With all those settings, what we really need is some
good documentation about how to properly use
Sony Test.
I guess there's no documentation at all, so it's a kind of reverse engineering job that has to be done here.
Unfortunately, my expertise in electronic engineering is limited, so I'm surely not able to grasp all the details.
Anyhow, I personally use the module in the screen shot, which gives the possibility to:
- select the drive: "Select" menu in the menu bar
- switch it on / off: "On / Off" button (toggles)
- eject the disk: "eject" button
- check rotational speed at each track: "speed chk" button + "CurTrk" slider: you can detect Hall effect speed sensors failure (not uncommon: see previous posts)
- format disk: "format disk" button. When it fails, you can see at which track it stopped, my (limited) experience is that failures at track 00 and track 79 are normally due to bad alignment
- format individual track: you can check disk tracks one by one (failures at a specific track may be linked to bad media)
- test the drive+disk: "start test" in combination with "Test Seq" and "Options". If an error occurs and "stop on err" is selected, it will stop and you will be able to read at which track the test failed. In the bottom right window you can read some hex codes per each track (am=address mark? dm=data mark? ps=pass count?), but unfortunately so far I could not guess more.
Overall, what I know is that the perfectly reconditioned drive should fulfil the following conditions:
1) be able to format known OK disks which later on can be read/written by other known OK drives
2) be able to read/write known OK disks created by other known OK drives
3) pass above test with zero errors for a some passes (in the screen shot, for example: 1008 passes OK in ascending sequence "seq+", means it goes from track 00 to track 79 in sequence and then all over again).
Mind that the above mentioned points are not necessarily always holding simultaneously true for a given drive. For example, successfully passing test 3 may still be not enough for fulfilling points 1 and 2. And viceversa. Finding the perfect alignment by trial and error just by loosening and tightening a screw and imperceptibly moving the board is unnerving and not for everyone, but seems to be the only way for bringing back to life dead drives.
Additional remarks:
1) it's indeed key to use good floppy disks, as all tests and procedures are about drive+floppy. So far I could not find any third party software for checking 400k floppies (say, similar to Norton Disk Doctor) for validating "good" media, so I normally run through some floppies before taking any conclusions.
2) cross checking interoperability of created floppies with a 800k or 1.4M drives also adds additional validation to a calibration
3) I must say I'm not able to guess why these drives need an alignment even after so many years, as all adjustment points are normally factory sealed with glue (the free stuff covering screws), but fact is a recalibration is what is most often needed for getting drives back to work
4) either way, always start with a thorough clean of the r/w head with isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab or lint-free cloth cutout. I prefer letting the alcohol doing the job rather than mechanically scrubbing, so I deposit a droplet of alcohol, wait some time and then proceed with mechanical means.