All:
I started a discussion on de-yellowing compact Mac plastics in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8794 which was about my adventures in reviving and restoring an eBay-purchased 512K Mac. There has been enough discussion about de-yellowing in that thread that I thought I would start a new/separate topic on the subject of de-yellowing Apple compact Mac plastics - in my case, a 512K and a 512Ke (and associated peripherals). Using Hydrogen Peroxide (H202), Water, Oxi-Clean and Sun/UV light, I have been able to reverse the yellowing effects of UV light.
My efforts stem from what I learned in this thread in the Vintage Computer forums: http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/showthread.php?t=11877
Part 2 of that thread: http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/showthread.php?t=12566
Part 3 of that thread: http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/showthread.php?t=14369
The creator of the Vintage Computer forum thread started a Wiki on the subject of the causes of yellowing and how to de-yellow vintage computer plastics. The wiki can be found here: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/ The wiki is a good place to start - it explains why H202 and Oxi-Clean work together with UV light (it is not a bleaching process).
What has worked on my Apple Compact Mac Plastics:
Unlike many in the Vintage-computer forum thread, I have been using a much more diluted percentage of Hydrogen Peroxide (3% to 1% H202 as opposed to 30% to 40% H202) and seen excellent results. The Apple Compact Mac plastics do not seem to need high percentages of Hydrogen Peroxide.
Here is a picture of the items I have been using:
For my Apple Compact Mac plastics, I have found that store bought (Walgreen’s here in the US) bottles of hydrogen peroxide, which contain 3% Hydrogen Peroxide, can be mixed with water to fully submerge the plastic. I've mixed the store bought Hydrogen Peroxide with water resulting in an H202 percentage as low as approximately 1%. My H202 is less than $2 per bottle. Also try Target, Walmart of KMart for better prices.
I use a heaping tablespoon (give or take) of Oxi Clean for each gallon of water/H202 solution.
Note that contributors to the Vintage Computer Forums thread have created a paste/gel using various thickeners to lower the amount of Hydrogen Peroxide needed (H202 costs can add up) to cover/treat the surface. Also, they point out that you can substitute a UV bulb/light source for sun.
In general, with the exception of my spacebar, it takes about 6 hours in sunlight to fully remove any yellowing from my Apple Compact Mac plastics. I have been de-yellowing my Apple Compact Mac plastics in batches (each item in a clear plastic container of solution). The spacebar seems to be made of a different type of plastic and I have been placing it into each batch - which progressively removed the yellow from the spacebar. The spacebar took about 5 six-hour sessions to get to the same colour as the rest of the keys.
After cleaning, I have been wiping down the plastic with 303 Aerospace Protectant: http://www.303products.com/tech/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=428&CFID=48239433&CFTOKEN=80652972
Here are some results:
My Mouse:
Before:
After:
My HD20 Case:
Case before (you can see the footprint where the Mac used to sit on top):
Case in the solution (used clear plastic to allow max UV penetration):
Case outside in the sun (UV):
Case after:
My de-yellowed 512Ke and peripherals:
Photo series: http://www.flickr.com/photos/33624199@N08/3302578478/
Note the photo navigation to the right on Flickr - this series of photos shows the 512Ke Case/keyboard/mouse, all after H202 cleaning and 303 Protectant. Also in this series are some keyboard closeups showing an H202 treated keyboard and before/after shots of 303 protectant - to try to show the effect of the 303 treatment.
Overall Observations:
1) I have experienced no "collateral damage" thus far. That is to say, no logos, screened on labels, serial number labels or model number labels have been harmed or faded. AS you can see in the pictures, I did remove the square Apple logo from my HD20 case by popping it out of the case (push from the hole behind it - see the pictures below). On my Mac 512K cases I left the same square Apple logos on and experienced no damage - it's hard to tell if these stickers are made of aluminum or steel - if the latter, you risk oxidation. So far my square Apple logo stickers have been fine. The paper serial number label on the bottom of my mouse, HD20 and Mac 512 cases look fine (there was some absorption around the edges of the serial number labels, but it dries out). See number 9 below.
2) The insides of the HD20 case and Mac 512 cases were not effected in any way that I can see (Some have asked if the aluminium-based gray coating oxidized in any way).
3) Outside temperatures do not seem to effect things. I've done this in low 30 degree temps and high 50 degree temps - same results. The sun has been low in the sky (it's winter here in Massachusetts).
4) The percentage of H202 can be very low and still work. When I de-yellowed my Mac 512 cases, I could not find enough bottles of H202 to get the plastic wash tub/bin more than 1/3 full. I used water to fill the tub to the point where the case was fully submerged. The results were still great.
5) The Oxi Clean powder may not fully dissolve at first. It's ok, just leave it in the bottom of the container/solution - it dissolves eventually.
6) After the plastics come out of the solution and are dry, I've been using "Aerospace 303 Protectant" on them. The 303 Aerospace Protectant has a UV block. Additionally, to me the plastics seem dry and very subtly uneven in tone. Adding the 303 solution seems to enrich the plastic, even out the tone and has the nice by-product of providing some UV protection. Unlike Armorall (which can be oily and wet/shiny looking), the 303 Protectant leaves a non-slick and "more natural" finish.
7) Be careful with steel screws - they do oxidize - not badly.
8. JDW, through interactions with members of this forum, pointed out that bottled H202 is likely not just water and Hydrogen Peroxide and contains stabilizers that are not disclosed in the ingredients. See number 9.
9) WARNING DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND TESTING THIS ON SOMETHING YOU ARE NOT AFRAID OF PERMANENTLY DAMAGING. As mentioned, I have experienced zero damage to any of my plastics, logos or labels thus far. However, there are several examples out there of permanent damage as a result of this process (my belief is that this damage stemmed from unnecessarily high concentrations of H202). An example of a damaged logo: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3175/2976915302_c7147f084e.jpg?v=0 and an example of an over-whitened space bar (update - confirmed that the H202 concentration used on this spacebar was 32%): http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/showthread.php?p=91594#post91594 (both of these examples are pulled from the Vintage Computer Forums threads).
10) YOU ARE WORKING WITH AND MIXING THINGS THAT COULD BE HARMFUL TO YOU. WEAR GLOVES AND PROTECTIVE EYE WEAR. I regularly reach into the solution with my bare hands and then rinse them after in fresh water. I've had no problems. Be smart.
In the spirit of sharing information, please also post significant new findings and share your results with the folks over at the Vintage Computer forums using the links provided above.
Let me know if you have additional questions. I will update this first post if additional information surfaces.
Lumpy
I started a discussion on de-yellowing compact Mac plastics in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8794 which was about my adventures in reviving and restoring an eBay-purchased 512K Mac. There has been enough discussion about de-yellowing in that thread that I thought I would start a new/separate topic on the subject of de-yellowing Apple compact Mac plastics - in my case, a 512K and a 512Ke (and associated peripherals). Using Hydrogen Peroxide (H202), Water, Oxi-Clean and Sun/UV light, I have been able to reverse the yellowing effects of UV light.
My efforts stem from what I learned in this thread in the Vintage Computer forums: http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/showthread.php?t=11877
Part 2 of that thread: http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/showthread.php?t=12566
Part 3 of that thread: http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/showthread.php?t=14369
The creator of the Vintage Computer forum thread started a Wiki on the subject of the causes of yellowing and how to de-yellow vintage computer plastics. The wiki can be found here: http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/ The wiki is a good place to start - it explains why H202 and Oxi-Clean work together with UV light (it is not a bleaching process).
What has worked on my Apple Compact Mac Plastics:
Unlike many in the Vintage-computer forum thread, I have been using a much more diluted percentage of Hydrogen Peroxide (3% to 1% H202 as opposed to 30% to 40% H202) and seen excellent results. The Apple Compact Mac plastics do not seem to need high percentages of Hydrogen Peroxide.
Here is a picture of the items I have been using:
For my Apple Compact Mac plastics, I have found that store bought (Walgreen’s here in the US) bottles of hydrogen peroxide, which contain 3% Hydrogen Peroxide, can be mixed with water to fully submerge the plastic. I've mixed the store bought Hydrogen Peroxide with water resulting in an H202 percentage as low as approximately 1%. My H202 is less than $2 per bottle. Also try Target, Walmart of KMart for better prices.
I use a heaping tablespoon (give or take) of Oxi Clean for each gallon of water/H202 solution.
Note that contributors to the Vintage Computer Forums thread have created a paste/gel using various thickeners to lower the amount of Hydrogen Peroxide needed (H202 costs can add up) to cover/treat the surface. Also, they point out that you can substitute a UV bulb/light source for sun.
In general, with the exception of my spacebar, it takes about 6 hours in sunlight to fully remove any yellowing from my Apple Compact Mac plastics. I have been de-yellowing my Apple Compact Mac plastics in batches (each item in a clear plastic container of solution). The spacebar seems to be made of a different type of plastic and I have been placing it into each batch - which progressively removed the yellow from the spacebar. The spacebar took about 5 six-hour sessions to get to the same colour as the rest of the keys.
After cleaning, I have been wiping down the plastic with 303 Aerospace Protectant: http://www.303products.com/tech/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=428&CFID=48239433&CFTOKEN=80652972
Here are some results:
My Mouse:
Before:
After:
My HD20 Case:
Case before (you can see the footprint where the Mac used to sit on top):
Case in the solution (used clear plastic to allow max UV penetration):
Case outside in the sun (UV):
Case after:
My de-yellowed 512Ke and peripherals:
Photo series: http://www.flickr.com/photos/33624199@N08/3302578478/
Note the photo navigation to the right on Flickr - this series of photos shows the 512Ke Case/keyboard/mouse, all after H202 cleaning and 303 Protectant. Also in this series are some keyboard closeups showing an H202 treated keyboard and before/after shots of 303 protectant - to try to show the effect of the 303 treatment.
Overall Observations:
1) I have experienced no "collateral damage" thus far. That is to say, no logos, screened on labels, serial number labels or model number labels have been harmed or faded. AS you can see in the pictures, I did remove the square Apple logo from my HD20 case by popping it out of the case (push from the hole behind it - see the pictures below). On my Mac 512K cases I left the same square Apple logos on and experienced no damage - it's hard to tell if these stickers are made of aluminum or steel - if the latter, you risk oxidation. So far my square Apple logo stickers have been fine. The paper serial number label on the bottom of my mouse, HD20 and Mac 512 cases look fine (there was some absorption around the edges of the serial number labels, but it dries out). See number 9 below.
2) The insides of the HD20 case and Mac 512 cases were not effected in any way that I can see (Some have asked if the aluminium-based gray coating oxidized in any way).
3) Outside temperatures do not seem to effect things. I've done this in low 30 degree temps and high 50 degree temps - same results. The sun has been low in the sky (it's winter here in Massachusetts).
4) The percentage of H202 can be very low and still work. When I de-yellowed my Mac 512 cases, I could not find enough bottles of H202 to get the plastic wash tub/bin more than 1/3 full. I used water to fill the tub to the point where the case was fully submerged. The results were still great.
5) The Oxi Clean powder may not fully dissolve at first. It's ok, just leave it in the bottom of the container/solution - it dissolves eventually.
6) After the plastics come out of the solution and are dry, I've been using "Aerospace 303 Protectant" on them. The 303 Aerospace Protectant has a UV block. Additionally, to me the plastics seem dry and very subtly uneven in tone. Adding the 303 solution seems to enrich the plastic, even out the tone and has the nice by-product of providing some UV protection. Unlike Armorall (which can be oily and wet/shiny looking), the 303 Protectant leaves a non-slick and "more natural" finish.
7) Be careful with steel screws - they do oxidize - not badly.
8. JDW, through interactions with members of this forum, pointed out that bottled H202 is likely not just water and Hydrogen Peroxide and contains stabilizers that are not disclosed in the ingredients. See number 9.
9) WARNING DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND TESTING THIS ON SOMETHING YOU ARE NOT AFRAID OF PERMANENTLY DAMAGING. As mentioned, I have experienced zero damage to any of my plastics, logos or labels thus far. However, there are several examples out there of permanent damage as a result of this process (my belief is that this damage stemmed from unnecessarily high concentrations of H202). An example of a damaged logo: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3175/2976915302_c7147f084e.jpg?v=0 and an example of an over-whitened space bar (update - confirmed that the H202 concentration used on this spacebar was 32%): http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/showthread.php?p=91594#post91594 (both of these examples are pulled from the Vintage Computer Forums threads).
10) YOU ARE WORKING WITH AND MIXING THINGS THAT COULD BE HARMFUL TO YOU. WEAR GLOVES AND PROTECTIVE EYE WEAR. I regularly reach into the solution with my bare hands and then rinse them after in fresh water. I've had no problems. Be smart.
In the spirit of sharing information, please also post significant new findings and share your results with the folks over at the Vintage Computer forums using the links provided above.
Let me know if you have additional questions. I will update this first post if additional information surfaces.
Lumpy
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