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Makeshift Battery for PB180

I have a Powerbook 180 in relatively okay condition and I've been meaning to rig up a battery for it for some time. As it stands right now, my plan is to find a 6V NiMH R/C battery that fits in the battery bay and has similar capacity to the original spec, solder some appropriate connectors to the computer's internal terminals, stow the battery inside and run it off its own power like nothing ever changed since 1992. My main questions are these -
a) Are there any reasons this wouldn't work, and
b) Would this be able to safely charge with the laptop plugged in, or would I need to take the battery out and use a dedicated charger? For the record, I'm using a new, equivalent adapter instead of the original one, which died not long ago.
Thanks!
 
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GRudolf94

Well-known member
If you have the original pack still, I recommend gutting that and sticking the cells inside, soldered to the original contact tabs if those are not corroded. It'll work ok, it's what I've done to all my NiCd/NiMH machines.
 

desertrout

Well-known member
It should work fine - the original battery is two groups of 5 nicad cells in series joined in parallel... those RC packs are 5 nicad or nimh cells, so pairing a couple of those would give you a decent replacement. If you can find an old battery, you can recell it using these packs. And yes it will safely charge inside the case.
 
If you have the original pack still, I recommend gutting that and sticking the cells inside, soldered to the original contact tabs if those are not corroded. It'll work ok, it's what I've done to all my NiCd/NiMH machines.
I do have the original battery, but I'm intending to do it this way instead of opening and recelling it since it's very heavily leaked and chemical burns aren't part of my plan.
 
That would be convenient, but unfortunately I don't have access to a 3d printer. To be clear, I don't plan on soldering the battery into the computer, only the leads of a connector I can plug a standard R/C battery into, like XT90 for instance. That way, the battery would still be removable, and if need be I can just desolder the connector anyway.
 

GRudolf94

Well-known member
I don't think I've ever burnt myself on leaked batteries. But anyway: here's the contact area under the (decayed and gone) connector on a PB180, courtesy of one of my own junk boards. Kinda lousy pads for wire but workable. I'd probably use a 2-position Mate-N-Lok connector as that's common in 6S NiMH packs, if doing it your way. PXL_20230610_225847761.jpg
 

flimshaw

Member
Wanted to share some experiments that I did recently with custom battery packs. Quick disclaimer: I know thermal fuses are missing in these photos, and I promise none of these are in active use / being charged until I add them. They were long delayed in shipping, and I had so many variables to test out that I got started without them for now while doing temporary testing.

In all three, I 3d printed a new battery enclosure, and fashioned contacts by snipping 0.01" brass plate into strips. I superglued them temporarily, and then reinforced them with QuikSteel epoxy. I used a normal battery pack to ensure my contacts were properly aligned. After this process is over, it looks more or less like this:

PXL_20230711_111808171 (1).jpgPXL_20230721_180245887.jpgPXL_20230721_180314012.jpg

The above is my first attempt, I do not have a spot welder or the time to build from scratch, so I wanted to see how far I'd get with an off-the-shelf 5S nimh pack. It's only 2000mAh, but I have replaced my spinny drive with a zuluscsi and was hopeful that it might be somewhat usable. It does boot and run happily on this pack, but it begins complaining about low voltage very quickly, a mere 15 or 20 minutes in. It lasts a fair while after that, but the battery meter drops a LOT depending on activity, the floppy drive in particular makes it nose-dive. I have a suspicion that a single set of cells in series is struggling to maintain voltage at high amperage.

My next attempt was to build one using a 5-cell AA battery holder, thinking that maybe I could do better with 2800mAh cells. This actually ended up faring even worse, and would just power down when using the floppy drive. The battery holder I bought also had pretty crappy wiring, which further reinforced my lack-of-current theory. A battery holder with better wires and contacts might fare better, but it was a bit silly and would still be significantly lower capacity than a stock battery.

I did some research and found out that you can buy NIMH packs with 4/3 AF cells (I went with these ones). These are approximately the same size as 18650 Lipo cells, and carry a whopping 4,500 mah! These packs also have much beefier wiring, so I assumed they would be able to maintain their voltage better under load, and so far in practice this has paid off. They *just* fit in my modified battery pack, and are easy enough to solder up to custom contacts. I did realize that the little half circle cutout is actually necessary 😅 (didn't see it when I peeked in), so I had to cut a chunk out to do my testing.

PXL_20230726_200140413.jpgPXL_20230726_174509005.MP.jpg

I haven't done a proper full drain/runtime test, but the battery meter remains rock-solid when accessing the floppy and doing other high energy tasks, which I take to mean a higher current capacity than a AA cell pack, and the total energy capacity is a good amount above the stock battery now as well. And I didn't need to buy a spot welder!

Just wanted to share and maybe save someone else some trouble. I'll report back after a bit (and after I finalize my thermal fuse placement etc) and we'll see what kind of battery life I get. Happy to answer questions, my modified battery pack file is on thingiverse, but I have NOT had time to add the half circle cutout back, so only print it if you don't mind just cutting an ugly hole in it with some diagonal cutters later.
 

GRudolf94

Well-known member
Current capacity is indeed very important. Larger diameter cells have larger electrode area, and that makes a big difference. Sticking the thermal fuse inbetween the cells 2 and 3, or 3 and 4 would probably be what I'd do. Nice job :)
 

3lectr1cPPC

Well-known member
Noob battery question - how do you determine where to put the fuse? Once I get myself a spot welder, I'm going to be building a proper high-capacity 100 series battery.
 

GRudolf94

Well-known member
Where the biggest likelihood of a hotspot exists in a way it gets detected before stuff cooks - so normally at the center of the pack, or on top of the cells.
 

3lectr1cPPC

Well-known member
Ah I think I'm getting it. You place the fuse where the hotspot is, then wire it to the main connection so that all power cuts if it blows, right?
 

GRudolf94

Well-known member
In the end it's kind of same difference for this case, an open series circuit doesn't care where the break is. But yeah typically it gets wired in at the end of the cell string.
 

3lectr1cPPC

Well-known member
Ok yeah, makes sense. I think I need to brush up on my parallel vs. series circuit info. But I get what you're saying, thanks!
 
Woah, I wasn't expecting to see anything more from this thread - thanks a ton, @flimshaw, I feel like your addition has saved me a whole lot of trouble. On the matter of thermal fuses, would there be any harm in wiring up a small array of 2 or 3 of them over the battery, or would that just be overkill?
 

AEChadwick

Well-known member
i made a battery case that prints in three parts (easy to print with no weird dangles, allowed tracks to hold the case-cover); the case snugly holds one of @flimshaw’s suggested batteries, everything went together great and the battery delivers 6v in the right order (+ on top, - on bottom)... but when i pop it in, my 180 promptly shuts off. It will not restart until the offending battery is removed; when the battery is removed, the 180 is perfectly happy again. Any ideas what I did wrong? I will keep poking around.

(*1995 battery included for scale, all measurements are based on it but it's totally dead)
 

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GRudolf94

Well-known member
i made a battery case that prints in three parts (easy to print with no weird dangles, allowed tracks to hold the case-cover); the case snugly holds one of @flimshaw’s suggested batteries, everything went together great and the battery delivers 6v in the right order (+ on top, - on bottom)... but when i pop it in, my 180 promptly shuts off. It will not restart until the offending battery is removed; when the battery is removed, the 180 is perfectly happy again. Any ideas what I did wrong? I will keep poking around.

(*1995 battery included for scale, all measurements are based on it but it's totally dead)
Is said 180 known to work with any other battery?
 

AEChadwick

Well-known member
Is said 180 known to work with any other battery?
long ago, but it's not had a working battery in about 20 years, so i cannot confirm check that now. i've been inside this 180 a lot, and the motherboard is in perfect shape—nothing busted, nothing leaking, nothing burnt.
 
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