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vertical line se

imactheknife

Well-known member
I recapped se analog but also changed crt to one with no burn in. Just wondering if its yoke or caps, or connectors? I reflowed all connections. We was working before, crt out of classic ii
 

Callan

Well-known member
Verify your yoke us good. Check the resistance of the vertical and horizontal yoke of your old monitor and compare it to your new monitor. You want to make sure they're close to the same to verify there isn't a problem with your new yoke (broken wire, short, etc). If they're good odds are good that you've either put a cap in backwards, bridged something with a glob of solder, have a broken trace going to a pad, or one of the parts has separated from the pads and isn't making connection anymore.
 

imactheknife

Well-known member
Changed analog to another recapped analog, new crt and se works fine. Went over original analog and found wrong cap. Still has veritcal line. Wonder what else? Worked before recapping.
 

Callan

Well-known member
You don't have vertical deflection. Remeber... the tube is essentially on it's left side so the line you see from top to bottom is actually horizontal deflection. I would check the pads aren't fractured from the traces you'd been. That and make sure yournypke connector doesn't have any fractured joints. I dont have the cap kit list in front of me, but lookinf at the schematica I'd check C9, C7, and C2 (electrolytic in the vertical circuit that were probably part of the kit). Remeber to make sure you got the polarity right, and check continuity. Also make sure you didn't drop a glob of solder and make a new circuit path 😁. If it was working before odds are super good it's something simple.
 

Callan

Well-known member
Sorry... that's meant to say your your yoke connector doesn't have any fractured joints.
 

imactheknife

Well-known member
Sorry... that's meant to say your your yoke connector doesn't have any fractured joints.
Well, still no go lol. I have recapped lots. Just did 2 8500 power supplies, a quadra 800 psu, portable psu just this weekend. This analog being a royal pain. Check pads, bridges, caps, polarity, etc. reflowed all joints, and yoke board joints. Still same line on screen. Why this hobby enough to go postal sometimes lol
 

imactheknife

Well-known member
Well, found the issue. W6 had a break in the little bar at the pcb. Must have happened when removing the filter cap. Anyways, the w6 is locked up and wont budge allowing me to change width settings. Can theses still be purchased??
 

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Callan

Well-known member
W6 is just a jumper. I belive you talking about the width coil. As long as the ferrite core isn't broken it should be okay. Make sure if your adjusting it you only use a plastic adjustment tool. If you use a metal Alan wrench it will mess with the inductance of the coil and will make the Alan wrench hot hot. It also 9 times out of 10 breaks the core, so i wouldnt do it.. Now... sometimes when they're tight (gleaned from lots of other monitors not analog boards, so take this with a grain of salt). You can heat it up a little bit with a a hot air gun (very little... don't melt it) and adjust it. Make sure to get the proper adjustment tools first.

Here is a link to a set. Maybe someone can link a better one for analog boards.


If it's broken broken hopefully someone will chime in and offer you a replacement. If no one has one I would look on ebay for a used analog board.

Hope this helps!
 
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