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Basically that's it. I got on fixing the hinge of my pretty little PB 540c, that had the display completely detached due to a broken case, and I dare to call it a success. I'd like to share it with you, in case someone finds it interesting.

 

First I tried with epoxy glue, that did the trick for a while, but not much. I also tried bicomponent putty (as google translate says), with no results. I even tried to fix it using cofix, a plastic used to repair scratches in ski and snowboards, that you can melt and shape, but didn't work either.

 

So finally I made some kind of subframe for the display using a 3D printer. I designed it myself, if someone is interested I can give them the file or upload it to thingiverse. As you can see in the pictures below, the thing is about removing all remaining pieces of the original mountings to make room for the new frame. I used a heated blade to cut the plastic easily.

The frame has a wide area that is 1mm thick and hides between the display and the case, spreading the force applied to the hinge. The lower part of the frame is where the hinges are bolted. I made a couple mistakes that I didn't bother to correct and print again. First, I didn't give space for the two plastic bolts that centers the display, so I cut it with scissors. Also, I should have lowered the height of the frame in the middle, so the lower display board would sit flat. I just kept it in mind and not overtightened the screws as it could bend the board.

 

The ideal material for this would have been PET, for strength reasons, but I didn't have any, so I used ABS and seems to be enough. Also I thought about glueing it with epoxy but finally I didn't, because it feels quite good now, and if it ever breaks it will be much easier to replace if it isn't glued.

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Great project! I'd definitely be interested in the files, native CAD or STL. Now if only we can figure out how to repair those little display access cover hooks...

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10 minutes ago, ttb said:

Great project! I'd definitely be interested in the files, native CAD or STL. Now if only we can figure out how to repair those little display access cover hooks...

PM me and I send you the files. What cover do you mean?

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The cover that goes over the hinge access area:

 

IMG_1098.thumb.jpeg.551447838b5a3e6e122cdbfe22012e65.jpegIMG_1097.thumb.jpeg.68ed4d1ec21c7316e9007c32427cbcd2.jpeg

 

The twin clips mate with a wide overhang so I'm thinking of using either a formed metal piece or a 3D printed plastic piece that fits between them (or whats left of them). It can be glued in and would considerably more robust than the individual clips.

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I think these files should definitely be uploaded somewhere for all to access. Definitely alot of PB users here that need this. 

 

However like yours, both my 500 series lappies need some kind of center piece fix though.

 

If only there was a similar solution for my PB150... Been tempted just to say sod it and drill a hole and stick a bolt thorough and be done with it.

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On 5/15/2020 at 4:58 PM, ttb said:

The cover that goes over the hinge access area:

 

IMG_1098.thumb.jpeg.551447838b5a3e6e122cdbfe22012e65.jpegIMG_1097.thumb.jpeg.68ed4d1ec21c7316e9007c32427cbcd2.jpeg

 

The twin clips mate with a wide overhang so I'm thinking of using either a formed metal piece or a 3D printed plastic piece that fits between them (or whats left of them). It can be glued in and would considerably more robust than the individual clips.

Mine isn't broken luckily, but I can give it a try and see if I can make something.

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1 hour ago, techknight said:

OOOO I love this. 

 

We need something like this designed for the PB1XX series as well. 

 

I have 180Cs and a number of others that are dealing with this problem. 

Send me some pics to see the problem. I have a 170, so I can get the measures myself.

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its basically the same thing. the stand-offs are broken from the rear of the LCD case lid, so the LCD doesnt mount in place at the bottom properly, and of course, the hinges wont mount at all. I will have to get pics when I pull them out, but I bet 90% of the people here have similar problems. 

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On 5/15/2020 at 4:58 PM, ttb said:

The cover that goes over the hinge access area:

 

IMG_1098.thumb.jpeg.551447838b5a3e6e122cdbfe22012e65.jpegIMG_1097.thumb.jpeg.68ed4d1ec21c7316e9007c32427cbcd2.jpeg

 

The twin clips mate with a wide overhang so I'm thinking of using either a formed metal piece or a 3D printed plastic piece that fits between them (or whats left of them). It can be glued in and would considerably more robust than the individual clips.

I came up with two designs that may work, I haven't tested yet as I don't have epoxy glue right now, but both fit well.

The first one fits between the two broken clips (you need to cut them flat). The second has a large glueing area, but requires to remove both clips completely and centering the piece by hand.

I've just posted them in the same thingiverse thing, link below. I'd print it in ABS, due to its better glueing capacities, and using a 0.2mm nozzle if possible (pictures are printed with a 0.4mm). I'll let you know when I get the glue.

photo5913415942589756422.jpg

photo5913415942589756423.jpg

photo5913415942589756424.jpg

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The little version of that clip is exactly what I was picturing, great work. Looking forward to hearing about how it works when glued. 
 

If you have any trouble with delamination you may consider printing it with the clip laying on its side. Right now it looks like it was printed in the orientation shown in your photo, which may make it easier for the overhang to break off. 

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8 hours ago, ttb said:

The little version of that clip is exactly what I was picturing, great work. Looking forward to hearing about how it works when glued. 
 

If you have any trouble with delamination you may consider printing it with the clip laying on its side. Right now it looks like it was printed in the orientation shown in your photo, which may make it easier for the overhang to break off. 

The big deal here will be the glueing part. It will be a lot weaker than the layer adhesion. I won't go cheap on the epoxy, I'm thinking on this: https://www.mundoceys.com/storage/app/media/fichas_tecnicas/510106 HT ARALDITE STANDARD.pdf

I'm sorry, I couldn't find an English version, but if you look at the graphic measuring resistance in MPa, it has the best values for ABS and Polycarbonate I could find. If you have a better recomendation, I'm listening.

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According to Henkel's Loctite plastic bonding guide an instant adhesive may be your best bet: https://www.ellsworth.com/globalassets/literature-library/manufacturer/henkel-loctite/henkel-loctite-design-guide-plastic-bonding.pdf

 

Loctite 414 acheives 24MPa against ABS and roughened PC: https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/instant-adhesives/loctite_414.html

 

This will require your gaps to be small, though, so the adhesive (which is brittle) won't crack.

 

EDIT: And Loctite 414 is just a "special" cyanoacrylate glue, so it's likely any super glue will do similarly well.

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16 hours ago, ttb said:

According to Henkel's Loctite plastic bonding guide an instant adhesive may be your best bet: https://www.ellsworth.com/globalassets/literature-library/manufacturer/henkel-loctite/henkel-loctite-design-guide-plastic-bonding.pdf

 

Loctite 414 acheives 24MPa against ABS and roughened PC: https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/instant-adhesives/loctite_414.html

 

This will require your gaps to be small, though, so the adhesive (which is brittle) won't crack.

 

EDIT: And Loctite 414 is just a "special" cyanoacrylate glue, so it's likely any super glue will do similarly well.

Yes, I'm digging in the Henkel and Ceys sites and it seems cyanoacrylate has slightly better resistance than epoxy. Thanks for the input!

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Update on the PB100 fix project, I've just finished the first attempt. I'll print during night and see if it fits. I alreasy glued the threads on my 170, I didn't remember. It's a question of time that I have to to it anyway, so I think I will remove all threads and test if the 3D printed fix works fine.

 

I leave a picture of the thing.

 

image.png.ab81b872d0541a90f1f556d1a4cf58d8.png

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Finally, I finished the PB 100 series hinge fix. This one has been a little more tricky than the 500 series by some reasons, and I had to reprint it a few times to correct a couple issues. Some considerations:

-Unlike the 500 series, the backpanel of the display isn't flat. This makes glueing the 3D printed part to the case mandatory. Otherwise, the screen has some free movement and when the lid is closed it opens a gap between the two cases. I couldn't get the glue yet, but I'm sure that glueing it will solve it.

-The part must fit a two-leveled surface, 1mm a part. This forces to print a 1mm suport under the hinge area. No way this can be printed in PLA and get the support removed. I never worked with PET, but ABS is very easy to peel the supports, so I'd go with ABS for sure. Indeed it's easier to glue to the case if it's made in ABS.

-About the threads: I've reused the thread inserts, so I could use the same screws, but note that I've inserted it BACKWARDS, so the thick part touches the case. This way makes it much difficult for it to loose. It comes in pretty tight, so I recommend to use a vice if possible. You might be able to insert it with pliers, but it could enter bent and break the plastic. Also make sure to remove all glue and plastic rests you may have in the threads. I burned it with a lighter and screwed the screw a few times to make sure the thread was clean.

Also using this system reduces considerably the tolerance of the print, so the threads don't misalign with the hinges. Fortunately my printer is quite precise and I don't need to adjust anything before printing, but you should make sure your printer doesn't distort any dimension. There are some benchmarks on thingiverse to measure such distortion so you can adjust it before printing. I think that's all. I leave the link to the thing in thingiverse and some pictures of the process where you can see what I mentioned above.

-I made the part to embrace the metal hinge, so the back panel shield won't fit anymore. I had to cut it with scissors leaving a little piece that will sit between the part and the hinge, still making good contact to the chassis.

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4391026

 

 

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I really never thought this day would come. A fix for this curse has been created! Thank you for taking the time to design this.

 

Looks like I’m going to have to have to break down and get a 3D printer at some point...

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1 hour ago, PB145B said:

I really never thought this day would come. A fix for this curse has been created! Thank you for taking the time to design this.

 

Looks like I’m going to have to have to break down and get a 3D printer at some point...

There are several 3D printing shops, at least in my city, where you can go and they'll print it for you. But if you think you can make use of it, don't doubt and go for it. It's the best inversion I'd done in a very long time, it had paid itself several times.

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