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Have lifted no pads with the pure axial/twist method, even on the worst boards I've had. Gentle heating and attempting to walk off a capacitor has managed to do it, though. With a more precise preheater and hot air nozzle it should still be possible, but the flush cutters still sound the most...

You just have to adapt a 6800 to the 68000's bus to make it true. Or find the Jef Raskin era, 6809-based proto-Mac that lives in an Apple II.

I assume by "mostly vertical bars," you mean the default NEC VRAM state? Have you tried any other cards in that same SE/30 before? I've had expansion cards other than the Asante MacCon (which I assume is because it doesn't use all the PDS lines?) quit working when the power supply and the card...

The neckboard, or the yoke? I assumed the socket/pinout on the neckboard would require that to rotate with the rest of the tube. From what I understand, yoke angle can rotate the image and neckboard is primarily for supplying grid/heater power and ground. I'm still trying to reason why this...

This is pretty weird, but I swear qemu-system-m68k emulating a Quadra 800 produces these exact same artifacts, when I use it (Mac OS 8.1). I am certain the rectangular outline one has shown up several times, like the damage/repaint isn't working as intended.

Really? I wonder if that's a normal amount for the cutoff pot, then, and whether everything was manually adjusted by technicians at the plant. I'm almost certain I remember just a tiny, almost-invisible amount of rotation/offset being within spec for Macintosh CRTs, too. The actual geometry and...

Finally, I can not only plug in Ethernet cables, but also get them back without surgical tools!

Well, this is embarrassing, but I'm glad I have a pattern of being oblivious to really small mistakes instead of doing nothing else right. The CRT's black areas, outside of the drawn rasters, get brighter than normal when it crosses into the ranges that cause blooming. I'm almost certain this...

WindowShade. I can't even justify a use case, but I want it.

Thanks for corroborating what I'm thinking so far, even if it's theoretical. I also notice the brightness pot's lowest range is pretty much all "blank screen," where I remember decades ago with a different CRT installed this was not the case. I think I will just live with an aged CRT, maybe...

This issue has not returned, and I no longer see the squiggle/sinewave of the gun when the CRT is powered down. However, I am still noticing what a few others have in the past: Bloom/bulging, where the horizontal raster widens when something white is on screen, which is more intense when the...

Without relocating too many things, isn't it also possible to modify a ROM (the IIsi-derived, "universal" type) so that the default PRAM values prefer 32-bit addressing at cold boot? I've always been interested in trying something like that, for both practicality and fun factor. (Not meaning to...

To be sure, gave this a try on a ten-switch adapter with a PM7200's built in video, and was finally able to see the "missing" 1280x1024 mode as well. The 21" Multiscan (MODE 1 if applicable) works great for getting the desired behavior out of the sense lines.

For what it's worth I've never yet found a dead GLUE. The clocks coming from it should be easy places to start... Assuming you own a proper scope already, unlike when I first tried. Reaching a RAM-less death chime at all is usually cause for celebration.

Three flavors of auto-injecting cheese wheel.

Yeah, I was going to ask more or less the same, if you had any INITs or SSW that'd be setting it to 32-bit mode. I always use Force32 on a IIci with the same ROM and no battery installed, and it has to restart once during the first cold startup, since the addressing mode is changed.

Yeah, I fooled with the position of the wire between tests to make sure since it seemed implausible, thanks for confirming. Strangely, I went back inside to correct the height on the analog board, since I'd set the geometry slightly wrong years ago and kept forgetting to set it back. After the...

Discharged and thoroughly cleaned out the terminals on both the tube and the screw-in clip itself. The wire in there should be going through the pronged piece's hole, making it clamp tightly between the screw and the clip, right? After working on it, it still seems defective sometimes, until I...