hbanko Posted October 16, 2019 Report Share Posted October 16, 2019 Hi Guys, I finally got lucky and scored a Macintosh Classic in good shape. It got (of course) the checkerboard issue due to capacitor leakage. The board looks pretty clean but looking closer revealed that the capacitors close to the power connector leaked (C5, C6, C8, C9) . The one worst was C6 and when I tried to unsolder him I managed to rip off the negative solder pad (the side with the black stripe on the cap). Anyone able to tell me where I can wire the negative of the replacement capacitor to instead? Just hope I am not completely screwed now :-(. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Daniël Oosterhuis Posted October 16, 2019 Report Share Posted October 16, 2019 Generally, any nearby ground would work. However, if you want to do it neatly, I'd suggest giving this video a full watch, and seeing if any of the suggested methods of dealing with ripped pads apply to your case: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HeartletTullius Posted October 16, 2019 Report Share Posted October 16, 2019 1 hour ago, Daniël Oosterhuis said: Generally, any nearby ground would work. However, if you want to do it neatly, I'd suggest giving this video a full watch, and seeing if any of the suggested methods of dealing with ripped pads apply to your case: Yes, this guys videos are brilliant! I would highly recommended him! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jaek_3 Posted October 16, 2019 Report Share Posted October 16, 2019 OP could you snap a picture and post it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bolle Posted October 16, 2019 Report Share Posted October 16, 2019 C6 is connected directly to ground and 5V right at the power connector. Just try to leave it out, it should still run just fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hbanko Posted October 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2019 Thanks Guys, under a strong magnifying lens and after unsoldering all of them I saw how the pads connect with the circuit. There was still that line left that lead into the pad. After scratching off a bit of the protective layer I was able to connect the negative side of the capacitor to it. Replaced all 4 caps that are below the power connector and after the 3rd attempt turning on the Mac, it actually booted up. So it does start now but it takes a few attempts. It’s a bit funny, even when it boots it comes up with the checkerboard first. Then it disappears and it boots. Still have two surface mount caps to replace on the logic board today. But maybe worthwhile to have a look at the analog board. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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