Awesome -- fast -- bad cap removal tool.

[uniserver]

i would say this tool knocked about 15 minutes off, my re-caps.

just push and twist. love it.

http://shop.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/cb.aspx?a=1164820&pm2d=CSE-SPG-15-PLA&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pla&gclid=CKDa_uCd_bcCFWJlMgod2hAAXg

 

[krye]

What do you mean, are you using these to break the caps off? That's a good way to take the pads with them. You should use a hot air rework station.

 

[uniserver]

I'm so busy now doing capjobs, (almost every day now) this is a mega time saver.

Figured I would be nice enough to share this awesome tid bit.

Hot air station… i decided to just invest in a heat gun,

Regardless, the area has to be masked with aluminum foil anyways.

Customers dont like Melted PDS Slots / RAM / SCSI or Floppy connectors.

I only fire it up when needed in certain circumstances. Eg. scsi chip SE/30

I Never have issues with pads.

If I do have issues with pads,

It's because someone tried to De-Cap their corroded caps with their " other " way.

Seriously my Re-Cap tally now, Just for the SE/30 and the Portable m5120 and m5126 boards, (most popular)

(25) SE/30's and after I complete the 11 board job that will be here tomorrow or the next day I will be at (36) Macintosh Portable boards.

Hap's been getting me alot of business from his ebay ad's and also my buddy in Guam, his mention of my website in his ad

had got me alot of business.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Professionally-Recapped-Apple-Macintosh-Portable-M5120-Mac-w-Rebuilt-Battery-/151068091577?pt=US_Vintage_Computers_Mainframes&hash=item232c5c24b9

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apple-820-0685-B-Macintosh-Performa-5200-Logic-Motherboard-for-parts-or-repair-/221215067120?pt=US_Vintage_Computing_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3381720bf0

 

[NJRoadfan]

Take it from a n00b. I removed the caps from my Portable using the cut'n'pull method and did not lift any pads. This was my first time ever doing ANY sort of SMD work. The solder job afterwards didn't look pretty, but neatness comes with experience.

 

[techknight]

i lost quite a few pads doing cutting. even tugging with soldering iron even worse.

Best method for me back when I actually had time to do anything, was using a hot air pencil with a fine tip and adjustable heat/fan.

most rework stations have that. Fill the pads with fresh solder and heat them out of there. never lost a pad since.

 

[uniserver]

didn't you have issues with your re-work station, bubble up the PCB while you were trying to remove a borns filter with a SE/30?

ever get that figured out?

 

[olePigeon]

I've had just the opposite experience. I've lost pads on 2 out of 4 recaps, and that was with desoldering and not just cut and pull.

 

[techknight]

But thats removing a multipin device through-hole on a 4+ layer board. a little bit different.

 

[olePigeon]

Oh, for through hole, I guess that'll work fine. I thought you were talking about surface mount.

 

[uniserver]

this guy is selling these kits for 12.99 + shipping

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bolt-Screw-Extractor-irwin-power-grip-394100-7pc-Bulk-/260752674810#vi-content

 

[CelGen]

No no.

No.

no.

no.

no.

no no no no no no.

NO

NO

 

[uniserver]

:?:

is your cat eating your sandwich?

 

[krye]

I lost pads on 2 out of 2 recaps. One with a soldering iron, one with a hot air rework station. I guess I need more practice.

 

[defor]

really.

wow.

words cannot express.

I think i just ow.

 

[Bunsen]

bad cap removal tool

I think that says it all, really.

 

[James1095]

I ripped up a pad or two on most cap jobs until I set aside the soldering iron and started cutting the caps off with dikes, haven't had any problems since. Enough heat to melt the solder also softens the adhesive holding the pads, so if you happen to put any force on the cap before the solder on both pads is *completely* molten, you have a high risk of lifting a pad. I would be nervous twisting them off, but it does make sense in a way. You are applying almost entirely lateral force to the pads, and no pulling/lifting force so it's certainly safer than any other sort of tugging method. I say if it works for you, go for it. Perfecting a technique and achieving consistency is far more important than the technique itself.

 

[CC_333]

Perfecting a technique and achieving consistency is far more important than the technique itself.

Well said.
I haven't been doing much recently, because of my SE/30 scare last year, but I'm thinking I might start getting back into it a bit (Uniserver has been doing a lot of work for me lately, so I'm in no hurry )

c

 

[RickNel]

Uniserver may have some martial-arts energy directing skills up his sleeve, but I think I will stick to the cut-off method that I have used on a small number of boards so far without pad loss.

When you snip off the can and pry the base off the remains of the soldered pins, you can apply the soldering iron tip to the top of the pin, not the pad. When the pad receives enough heat via the pin to melt the solder, the pin just topples over and you can lift it away with tweezers, without putting any stress at all on the pad area. A dab of flux before applying the iron helps a lot, too. Then a tiny dot of solder paste for the replacement.

Sometimes I wind a single strand of solid copper wire around the iron tip (before heating it up!) and extend it a few mm from the tip to get heat into a confined space without cooking any nearby components. It only lasts a few shots, but it is disposable.

Rick

 

[NJRoadfan]

This guy has success with the pull off method.