Power problem with iBook G4.

[sjword]

I've got an iBook G4 (different iBook than the display plagued one) that has some sort of electrical gremlin going on. It's experiencing a few odd symptoms that have pointed to a few different problems, but then something else cancels that out. I'm stumped right now. I've listed the symptoms below as to make it easier to read:

- iBook will run off of battery but not AC power

- Adapter will not charge battery, but does detect it (when iBook is off, plugging in battery prompts adapter to change to orange; when removed, charger turns green.)

- iBook does not detect charger

- DC-In board has been replaced with 2 new ones and 2 known working ones from other iBooks, still nothing.

- PMU reset doesn't help

- PRAM not helping (worth a shot)

- tried a different battery

- tried 2 other chargers, all 3 chargers work on other iBooks

I really don't know where to go from here. I figure it's something on the logic board, but what exactly?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Franklinstein]

The iBook G4 may have been (relatively) free of the bad GPU issue, but it still had a fairly common issue: cracked solder joints, typically in the power section. There are some websites out there, readily reached with a good googling.

Anyway, whether simply from heat, stress, or as one of the many consequences of new, lead-free RoHS-compliant solder, sometimes cracks would develop on the solder joints in the power management section. Typically, this resulted in random loss of power or no power, period, but it's possible that it might cause some of your issues as well.

Unless somebody else has a better suggestion (which is always possible), I would advise you (or somebody else) to open that thing up and inspect the solder joints of the components on the board, particularly near the power section. If you find any cracks (you may need a magnifying glass), resolder them and see if that helps.

 

[sjword]

The iBook G4 may have been (relatively) free of the bad GPU issue, but it still had a fairly common issue: cracked solder joints, typically in the power section. There are some websites out there, readily reached with a good googling.
Anyway, whether simply from heat, stress, or as one of the many consequences of new, lead-free RoHS-compliant solder, sometimes cracks would develop on the solder joints in the power management section. Typically, this resulted in random loss of power or no power, period, but it's possible that it might cause some of your issues as well.

Unless somebody else has a better suggestion (which is always possible), I would advise you (or somebody else) to open that thing up and inspect the solder joints of the components on the board, particularly near the power section. If you find any cracks (you may need a magnifying glass), resolder them and see if that helps.

Thanks for the suggestion. I've thought about tearing it down again (I've done so probably 10 times on this specific G4, troubleshooting) and doing a really close inspection of the board, but I would have no idea where to start. I guess the power section is as good a place as any. Thanks

 

[Christopher]

It's possible it has a grounding problem because my iBook clamshell did not have the ground wire screwed into the metal shield and I could not get a charge or use the power adapter at all.

 

[sjword]

Well, an update, though not one I'm happy about. I think I may have found the problem. I found a section of the logic board towards the very front, near the front latch, that looks to be burnt/shorted out. Included in this section is a chip that appears to be marked "4172 EUA". I'm not sure of the role this little guy plays in the operation of the iBook, but it certainly looks damaged.

Here is a photo I took to show the damage:

I'm not sure where to go from here. Is this a part that could be replaced by myself? I have very little soldering experience, but may be able to manage it. Even if replaced, this may not restore full function. Is it worth trying to repair, or should I just sell the 'book off as parts? Any input would be great.

 

[Forrest]

Looks like liquid may have spilled onto the board at one time. I'd also replace that 5 pin IC next to that burned out IC, along with that capacitor between them. I small soldering iron (10-20 Watts) along with some flux and solder wick and you should be able to replace those components.