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That’s a short, yeah. Pics of the logic board would help, definitely. The Classic is a tough cookie because cap damage can cause as many problems as a battery bomb, AND the analog boards tend to have issues too. On that note, your AB may have cracked solder joints at the plug connectors, and...

Some flybacks you can either remove the prongs with a little nut, or there’s a bit of solder holding it together. Tricky to desolder because it’s right inside the cap between the prongs.

Believe you’d need a logic probe or oscilloscope to directly test those chips. Indirectly, though, you can check each data line by referencing a schematic. Basically, you make sure there’s good continuity and little resistance between point A and point B. What often happens is cap damage can...

Your recap looks good to me. I agree with @zigzagjoe’s separate issues suggestion. For sound, start buzzing out traces from UB10 and UB11. It’s possible that the ROM is good, but just not making good pin contact. Some people use a rubber band to make sure it’s tight. For RAM, test in banks...

Echoing what's been said above. No power = bad PSU. You can probably get away with leaving the big snap-in capacitor, but all others in the PSU will need replacing. And the logic board caps should be done asap too. There are a bunch under your ethernet card and given enough time they'll nuke...

Glad to hear it has stabilized. You're smart to re-flow the connectors. A lot of these symptoms are caused by cracked or cold solder joints on plug connectors. BD1 needs re-flowing on almost every Classic I've fixed up. I see some evidence of that in these pictures. This also happens (less...

IMO the only long-term option is to replace it. It's a quick job, if you can source a good flyback.

Yeah that definitely looks like a classic bad flyback symptom.

Certainly possible that a bad CLUT would result in dead video. I’d check for upstream shorts too. Is your VRAM good, and is it making good pin contact? I’ve also had no video on a LC II result from a bad ROM chip.

The method mentioned by @falen6 is good advice, basically what I do too. Alcohol will displace water so I used that after the scrub to speed up the drying process, and de-ionized water is best. If the issue persists after a good scrubbing, it’s unlikely that flux residue is the prob. Might be...

Yeah loads of CC screens floating around out there. Probably a few on this forum if you put up a WTB in the trading post. Also worth removing the yoke and degaussing coil from the broken display, good parts to have around. :)

You can just leave the power on (but not booted) for a few hours and let the degaussing coil do its thing. If you hear it when you hit the back power switch, it should be working. I'm not convinced this is degauss related though. Sadly, this looks like aperture grill trauma. Hope I'm wrong...

I think @Chopsticks is on the right track here, are you getting stable voltages? Other ideas: if you're getting intermittent colour washout you might want to check the integrity and connection of the AB data cables. Swap out with another set to test, if you have spares. Also worth thoroughly...

I don't think I could resist a DOS compatible were one to show up locally! The PSU will probably just want new capacitors, including RIFAs.

Check for cracked or cold solder joints on the back of the yoke / neck board, and for each neck board wire where it connects to the analog board. And check the back of the analog board where the four pin yoke power plug connects (BD1). Re-flow anything that looks questionable.

Performance wise it is faster. In practical terms though you'd only see an advantage running on PPC machines. For a 68k like your SE/30 there's no pressing reason to upgrade. The V1's simplicity comes at a cost: it runs the bluepill out of spec. The V2 (or Androda's F1/F4 BlueSCSI) do not...

Haha yes I do! Guess I'm a Mastercraft brand rep now... From what I can see your Classic looks in good shape internally, everything looks as expected. The glue globs are normal, factory additions to keep components from getting dislodged, I guess? If you need to remove the glue (during a...

I've seen those green and white batteries before, circa mid-90s? Unless it's a modern Saft, which will have the date printed. Easiest way to get the drive out is to just pull the whole caddy, FDD and all. Disconnect all cables, then there are four screws that hold the caddy in place, two on the...

In Canada I can still find Graphite G4s for $50 or less, which is a steal. I see G5s for free all the time. MDDs have shot up in price, Cubes are expensive but seem to have plateaued. iMac G4 prices are all over the map but I have a feeling those will be prized. Just completely unique. I prefer...

This is why I've accumulated more G4 stuff. Perfect time to buy. Actually, perfect time was about 5 years ago, but still fairly cheap now (unless you target Cubes or high-end CPU upgrade cards or whatever.) And the G3 - G5 lineup has loads of upside still. I love 68k machines but at this point...