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Save a damaged 800k floppy drive

RickNel

Well-known member
A lot of Compacts lose their 800k FDD when somebody damages them while trying to clean the heads. If the top head is lifted more than about 1cm the metallic spring "hinge" is permanently bent too far to snap the head down onto the disk surface when the head-lifter is released. I've done this with a Sony MPF51-W before I knew better.

Now I can share a way to recover from this accidental damage.

The spring-alloy hinge is too difficult to remove. I was also reluctant to force it, because it needs to maintain the lateral alignment of the upper head.

The solution is to make your own spring clip to apply the necessary downward force on the top head. The clip must ride on the head assembly as it travels across the disk. Also, it must not impede the head travel to its outermost limit where its projecting arm triggers the Track 0 optical sensor. The back of the clip must not make contact with any components on the circuit board at the rear of the drive.

Here is the clip outside the drive. Note that in this picture the upper head assembly is raised higher than it should be, in the open position with no disk present, because of the bent hinge.

Clip outside damaged 800k drive.jpg

A suitable clip can be fashioned from ordinary mild steel wire of about .8mm thickness. The form of the clip has a bottom prong that goes about 1cm into an existing hole in the bottom head carrier, just beside the screw that holds the original spring hinge. The top prong of the clip extends about 2/3 of the way across the top head carrier, with the point lodged in the corner of the depression in that carrier.

The tension of the clip can be adjusted to match the resilience of the particular piece of wire that you have available. One or more loops wound around a 3mm screwdriver shaft or similar will make the clip more flexible and less stiff for each loop added. I tried first three loops, but found more tension was needed, so reduced to two loops as pictured. By experimentation, you can arrive at the right tension to allow enough stretch when fitting in onto the head assembly, while applying enough tension to hold the clip in place and press down the top head to make proper contact with the disk.

Here is the clip in position on the head assembly. The bottom prong goes in to the left of the screw holding the hinge. To attach it, I used long-nose pliers to position the bottom prong, then wiggled the top prong into position.

880k FDD with clip.jpg

This clipped drive is now in use in my 512ke. The drive reads and writes with no problem.

Rick

 

uniserver

Well-known member
or you could just pull the head assembly out and put more tension on the spring...

this fix is pretty ghetto, sorry.

I'v pm'ed CC_333 he can better describe how to remove the head assembly and re-configure head clamping pressure - spring perch.

 

CelGen

Well-known member
Wouldn't removal of the head assembly completely take the drive out of alignment?

 

CC_333

Well-known member
Wouldn't removal of the head assembly completely take the drive out of alignment?
No.
I do it all the time to lubricate it, and as long as you don't remove the little sensor (the zero-track sensor?), it doesn't matter; the drive will just move the head until it comes into that sensor, in effect recalibrating the drive (I guess?).

Anyway, if you look carefully at the back of the head, there is actually a regular, but small black spring which holds the heads together (the big copper thing the upper head is attached to is little more than a hinge, as far as I can tell), and there's three little tabs, each slightly higher than the first, where it hooks onto the upper head assembly (there may also be a few such tabs on the lower head, but I haven't done this in awhile (there's been no need), so my memory's a little fuzzy). The spring is normally hooked onto the lowest of the three tabs.

To adjust the tension, all you have to do is break the little seal (which is there to keep it from vibrating loose, I suppose) and move the spring to one of the higher tabs. As long as you don't overstretch it in the process, it should make the head as good as new.

If, even at the highest "setting", it still isn't providing enough tension, then RickNel's solution is still valid.

I hope this helps.

I don't really remember anyone on here noticing this spring before, so maybe I'm the first?

c

 

RickNel

Well-known member
Actually, I was aware of that tension spring, but forgot to mention it in the original post here.

My fix is for "damaged" drives, not just ones that need a bit of adjustment. If somebody has lifted the upper head far enough to permanently bend the hinge, chances are that they have also stretched that little tension spring. In my case, moving the spring to the tightest option did not help. It is most likely designed to adjust only enough to compensate for minor wear.

Apart from the likelihood of damage to the tension spring, there is also the problem that the spring is attached very close to the hinge and therefore exerts very little leverage. It can't apply enough force to overcome the extra 10 degrees flex angle caused by distortion of the hinge, which is quite stiff. It might work if the hinge has been bent only a very few degrees and the spring not stretched.

My spring clip applies its force further from the hinge, and therefore with many times the leverage on the hinge.

It's not beautiful, but it works for me.

Rick

 
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