macintosh se/30 no power and no chime

[68030@16mhz]

so i bought this se/30 on ebay , it was working when i got ti , when i first powered it on , it showed a fine line on the screen , but after a fer times restarting the thing , it booted . so at that , i took out the battery , and put it into a restored se shell with good psu and crt ect .

i put it in and it wouldnt do anything anymore , so i put it into the origonal case and psu , the  flyback just arced like nuts . so i had my dad recap the motherboard , i dont think the flyback killed it . but when i looked at the board , terrible corosion and repairs , the battery did not explode ,its the solder apple used to make it , and combined with leaky caps . now , it will do nothing . any ideas ?

cheers

 

[just.in.time]

When your dad did the recap, did you wash the board between removing the old caps and putting the new caps on? Supposedly that can make a difference.

Also, does the SE board still work in the SE? Basically was the SE's PSU and analog board known good?

 

[68030@16mhz]

yes , it was originally a se/30 but downgraded it to a se , why , i was never able to get a working se/30 . and i have  looked at the psu and crt , its a little burned in . yes the se board i was able to get to work in the ebay se/30 for some reason . and yes my dad redid the smt caps and cleaned the board , but as i said repairs were done at some point i don't know why . i got it on ebay for 119  us dollars . still , i have yet to scope it out with my dad , but he has given up on se/30 because he thinks every single one has issues with dead ic and caps and mainly bad solder . the solder apple used was a very cheap early  form of unleaded solder used in the late 80 to the 90s . 

 

[just.in.time]

To verify, that order was remove old caps -> clean board -> install new caps, right? Not remove old -> install new -> clean, or clean -> remove old -> install new?

At any rate, if you have done that in the proper order, send it to maccaps/uniserver. He will get it running.

 

[68030@16mhz]

i said  , old caps removed , cleaned , and new caps installed .

with same symptoms . 

 

[68030@16mhz]

well , my dad didn't wash the board , that s a motherboard suicide . it would de laminate the board and ruin pads . we just got q tips and 100% rubbing alcohol . as i  said , same symptoms . plus ,  wouldn't spend a penny to send it to a person who can "fix it" , that would cost hundreds of $ . and also , why , its just  a se/30 . if i can't find bad components , pads , or ect , i will scrap  the board as not  repairable . anyone got ideas , i know the caps are not the issue . its a component on the board . ALL I NEED IS HELP FINDING A BAD COMPONENT , NOT CAPS 

 

[just.in.time]

yes my dad redid the smt caps and cleaned the board

Nothing there says the order. So no, you did not say initially which order you did the steps... it supposedly matters since the scrubbing cleans the old cap goo from the solder points.
There are plenty of resources on this site listing common traces that get destroyed by leaking caps and must be manually bypassed with a new wire.

Since it sounds like you haven't had any luck with several SE/30 boards I think you should consider just paying the money to have maccaps/uniserver or another one of the users that repair dozens of these boards every year. They will have the expertise and experience to know how to repair the problematic parts.

Edited to add: I believe most people do actually wash the board with simple green or some other gentle cleaner.

Also, the typing in all caps is unnecessary.

 

[68030@16mhz]

ok , i could try that , but i have a update 

my dad is getting a scope . just for my collection of macs needing repair  .

i will post a update when anything happens . 

and i did wash the board with rubbing alcohol . but i have  asked my farther for his opinion on a gentle wash .  but he wouldn't let a drop of water on it .

​he didn't want to risk damaging it evan more than it already is .

i will get a photo of the board . still , if anyone knows how to fix the issue ,  not relating to caps , we replaced caps and washed the board . i will look evryday on the form for a solution .

 

[68030@16mhz]

and yes i have 2 boards , one we bought , the other had sat in my parents house for 15+ years in a hot texas attic . the battery exploded in that one ( we also cleaned and recapped that one with a little change a chime and simasimac of death . but my dad put in around 25$ for some surface mount it's for ue8 ect , that didn't change a thing . ), the one i believe is savable is this one .

i guess it is bad luck with s/30 i have many mad like classic 2 and other , they needed a recap after display issued , but i have yet to see a working se/30 . 

 

[joethezombie]

well , my dad didn't wash the board , that s a motherboard suicide . it would de laminate the board and ruin pads

Um, just no.  Boards are routinely washed in what amounts to a common dish washer after assembly.  It's not going to delaminate.  The thing is, washing just the pads with alcohol is not enough.  The electrolytic fluid that had leaked spreads over a large area of the board, under the ICs and starts eating away at the components, traces, and vias.   This fluid has to be neutralized and cleaned, and just swabbing a Q-tip around the surface with some alcohol is not going to do it. 

 

[aplmak]

68030 just so you know most of the members on here have a lot of experience with recapping mac logic boards. I myself place my boards in the bathtub and rinse with 90% rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush to get under all the chips. After toothbrush scrubbing I do rinse to release any crud the toothbrush loosened. I also wash the backside of the board. As it was said you have to get rid of all the leaked capacitor fluid so it doesn't damage the board further. In my experience washing in regular water doesn't cause any damage that I have seen personally. Naturally after washing the board it needs to be completely dried before any power is applied to it. Of course regular water doesn't neutralize the capacitor fluid as best as the rubbing alcohol. Be sure to check your rubbing alcohol as many stores carry the 50% and the 91%.. the 91% is of course better. I usually then shake over the bathtub and place in front of a space heater with fan from a distance.. a hairdryer is also just as good. 

 

[redrouteone]

I always used distilled water when I wash boards. That way I don't have to worry about it leaving mineral deposits behind when it drys.

 

[68030@16mhz]

update .

i got it to work ish . i found ut if i press the ic ug8 , it will work . so my dad replaced ir , and same thing . we belive its a broken trace going under ug8.