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ATOMicZipMacPLUS/MacQuarium™
- Thread starter Trash80toHP_Mini
- Start date
What did you do to it? It looked better in your post on 30 December 2012!DB-25 IDC Connectors and Ribbon Cable.
Case cuts are finished . . .
Bingo!!!! [
] ]'>I need the handle section and bolt tubes to hide the Epoxy Putty buildup of the CRT access panel for the MacQuarium's water level, gasketed/bolt down access port and air the tubes headin' in and and back out
I was thinking about cutting it down to the ventilation slots, but nine sides to mate up is plenty far enough over the top . . . even for me . . .
. . . TWELVE sides would be a suborbital trajectory. :
O1M, it's not even close to being finished, today I cut everything away on those three sides that's going to be clear plexiglas/perspex.
I forgot about cutting the A/B side away for backlighting, but that's a simple process. I'll be using the sabre saw with a fine down-cut blade to do that.
Mating up just five sides without and bends will be duck soup! }
I think I looked at the wrong Dec. 30th post. Maybe this pic helps more for visualization:
That's one side, the sketch markyb86 posted above shows it, and the other two, as a flat layout for cutting and bending.
Routing the nine different shiplap joints to get everything to fit flush on the surface would be the fun part!
So I'll be cheating!
)
That's one side, the sketch markyb86 posted above shows it, and the other two, as a flat layout for cutting and bending.
Routing the nine different shiplap joints to get everything to fit flush on the surface would be the fun part!
So I'll be cheating!
)
Yeah, each side will be rabbeted, but a rabbet is usually employed at a right angle whiie shiplap is planar application of a rabbet.
I was originally going to equalize the thickness of the sides by rabbeting them with a roller type undercut bit, but found a lazier/safer method in varying the depths of the rabbet of each side of the plexi.. It would be too easy to tear out an inside corner of the case with the former method.
I'm considering a bevel on the plexi edge so that it protrudes a bit above the surface of the case, but that might prove problematic in terms of scratches on the plexi and adding another level of complexity.
Now that I've been looking at the thinner clear plexi side for a few hours, I might take the most simple approach of all. Putting the bevel on the nine sides of the Bucket by hand by scraping won't be bad at all. The bends in the thinner plexi will be much less noticeable in terms of distortion, less obtrusive in terms of clarity and the sub-surface glazing would less prone to collecting scratches.
hrmmm . . .
I was originally going to equalize the thickness of the sides by rabbeting them with a roller type undercut bit, but found a lazier/safer method in varying the depths of the rabbet of each side of the plexi.. It would be too easy to tear out an inside corner of the case with the former method.
I'm considering a bevel on the plexi edge so that it protrudes a bit above the surface of the case, but that might prove problematic in terms of scratches on the plexi and adding another level of complexity.
Now that I've been looking at the thinner clear plexi side for a few hours, I might take the most simple approach of all. Putting the bevel on the nine sides of the Bucket by hand by scraping won't be bad at all. The bends in the thinner plexi will be much less noticeable in terms of distortion, less obtrusive in terms of clarity and the sub-surface glazing would less prone to collecting scratches.
hrmmm . . .
I see how it looks now, but why? It looked better when the whole of the top and back sections were transparant. That goes for the 45 degree bit which, at present, sticks out in a rather ugly manner.
(Also, how did you join it back together-you'd cut it, right, but now it's joined again???)
(Also, how did you join it back together-you'd cut it, right, but now it's joined again???)
The clear inner chassis insert holds up one corner and the two clamps hold it in place at two others temporarily.
When I'm finished, I should be able to pick it up by the handle. The handle section will hide the access panel in the CRT/MacQuarium and interior lighting, including the edge lighting of the A/B.
The chamfered sections have functional cooling vents in them, whereas the cooling vents on the (now missing) side of the top are non-functional/for looks only. I need to keep the venting/convection cooling of the case unmodified as much as possible for running convection cooling tests/IR Photography sessions on the 128k+++ . . .
. . . that's why I'm not modding the A/B side of the case yet.
There's airflow across the back side of the A/B that would be blocked either way I do the window mod.
I've pretty much decided to go with the KISS principal for the glazing, matching all the surfaces is doable, but any imperfection would drive me up the wall. The PITA factor for re-doing the clear panel when it gets scratched up means I'd never fix it. So I'll be using the thin plexi/case bevel approach. Since this will have the beloved plastic fish in the CRT/MacQuarium and relatively current, upgradeable components, it has a good chance of remaining in service as a family heirloom long after I'm gone. We've got things in the family made by several generations of crazy hackers and fine craftsmen dating well back into the 1800s.
When I'm finished, I should be able to pick it up by the handle. The handle section will hide the access panel in the CRT/MacQuarium and interior lighting, including the edge lighting of the A/B.
The chamfered sections have functional cooling vents in them, whereas the cooling vents on the (now missing) side of the top are non-functional/for looks only. I need to keep the venting/convection cooling of the case unmodified as much as possible for running convection cooling tests/IR Photography sessions on the 128k+++ . . .
. . . that's why I'm not modding the A/B side of the case yet.
There's airflow across the back side of the A/B that would be blocked either way I do the window mod.
I've pretty much decided to go with the KISS principal for the glazing, matching all the surfaces is doable, but any imperfection would drive me up the wall. The PITA factor for re-doing the clear panel when it gets scratched up means I'd never fix it. So I'll be using the thin plexi/case bevel approach. Since this will have the beloved plastic fish in the CRT/MacQuarium and relatively current, upgradeable components, it has a good chance of remaining in service as a family heirloom long after I'm gone. We've got things in the family made by several generations of crazy hackers and fine craftsmen dating well back into the 1800s.
Aren't the clips a bit ugly?
As clips go, they're fairly ugly, but they're just there for the photo update.
The cutaway sport-top will be all Plexi and easily removable, no handle lifting. That'll be the continuous use top, tucked out of the way back underneath the shelf.
The full size glazed bucket-top will require removal from the chassis for in order to install/remove it so I can use the sport-top.
The cutaway sport-top will be all Plexi and easily removable, no handle lifting. That'll be the continuous use top, tucked out of the way back underneath the shelf.
The full size glazed bucket-top will require removal from the chassis for in order to install/remove it so I can use the sport-top.
:lol: It's really a swap-out hardtop, no cloth involved . . . think AMC Pacer meets Picasso on a really bad day for Cubism.
Machs nix.
Update time: I've settled on specs for the tallest configuration that will need to fit under the shelf:
This is how the final hack will appear from eye-level when approaching the OnlineWorkstation in the bedroom.
I've begun the search for a slimline tray loading DVD/R/RW with a tray height of 11mm or less. I'm hoping one of the spare CD Caddys will sacrifice its life to become the period perfect hood ornament for the new Optical Drive. The CD-SC's plastics will remain sacrosanct after all . . .
< . . . probably. : >
This view shows the interference areas . . .
. . . there are no firm plans for the sport-top, several approaches beckon, so it'll be a sculpture in progress . . .
. . . by trial and error process. }
Machs nix.
Update time: I've settled on specs for the tallest configuration that will need to fit under the shelf:
This is how the final hack will appear from eye-level when approaching the OnlineWorkstation in the bedroom.
I've begun the search for a slimline tray loading DVD/R/RW with a tray height of 11mm or less. I'm hoping one of the spare CD Caddys will sacrifice its life to become the period perfect hood ornament for the new Optical Drive. The CD-SC's plastics will remain sacrosanct after all . . .
< . . . probably. :
>This view shows the interference areas . . .
. . . there are no firm plans for the sport-top, several approaches beckon, so it'll be a sculpture in progress . . .
. . . by trial and error process. }
I'd...um...put a cover of some sort over that CRT, otherwise it'll probably snap its neck if put under the shelf a bit too, um... forcefully!
Update time again:
Wiring harness pathways, plexi ducting and fan placement testing complete. [] ]'>
It's quite a tight fit down in there, as planned . . .
. . . the top row of components fo'ard the Flyback will soon be taking up residence in the doggie bag . . .
. . . gotta make room for the MacQuarium access hatch, the fan and the internal plexi cooling ductwork/spillway/roof . . .
. . . the PSU wound up about 3/8" farther back than I'd envisioned, despite the crowding effect . . .
. . . a dummy header for the yoke harness will be added where it doesn't belong . . .
. . . you can't have everything. :-/
The sheet metal work is complete for now, I've got a bit of wobble room for the VidCad . . .
. . . plenty of clearance for the Power Harness on the other side . . .
. . . just gotta decide what to do about securing the VidCard's backplane plate . . .
. . . the Power Harness tucks very nicely underneath the Zip Drive, that was a slight concern . . .
. . . and here's POV shot from behind the three-sided plexi picture window.
Lots more to plan out and implement, but It should be up and running before too long and the remainder of the hack can be simmered on the back-burner for a bit. Research indicates that milling/grinding glass is hell on electrical tools and I don't want to try to do CRT chopping with pneumatics . . .
. . . next time that cheap-$#!^ Harbor Freight wet tile saw hits rock bottom sale prices and I've got some loose dinero . . . }
__________________________________________________________________________________
Gratuitous Japanese Saw plug . . .
This appears to have become the definitive thread on the subject, so I'll edit in descriptions later . . .
Wiring harness pathways, plexi ducting and fan placement testing complete. [
] ]'>It's quite a tight fit down in there, as planned . . .
. . . the top row of components fo'ard the Flyback will soon be taking up residence in the doggie bag . . .
. . . gotta make room for the MacQuarium access hatch, the fan and the internal plexi cooling ductwork/spillway/roof . . .
. . . the PSU wound up about 3/8" farther back than I'd envisioned, despite the crowding effect . . .
. . . a dummy header for the yoke harness will be added where it doesn't belong . . .
. . . you can't have everything. :-/
The sheet metal work is complete for now, I've got a bit of wobble room for the VidCad . . .
. . . plenty of clearance for the Power Harness on the other side . . .
. . . just gotta decide what to do about securing the VidCard's backplane plate . . .
. . . the Power Harness tucks very nicely underneath the Zip Drive, that was a slight concern . . .
. . . and here's POV shot from behind the three-sided plexi picture window.
Lots more to plan out and implement, but It should be up and running before too long and the remainder of the hack can be simmered on the back-burner for a bit. Research indicates that milling/grinding glass is hell on electrical tools and I don't want to try to do CRT chopping with pneumatics . . .
. . . next time that cheap-$#!^ Harbor Freight wet tile saw hits rock bottom sale prices and I've got some loose dinero . . . }
__________________________________________________________________________________
Gratuitous Japanese Saw plug . . .
This appears to have become the definitive thread on the subject, so I'll edit in descriptions later . . .
