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PB 145 screen recap question


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Can someone help me find replacement capacitors for the 145b lcd panel that I just disassembled? I took the 145b apart to re-grease the clutches, clean out the remaining flakey black stuff (that was everywhere inside of it when I got it from eBay) and to re-cap the lcd board.

 

Here is what I found:

C1 1 3.3 35V

C4 1 3.3 35V

C5 1 3.3 35V

C9 H2 100 6V

C10 H3 22 35V

C6 1 3.3 35V

C7 1 3.3 35V

C8 1 3.3 35V

C2 1 3.3 35V

C3 1 3.3 35V

C17 1 3.3 35V

 

so basically, 9x3.3uF 35V caps, 1x100uF 6V cap and a 22uF 35V cap - I would prefer Tantalums, does anyone have these bookmarked already?

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  • 2 weeks later...

All done and put back together, it opens and closes so smoothly now.

 

I recapped the LCD panel (thanks Uniserver, for the suggestions that helped to improve my soldering)

...cleaned out all the remaining little black flecks (there were even some between the screen and the backlight that were very small, but your eye was drawn to them)

I degreased and then greased the clutches (I used Mass Flow Sensor cleaner to de-grease, which worked very nicely)

I re-fixed the hinge screw (one of them that I had previously repaired cracked out when disassembling it and the insert fell out) This time I used JB Weld with the metal in it, and it was a much better fix than the other product that I had used before - thanks to those, who contributed to the sticky about the 160 hinge. The information came in very handy.

 

The screen is MUCH more clear, the contrast will now hold a setting, where before it would 'drift' (you had to increase it while using the laptop to keep it at the same setting).

Now, I am going to go buy a battery for it :) ...and then load some fun apps on it.

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  • 1 month later...

I'm running into the same problems with my PB165's screen. The contrast setting "floats" depending on what content is on the screen. I took the screen assembly apart and saw the caps in question, but they are surrounded by a white plastic frame making any solder work impossible. How the heck do you get that frame out without breaking anything?

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You have to remove the metal frame first. The metal frame is held on the LCD panel with 1 screw on the front and metal clips around the panel that hook into the backpanel of the LCD. Have a look at the sides of the frame and you'll see what I mean.

 

You have to straighten the metal clips/hooks from the frame so you can take it off. Then gently lift the plastic LCD panel out of the housing.

Avoid touching it at the back and repair it in a dust free environment. Let's say clear all the dust first before working on the panel as we don't have a dust free clean room at home :-)

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I wish I had taken more pics through the process, these were mainly just to document what it looked like so that it would go back together looking pretty much the same. (also to make sure that I was using the right caps).

 

The one that shows the metal bracket doesn't show the screw, but it was pretty small. Another thing to remember is to not twist the ribbon cabling at all if you can help it - its getting pretty old now.

 

The previously posted directions will work fine, but getting hold of a copy of the Macintosh Powerbook service source (the same one works for the 140, 145, 145b and 170 models) is really helpful.

pb145bscrbck01.thumb.JPG.0f95619d24e9eb6d75ffafacdc266b0d.JPG

pb145bscrbck05.thumb.JPG.48765574abb141dc53753593402d2958.JPG

pb145bscrbck06.thumb.JPG.3aaed58e2536f00e5f7f658a8f6b6d52.JPG

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As far as I can see, the layout and cap specs are the same for the screen of the PB160 I have just disassembled.

 

NB there are also a couple of electros on the inverter board that sits in the main case near the left hinge. I will replace those as well, as inverter caps are usually more suspect than LCD caps - due to higher current load in normal use?

 

I was surprised to find that all SMD caps on the motherboard in my PB160 are tantalums - is this original or does it indicate somebody has already done a manor re-cap?

 

Rick

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