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That's an excellent idea - I totally overlooked the opportunity to re-recap! I was overly concerned with whether or not there would be leaking and totally missed that, thanks! :)

Thanks mdeverhart! I suspected as much, but thank you for taking a look. I also checked out the MacDat site and there are apparently no caps that need to be handled on the LCD, so I am going to button this one back up (I replaced the Li battery some time back) and move on to my other Duo.

If it did eat through a trace, maybe it was nearly eaten through and that last bit (a few microns?) was eaten away, shook apart, etc. I'm assuming when you tested the video card in the other machine that you used the same monitor (confirming both the video card and the monitor). I recently had...

I was finally ready to recap my Duo 250 and when I opened it, the caps already appear to have been replaced!! (either that or they did a really mediocre job of installing the original ones) I have plenty else to do if these are replacements. (recapping the screen is next). Is there anyone...

Here is the (untested) 3D model one that I found, during my search... it might be better than starting from scratch. https://www.printables.com/model/1166238-plcc-test-plug/files

I saw this and found it funny, purely because this is what I paid for the last one (portable) I bought, around 10 or so years ago.

Instead of contacting them today, I wrote them last night. Earlier today they had it fixed and I was able to order it! Fantastic customer service! - and terrific advice, zigzagjoe!

Thanks for the reply, if I can't find something readymade, I will go the 3D route (I already found an 'untested' file out there that I could use as a beginning). I was thinking that as well - I will contact them tomorrow. Thanks for giving me a push on that. :)

What I have found are things like this... I would buy the one they have to experiment with, but the min quantity to purchase is 10, so this one that they have, cannot be bought. I've seen too many of these catch22s looking for parts.

As topic title states, I'm looking for a 28 Pin PLCC male plug, so I can do some SWIM work. I have found these available for $140 already mounted to an adapter board, but I have been unable to locate the part by itself. I suppose it could be fabricated via 3D printing and some additional work...

Ouch! Back when I was into restoring autos, there was a fellow sports car aficionado, who said, "...there are two types of owners, those that can afford them and those that cannot." It took me a while longer to figure out that the costs come in many forms - time and effort being the most dear...

It looks like you no longer plan to 3d print it (I don't have access to a 3d scanner), but if you need photos with detail/measurements, let me know - there is a little more to it than just a hole in the right location. I'm going to install it (eventually), but since all the components are...

Your work might also provide an insight into how some programs seem to 'know' that the original file has been copied. Did you attempt the copy between volumes? I assume the result would be the same, but it would eliminate the change of name that accompanied the examples you listed.

I like it too - a functional and useful, custom hot-rod! Its projects like this that have helped me to break out of the restoration-only mindset and start using mods to bring some of my pieces back to life! Great job, SophieRose! And isn't that what it's all about? :cool:

Looking forward to this! I have 4 MDDs (all on their original PSU and fine so far) that will need attention in that area eventually, so it will be instructive to see what you encounter/overcome to get this solution working.

I don't suppose you have an order list for these and also for the Duo MB and Screen from your source? (DigiKey?/Mouser?)

I've only have 6 Mac II adjacent (II, IIx, IIfx) units and I've not had a failure either, but I have had to replace a fan and I took the time to clean all of them inside and out. I agree that re-capping the logic board is going to be your first priority.

Eager to watch...

I tried out the no-FPU 040 again today, to refresh my memory of the issue with it and it booted with a normal chime, but there was no video or apparent further boot processing, since the HD did not progress. After trying a couple of more reboots to make sure that was the only result, I swapped...

Do you have a picture of this that you can post? Also, how are you washing the board? I had a no FPU 040 chip I tried and I don't believe it worked on mine - I don't recall the exact way it failed to work, but I can recheck that on mine and report back.