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Ooops! I didn’t notice the link 🤦‍♂️

I know you can read data off of a DS2300 using an ardiuono but havent found out how to emulate the chip itself. would you need any support hardware or could you do it with the ATTiny by itself?

Ahhh. Bummer I don’t have one of those anymore to even try. I had a 540c but sold it a while back. Yeah those smart chips are a big hurdle to get through. The next one on my list is the Pismo / Lombard. In these duo packs, they’ve got a DS400 in them that had a unique customer ID and serial...

Finished my pack. Used ternegy 2000mah AA nimh and get 2 hours at full discharge. Now I need to figure out how to replicate the serial off the DS400 so I can make more.

Finished my repro pack. I used the Ternegy 2000mah AA batts. I get 2 hours minimum from battery amnesia. Unfortunately I don’t have a way yet to duplicate the serial number on the DS2400 chips so an original battery is still required to build a pack.

I opened the 2300c up and set my bench supply to 1.6A / 12v and connected to the battery terminals direct and it would not boot. Then connected the ID chip and it booted right up.

I bought the same 2/3A batteries from the same link above and they are too wide to fit in the enclosure. At least the replica one I have modeled to 3d print. They are wider than standard AA batteries right? Can I use higher Mah batteries? Would these work for example: https://a.co/d/bErZy60

Thanks for the info. Might be my powerbook then. I wonder how crucial that like ID component is. I ownder if you were to just supply 12V to the far ent terminals if it would boot normally. Mine doesnt.

Hey All, I rebuilt a test pack for my 2300 and, although it is charging it will not power the machine. it shuts down immediatley when disconnecting the external A/C adapter. Are the battery types not interchangeable between Duo versions? I have two packs. One is a model #M7782 and the other...

Well unfortunately the issue came back. I haven’t figured it out yet. It’s rather applying head fixes it temporarily for I can’t get a good connection on the board to all 4 rams. I kept working on it all night and made things worse. Going to go through all connections carefully and hopefully get...

Omg! I reflowed it and it’s fixed!

Well shoot. Just spent hours replacing the vram and same problem. But worse. May be incompatible ram in some way or I have a bad solder connection but it looks good to me. Regardless it’s apparently not the vram. If anyone has any ideas please let me know. I don’t think there are any...

😂 I know haha but the correct battery might just snap in after I pull the tabs off

Ooops! I mistakenly put a 2032 standard non rechargeable in my PB180! Just opened it up and removed it and ordered a VL2020 rechargeable. I hope I didn’t damage anything! 🤷‍♂️ hard to test because you have to put it back together.

Ohhh wow ok. So I wonder if you can put a bluescsi in one then. The drive was silver so I think it was a quantom and not a Conner.

Oh I think I’ve seen that it’s a dock connector that has two ports and one is the square scsi connector. Is that what you mean? Actually now you got me thinking you could probably make a mold of it and re-cast it in a a soft silicone.

Uhg I just put it all back together and forgot to look or take photos. Now to make this thing complete I need a batter back with the sliding cover and the back left tilting tab that covers the modem is broken. And the keyboard is stiff as hell. Someone needs to make a new repro rubber...

It lives! I opened it up and removed the ram and all the connectors and then reseated it all and powered on and had a screen and no hard drive then I tapped it and it fired back up! Lol 😂 easiest fix ever. On the packs.when I had the machine apart I measured With “-“ lead on far right...

OK, Yeah I have made a few packs now.. I have a spot welder. Ive recapped and repaired several boards, just not familiar with the duos... Going to try that flashlight trick now.

Oh ok I thought there were tantalum caps on it. I haven't opened it up yet. The batteries look fine. No corrosion. I will know more once I open it up. I guess there's no way to rule out the display as the problem by connecting an external display without a dock. Yeah this pack rebuild looks like...