Caps! -- 2 Versions of SEGA GameGear, (reminded me of pb100)

[uniserver]

2 - Versions of SEGA GameGear Main-Boards

1 - Game Gear Sound board, Same in all versions.

I'm posting this because it might be helpful to our fellow members, and working on these reminded me very much of the Powerbook 100.

Version 1

2 - 100uf 6.3v

1 - 22uf 6.3v

1 - 4.7 35v

2 - .47 50v

1 - 33uf 6.3v

1 - 68uf 6.3v

4 - 10uf 6.3v



Later Version 2

5 - 10uf 6.3v

2 - 10uf 50v

1 - 47uf 6.3v

1 - 1uf 50v

1 - 33uf 6.3v

2 - 100uf 6.3v



Sound Board

3 - 100uf 6.3v

2 - 47uf 4v



As for the replacement caps for these I tried ceramic... does not work, causes issues

I tried Tantilum, nope, Both of these solutions do not provide the raw punch of capacitance you get from an electrolytic.

So just choose radials, and sort by price, I chose the cheapest radials, and they work great in all 4 of the GameGear's i have completed.

and they are all going to be tiny enough, you lay them on their side just like like bad ones you are going to be removing, if you want to glue them down too, feel free.

 

[uniserver]

forgot 2 caps,

(updated) later revision 2

 

[James1095]

Curious, what problems did you find using tantalums and ceramics? I re-capped one of these a few months ago using a mix of those and it seems to work fine. The screen doesn't look great, but I figured I was just spoiled by modern TFTs. Passive matrix screens never were very good, but maybe I can improve things with a different type of capacitor. Certainly for the audio board the ceramics work fine.

 

[uniserver]

basically that was just it... the screen contrast was not the way it should be... it was washed out.

and after about 10 minutes it would start shutting its self down.

 

[uniserver]

(This is a cut and paste PM to a 68kmla member)

If you happen to buy a broke game gear and want to re-capp it your self... i suggest such... that way you can save alot of money and get a lot with games and everything else for much cheaper.

So far from the 4 that i have done, and from the input of a few people, seems like when they are broke they do just need caps.

Doesn't seem like the crusty electrolyte causes any permanent damage so far. So my point is if they say doesnt work.. pretty much just means, needs caps.

 

[James1095]

Hmm, I wonder which particular caps affect the screen contrast? Wish I had a schematic for the thing, that's surprising that the tantalums don't work as well. It had been ~20 years since I'd played a Game Gear when I got the one I have so I couldn't recall how the screen was supposed to look. The tantalums sure made it look a lot better than it did with the leaky electrolytics though.

I've heard of the backlight CCFL failing too but that was fine in mine. I've seen some LED mods that apparently extend the battery life quite significantly but I'm using NiMH batteries so that hasn't been a huge concern. Back in the day I remember these things ate alkaline AA's like popcorn. It was a large part of the reason the Game Boy with its ugly puke green and black screen was so much more popular. It would run for more than 10 hours on 50% fewer batteries.

 

[uniserver]

Wow here is yet another Revision of the Sega Game Gear.

1 - .47 50v

2 - 100uf 6.3v

1 - 68uf 6.3v

1 - 4.7uf 35v

3 - 10uf 6.3v

1 - 22uf 6.3v

1 - 33uf 6.3v