ImageWrite II International users: Beware!

[genie_mac]

I finally managed to find a reasonably priced ImageWriter II on Ebay last week. Description said unit did turn on but no further testing was done. Seemed safe enough so ended up winning the auction for about 15 Euro.

It finally arrived yesterday and I proceeded to, as I always do with old computer stuff, read the section in the manual on how to set things up. Seemed straight forward enough. Experience also taught me to have a good look at old equipment before I turn it on. So I find a small Voltage selector switch hidden away under the platen roller. It's set to 220V. Ok I change it to 240V just in case, but the printer came from the UK, where they have 240V. Hmmmm...

Well, as you can guess, it is dead. Blown fuse and short in the power supply (I checked). I'm not trying to blame anyone here, but the strange thing is that there is absolutely no mention in the manual about having to select the correct voltage, especially as the sticker on the back looks like this:

[attachment=0]IMG_0947.JPG[/attachment]

How would you interpret this? Is it a universal power supply? It certainly is, but not an automatic one. Would you know that the correct voltage need to be set first? I guess if it said 100-240V that would imply that it is automatic, but still not that clear I would say.

So just be careful if you have the international version!

Well it's a real pity as the printer is in absolute immaculate condition. Maybe I'll be able to get just the power supply board (without the transformer) but even then I can't be sure if the rest of the electronics are OK

 

[uniserver]

i don't really see what 20 vac difference would do?

unless its more like single / dual phase?

 

[Anonymous Freak]

i don't really see what 20 vac difference would do?
unless its more like single / dual phase?

I bet genie meant it started at 120, not 220.

Edit: Although, now that I look, it does list 220 separately from 240... Maybe it really is that sensitive?

 

[genie_mac]

Yeah I can't be sure if over voltage has caused the failure.

Just saying that the wrong voltage setting could be a problem and that voltage selection is not automatic.

At least I found some schematics for it already, but there are some really hard to find components in there :O

 

[uniserver]

well what voltages does it need.. maybe you could just make your own psu, or borrow one from something else.

 

[techknight]

your going to need many voltages. youll need logic voltage, the localtalk +/-12V voltage, and the Servo voltage.

 

[Ike]

Hahaha we in the Netherlands run on 230V,

NOW WHAT? :lol:

 

[techknight]

Hahaha we in the Netherlands run on 230V,NOW WHAT? :lol:

Generate them from the power supply.

Fix the original power supply? by replacing the chopper transistor, and any other components you fried.

 

[CelGen]

North American voltages vary wildly from 110-120 and 220 to 240v. It generally doesn't hurt a modern power supply as the regulators can take the voltage but for the sake of simplicity sometimes you can have multiple voltages you can set to if you want to be really region specific or offset for different frequwncies. Most likely the last person set it to 100 or 120v and plugged it in, blowing everything up in the process. I've found an ImageWriter II on this side of the pond that acted partially brain dead until I noticed it was set to 230v.

 

[genie_mac]

Not even sure if overvoltage has caused the problem.

PSU is a funny design alright, there is a big old transformer that outputs 37 VAC form a range of mains voltages (110-240V) and feeds a switch mode power supply.

I can't see any obvious damage, desoldered rectifier and chopper transistor, they are OK. Desoldered all caps and they test good as well. There still is a short between power and ground at DC input to the PSU (after the rectifier). Might be the voltage regulator IC, this crazy 18pin IC (EC-A063) for which I can't find any info.

Could pick up a replacement for $15 but shipping is another $25...not really worth it...not desperate enough yet

 

[uniserver]

you could always jumper the fuse and stand back..and plug in, it might fry… but it might not, if it frys the problem might visually present its self.

or it maybe a switching transistor is stuck and will just start going again.

 

[genie_mac]

or it maybe a switching transistor is stuck and will just start going again.

Might try the 10 pound sledge to kick start the transistor

 

[techknight]

Well if it blew the fuse, Most likely there are metal oxide varistors, or transient voltage suppressors in the line circuit. This is designed to blow the fuse during a gross overvoltage situation.