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Solution for 9500/8500 pci clips
- Thread starter marmotta
- Start date
Trash80toHP_Mini
NIGHT STALKER
Nice fix, I was loathe to take a BrittleBox apart to check for a possible solution. What tap did you use? You've got me thinking in terms of the screw thread type that'd be best suited to the application. The case plastic requirements would be very different than the standard screw used for metal cases. Apple used many different types of screws and machine screws in their cases for as many different applications.
chickenplucker
Well-known member
Was thinking about this just the other day. How cool would it be to have some 3d printed copies of the power buttons or PCI brackets for some of these older machines. My poor 8500 sounds like a maraca when you move it with all its busted bits that lay in the case bottom.
Drill and tap does seem like a more permanent solution though.
Drill and tap does seem like a more permanent solution though.
Trash80toHP_Mini
NIGHT STALKER
In that case, epoxy nuts underneath/to the case. < /pun > < /Neanderthaler mode>
Creating a dedicated thick, ABS printable nut designed to look "right enough" when MEK'd to the outside of the case might be a good solution?
1 - design the "case nut" with a pilot hole for 4/40 drilling and tapping
2 - print in ABS with cutaway clamping tabs (3D design spec is in flux ATM)
3 - buy 4/40 Tap/drill set
4 - clamp, drill and tap printed nut
5 - cut tabs away
6 - drill pilot hole in case with the matching tap bit (greater accuracy and less stress on case plastics)
7 - drill out pilot hole in case so a 4/40 nylon stud slips snugly through
8 - thread nylon stud into "case nut"
9 - snug "case nut" up to the outside of case with 4/40 nut inside the case (steel nut will do, nylon would be better)
10 - Solvent weld "case nut" to case plastics
11 - remove nylon stud (if it breaks off in hole nylons easy to drill out)
12 - drill out hole with tap drill from set for appropriate retainer machine screw
Designing and printing a "full nutting bar" would probably look more like it belonged there and be a much more robust solution. Definitely design and print a pilot hole drilling jig for inside the case while you're at it.
Now that I think about it (and taken a peek at the ass end of my 8500) solvent welding a full length strip to the case would definitely be a lot better. Do they make silver lookin' ABS filament?
Hope that's clear enough, it looks right in my head, but translating that into words is iffy at best. :blink:
Creating a dedicated thick, ABS printable nut designed to look "right enough" when MEK'd to the outside of the case might be a good solution?
1 - design the "case nut" with a pilot hole for 4/40 drilling and tapping
2 - print in ABS with cutaway clamping tabs (3D design spec is in flux ATM)
3 - buy 4/40 Tap/drill set
4 - clamp, drill and tap printed nut
5 - cut tabs away
6 - drill pilot hole in case with the matching tap bit (greater accuracy and less stress on case plastics)
7 - drill out pilot hole in case so a 4/40 nylon stud slips snugly through
8 - thread nylon stud into "case nut"
9 - snug "case nut" up to the outside of case with 4/40 nut inside the case (steel nut will do, nylon would be better)
10 - Solvent weld "case nut" to case plastics
11 - remove nylon stud (if it breaks off in hole nylons easy to drill out)
12 - drill out hole with tap drill from set for appropriate retainer machine screw
Designing and printing a "full nutting bar" would probably look more like it belonged there and be a much more robust solution. Definitely design and print a pilot hole drilling jig for inside the case while you're at it.
Now that I think about it (and taken a peek at the ass end of my 8500) solvent welding a full length strip to the case would definitely be a lot better. Do they make silver lookin' ABS filament?
Hope that's clear enough, it looks right in my head, but translating that into words is iffy at best. :blink:
