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Thanks for the info, I'll add those to my cart for my next order.

The caps on the analog board (power board) on those machines tend to leak badly. Look at the PCB at the base of the capacitors, you will likely see a pool of liquid electrolyte. The caps on the analog board are all through-hole, so they are easy to replace with some basic soldering skills. The...

Here is a link to a thread describing a similar problem with the clones, I don't think a solution was found in the thread, but you might want to post on that thread and see if anyone has updates with their situations. Here's a post I did about my original presto board and which drivers I used...

Unfortunately I do not. What are the symptoms of your faulty board? There is currently a mostly complete HyperDrive kit on eBay, though $550 + $50 shipping is a good chunk of change.

Does anyone have a cap list/cart for the ADP-17AB low-power AC adapter? I am putting in a Mouser order and don't have that particular PSU with me to open and look at the caps.

I had the same symptoms on a 512k. I checked continuity from where the keyboard connectors meet the PCBs on both ends, there were no breaks. I couldn't figure it out, the keyboard worked with another machine, like yours does. Someone suggested cleaning the keyboard cable jack with IPA. I blew...

Thanks for the pic. So your photo is before you removed the blob on side 1 of JB1? It definitely sounds like your 128k has been upgraded to a 512k. You would probably need to pull the expansion board off to tell if you have an actual 512k logic board, or if you have a 128k board that was...

I haven't used his service, but he has a good reputation, if I needed it done I would not hesitate to use his service. I've bought parts from him before, he seems like a nice guy.

Awesome, thanks for the update. A friend of mine just asked if I ever made progress with mine (I did not), this gives me some motivation to work on mine. Are your RAM chips socketed? I'm wondering if part of the problems I am having is due to poor connections in the sockets. Specifically...

Gotcha, thanks. I just wasn't sure if there were any ICs that are known to be prone to failure. Slightly related general question from a relative-newbie... What causes ICs to fail when there are no physical signs of damage or corrosion leaking into the body, and when they have not been zapped...

I am getting ready to start my 2nd reloaded build, my donor is a working logic board that has developed bubbles under the solder mask on both sides of the board. The solder mask has completely come off of the ground plane on the top of the board at the back by the bracket. For my first build I...

Unfortunately I don't have a pre-heater, largely due to space constraints in my work area. What I do if I am going to be removing a larger chip that will require quite a bit of heat moving from side to side around the chip is to preheat the surrounding area with hot air, either from my hot air...

Hmm you guys are having me rethink my reliance on hot air. I do admit I never feel great about putting extra heat into the board.

Personally I did not attempt any SMD work more complicated than recapping until I bought a hot air station. I bought this one from Amazon for $40 and it has worked fine for me. It is well worth the investment. ChipQuik is expensive and can be a bit of a pain. It is good to have around as a...

I've used Wurth as well. As a bonus, the printing on the caps is red which looks cool.

I really lucked out with the display, it seems displays without trackball damage or leaking cap damage are very rare. I currently have the trackball removed, I will look into rubber bumpers. I definitely want to make sure the screen is not damaged.

If it does not work, I would recommend pulling up the board file and beeping out all the socketed GAL chip legs to their next point. Sometimes chips in sockets don't always make good contact.

You nailed it, thanks! One of the power connector joints was badly cracked, this also explains why moving the display was causing the machine to reboot previously. I re-flowed both the joints and it works great now.

I just checked it with my meter, it has not blown. That's unfortunate, it would have been an easy answer. I haven't done any digging yet, I would like to figure out how the soft power works so I can do a bit of testing and see where things are going wrong. It's odd that there are no signs of...

I did re-seat the keyboard ribbon connectors. I'm wondering if there is a broken trace somewhere on the logic board. The cap leakage wasn't bad at all and I did an inspection around the caps, but I might need to take another look. I haven't looked yet to see if there are any schematics...