnt need striping down, dud the same with keyboard and mouse without pulling all the keys off

 
I used Cif to clean the cables that came with my SE/30 and they are definitely less filthy now. I used it too on my 128k: it had some left over glue from an old sticker, some heavy black marks everywhere, and some brown stains. It removed all of that. But it does not get rid of yellowing, only retrobright does.

Just be careful not to rub too hard or you'll damage the texture of the plastic though...

Still if you're reasonable it's a good way to clean stuff, plus it's really easy to get where I live in France and it is also available in the UK, dunno if it's available where you live though.

If you really want to do it well, you'll have to take that bezel out. It's not a big deal you know, I was a little scared when I did it the first time but now I've taken 3 SE/30 apart and I know how to put them back by heart now ;) The only tricky bit is discharging the CRT.

 
Yes, CIF is quite common even here in Italy. I will try with it.

I'm still a little bit scared to totally dismantle the SE/30. I usually do such things thanks to iFixt or other "step by step" detailed instructions. With SE/30 is surprisingly a little bit harder to find a detailed guide.

Anyway I will try to do that later near summer time (the sun is stronger). Till march (sometimes April) is still a little bit cloudy and it could rain. 

 
I still recommend using a small brush and peroxide on its own and then cover in cling film as it didnt need a lot of cemicals at all and didnt need stripping down to do it and mine now looks new the keyboard and mouse look amazing as they had yellowed badly

 
mc9625 said:
I'm still a little bit scared to totally dismantle the SE/30. I usually do such things thanks to iFixt or other "step by step" detailed instructions. With SE/30 is surprisingly a little bit harder to find a detailed guide.
Click to expand...
The disassembly is easy once you have a long enough Torx bit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Macintosh-Case-Tool-Original-128k-Plus-SE-Classic-SE-30-Apple-Bit-/331657821608

Two screws inside the handle and two by the motherboard ports. It's like this on the entire compact Mac line. Four screws, set the Mac so the screen faces down, then gently tug the rear case off. If it sticks DON'T get a flathead screwdriver to pry it open, instead, I have heard a large clamp works good and doesn't damage the plastic.

This should be helpful as well: 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have found the only thing that works perfectly is creme developer 12% hydrogen peroxide with an optional pre-soak in some form of laundry oxy action to remove excess grime. Just smear on with gloves, wrap in clear wrap and sit outside on an overcast day, rotating every 10 or so minutes. Don't let it dry out or it will bleach the plastic and look terrible!

 
CompuNurd, I've already opened the Mac SE/30 and removed the back side of the case. That's easy. Is the front place that's look a lot more harder to remove. Basically you have to take apart everything (PSU, screen, and so on). This is the "scary" part for me.  Actually I've even purchased another Back cover (1€) just to practice retrobrighting on it without damaging the "original" :)

 
Hi compunerd, Yes it gets rid of the yellowing with the peroxide and cling film with uv light or in a sunny country just peroxide and cling film and put in the back garden for 2-3 hours. Mine looks awesome now, keyboard, mouse and mac are all the same colour without stripping anything down

 
The retrobrite mix is used to make it easy to apply and stop it drying out, just lightly brushing on the peroxide and cling film does the same without the need to strip the mac down and is a lot easier to clean off as its just liquid not a paste. Its the peroxide and uv that causes the chemical reaction to reverse the yellowing. I didnt want to strip mine down so tried the cling film not expecting it to work as well but was amazed how well it worked, i removed cling film, used a damp cloth with small amount of washing up liquid and simply wiped of the peroxide and wiped dry

 
I've never had the brush-on method work for me.  It always left uneven coloring (blotches, strokes, etc.)  I'm a big fan of the submersion method.

 
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