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So I recently got my Classic II out of storage and it has the checkerboard screen disease. I also rescued a Classic this weekend that seems to have video board trouble. I may not even bother with it and stick to maybe fixing the Classic II. Classic II's can be lovely little machines for small tasks. I wish I could find my SE but I don't see it in storage and don't remember parting with it. I'll have to content myself with reviving the Classic II for now I suppose. Wish me luck.

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My Classic II also quit working. I just finished putting it back together yesterday. There was some signs of leaking capacitors on the mother board. I scrubbed down that area of the mother board and flushed off with water, dried it out on the heat register, assembled it. No sound at all, but otherwise works normal. I used it daily for 2 years. It has 10mb of ram, 250mb hard drive and is using O.S.7.0.1* It is nice to have it working again.

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I'm going to get to work on mine soon, but I need a torx that will fit down in the holes in the handle. I have one in my tool kit but it's too thick for those. Don't remember what I used last time I opened one of these but I know I opened my old SE. I resurrected my LC520 by cleaning the logic board and works fine now so keeping my fingers crossed.

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There is the old trick of taking a Torx T-15 bit from any ratcheting magnetic tool bit screwdriver and wedging it into the end of a standard Bic pen (pull out the ink and pen cartridge from within, of course). This will work in a pinch and the shaft is long enough to reach down inside the handle. Or get a long extension for the bit and work both down the handle and it will be enough to undo and/or tighten the screws. The latter is what I've done.

 

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

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Torx T-15 bit / and wedging it into the end of a standard Bic pen

Or for something that'll take a bit more torque without shattering, a piece of copper plumbing pipe. You can jam the Torx bit into one end and form a hex shape around it with a vice or pliers, then shape the other end to take any kind of handle or driver you have handy.

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I thought that was a great idea, but since I am at work ... I tried to make one using some (who knows what) kind of metal tubing we use on our pianos (get off me its Friday :p )

 

But it is quite a bit larger than the extra t15 bits I had and after trying to get a good crimp on it using the bench vice the tubing just couldn't handle much before ripping all apart

 

so I cut a section to size, and beveled the end with a belt sander, using the concrete floor and a hammer I followed that beveled edge holding the tubing at an angle and tapped on the other end while rotating which narrowed the tube down to size quick

 

I taped it off and flood flilled the tube with some hard core industrial epoxy, Ill let you know how it works on monday (this stuff takes a minimum of 48 hours to set)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I use a rubberised plastic pen barrel, something like a Paper Mate, with the bit pushed very hard into the open end. This works well because the plastic's not the kind that can shatter. I had to shave it down slightly because the Torx bit made the end of the pen flare out so it wouldn't fit the holes. On a machine I've not opened before, I have to use pliers on the end to start the screw turning. When I reassemble, I only put the screws in finger-tight with this tool, so if I need to I can get them back out again without needing the pliers.

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