LC III, pink video out

[jdmoser]

I recently acquired an LC III that's in very good condition. Unfortunately, I don't own a vintage Apple CRT so I don't know if I'm experiencing a problem or if I just have a slightly incompatible monitor. As you can see here the video display is pinkish: http://i.imgur.com/QrO8YuD.jpg

I'm using an adapter that I had with my Power Macintosh G3 (Beige), it works fine on that machine along with that same LCD monitor. Adapter pictured here connected to the LC: http://i.imgur.com/WVBBEbu.jpg

I have experience recapping, so that's not an issue if it comes down to it. Otherwise if it's just a matter of not having an Apple monitor more suited to this particular machine then I'll go on the hunt for one!

 

[uniserver]

sometimes you have to wiggle the video cable onto connector ,

did the LC III ever have a battery explosion?

 

[Macdrone]

I believe your adapter if you turn it over says for G3 only. I suggest one that supports the 67 hz of the LC. I had the same deal until I found one with switches or an actual apple adapter that didn't say G3.

 

[jdmoser]

I've just played around with the connection as best I can, wiggled everything, still no luck. There's no leakage of capacitors or the PRAM battery, the board looks excellent.

 

[Macdrone]

Well don't always trust looks for capacitors. Some dry up the goo directly under. But if you have good sound and it works that's great.

 

[uniserver]

i'v had a LCD monitor go all pink like that,

it was given to me for free at work.

I was lazy and just replaced the bulging caps, ( to get it working ) . sure enough it did start working, but it had a pink hue just like that. I really needed to replace all the caps.

 

[NJRoadfan]

The pink hue is usually a sign of a failing back light bulb.

In the OP's case, its one of the color channels not making it to the monitor. You are getting blue and red, but no green.

 

[jdmoser]

Well, I kind of "solved" the problem... I have two HP 2011x monitors hooked up to my main computer here, and I tried one of them with the LC III and it works just fine. No pink. The reason I didn't try this earlier, even though I should have, is that I assumed if my older LCD didn't work, certainly my newer ones wouldn't.

But that's the thing with technology, huh. You have to try everything.

This still leaves me at a loss though, because I have no idea what's different between my HP monitors and the old LCD I was using: a brand I haven't really heard of, xplio, which could explain the incompatibility whereas more established brands like HP may be more reliable. If there's a particular feature I should be looking out for though, I have no idea what it is.

Obviously the best bet is to use Apple CRT monitors to avoid these kinds of oddities, but LCDs definitely have a space advantage and are easier on the eyes. It would be nice to know if there's something specific to watch out for, or if this is just a game of chance

 

[uniserver]

great!

If your PSU is a TDK one… there are caps in there that go bad. If its still going, you are on borrowed time.

The aztec LC PSU's there was like 3 revisions, the revision that was in the 475/605, I think was the best. Revision 3?

the first revision is the worst… I wont say unfixable but they have a soldered in aluminum plate covering all the smoothing caps.

they all leak and just rot out everything… the rev2/3 aztech is much better mainly just the 47uf 25v cap before the transformer goes bad, witch keeps the psu from coming on. there was a few DANA LC PSU's out there… they seem to be pretty solid.

also the caps on the mainboard if they have not been serviced… they are close to failing.

i am just saying buddy.

Charles

Maccaps.com

 

[uniserver]

great!

If your PSU is a TDK one… there are caps in there that go bad. If its still going, you are on borrowed time.

The aztec LC PSU's there was like 3 revisions, the revision that was in the 475/605, I think was the best. Revision 3?

the first revision is the worst… I wont say unfixable but they have a soldered in aluminum plate covering all the smoothing caps.

they all leak and just rot out everything… the rev2/3 aztech is much better mainly just the 47uf 25v cap before the transformer goes bad, witch keeps the psu from coming on. there was a few DANA LC PSU's out there… they seem to be pretty solid.

also the caps on the mainboard if they have not been serviced… they are close to failing.

i am just saying buddy.

Charles

Maccaps.com

 

[jdmoser]

That's good to know, thanks! I know very little about the LCs, I've only just become interested in the model.

I guess while I'm here talking about it I may as well add... the floppy drive works great, the auto inject works, but it doesn't like to software eject. I don't think it's a mechanism issue, not that I can see, because I can eject disks manually without applying any unusual force. Searching for answers is a bit tricky since they all lead to lubricating the drive's mechanisms. Unless there's a different component involved in the auto eject that may need lubricating? (As opposed to any mechanism triggered by manual eject)

 

[uniserver]

yeah you gotta lube the mechanics more then likely,

do you hear the eject motor try? when you eject a disk?

i love this stuff it works fantastic on 400k/800k/super drive floppies,

basically spray the typical spots and run a junk disk in and out about 4 times and it works like new.

also works fantastic on firearms.

this looks like a better package of it though… you can get more precise… i will have to order this.

 

[jdmoser]

do you hear the eject motor try? when you eject a disk?

Nope, it doesn't do anything nor does it make any sound like it's trying to do something. The read/write head moves up, which I assume is part of the unmounting process, but that's it. You wouldn't even know it was trying to eject, haha.

Also, I checked out the PSU. It's definitely Astec but I don't know what revision. There's a barcode that reads AM311CCK03VA and the model number reads AA16251. The part number reads 614-0003 if that's also relevant.

 

[uniserver]

yeah you have the good one 0003,

there is a mechanical switch right next to the eject motor, witch controls it, maybe you could check that out see anything looks broke… also if you follow the wires make sure the header is plugged into the pcb.

 

[uniserver]

the ones that are crap are 699-0153

 

[onlyonemac]

do you hear the eject motor try? when you eject a disk?

Nope, it doesn't do anything nor does it make any sound like it's trying to do something. The read/write head moves up, which I assume is part of the unmounting process, but that's it. You wouldn't even know it was trying to eject, haha.

My Performa's floppy drive used to do that. No sound at all.
Then, magically, halfway through a long disk-swapping session it came to life. First a squeak, then a grunt, then a grown, then POP. Out comes the disk!

Just use the drive lots and lots and the mechanisim will free up. Be sure to have a paperclip handy, though.

 

[jdmoser]

Some unfortunate news on the floppy drive... in the process of determining what was wrong with it, I figured the eject motor was stuck. The gears on it weren't moving at all. Anyway, after some fiddling around with that I tried testing the drive again and something on it burnt out. Not a lot of smoke, but definitely visible :O

So it looks like I'm gonna go back to my Plan A which was just simply locating a new drive. No biggie. The computer still works great, I even successfully recapped some of it last night. There's nothing quite like seeing a Macintosh board with new tantalums on it!

 

[onlyonemac]

There's nothing quite like seeing a Macintosh board with new tantalums on it!

Presumably not what mine looked like after recapping! Caps stuck on at all angles with large blobs of solder looking like they're about to fall over!

 

[mcdermd]

:-/