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Here are .stl files for the tray.

This is a little different than the one i printed off; it's got a lid with through-holes to secure the lid to the tray with screws & nuts.

I haven't run this modified one off yet myself; still using the prototype tray.

 

This is made to use brass strips to make the battery cell contacts, and to make the connection to (and form) the battery contacts which connect to the internal laptop circuits.

My local hardware store sold brass strips in these sizes.

 

I had intended to use six off-the-shelf NiMH cells here, but the voltage was a little too high, so I use five, and span the empty battery location with the wires from a thermal fuse, and rest the fuse head between two cells.

 

I use the sliding battery cover from my original PB battery, but it's not connected to the printed battery tray; the tray has two spacers which contact the inside face of the sliding battery cover, holding it in place. These spacers are bevelled to provide fingerholds for removal of the battery.

 

This isn't the greatest - it's really skeletal so that I can print it off at the local library within the time limit given to users. If you're printing it at home, this might serve as a starting point; I think filling in the voids would make for a more robust battery tray.

PB TRAY.zip

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I'm loving this thread! It's great to see the theoretical threads of the past laid down in real life. The only part I can think of offhand that hasn't been mentioned is the rear latch on the Portable's base plate for removal of the back cover. Thanks for the outside links on technical aspects, parts and larger printers becoming affordable, keep those coming!

 

+1 for 610/6100 feets.

 

 

 

edit: I think printing some accessories might be a good idea once one of the larger printers comes online. The Kensington(?) vertical stand for the Macs II-fx in samurai-j's avatar come to mind:

 

post-902-0-93646000-1488463830.jpg

 

 

Edited by Trash80toHP_Mini
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I am not that good at CAD (outside of PCB CAD), or I could find all kinds of uses for that stuff. 

 

PB1XX battery tray like mentioned here, with the guide rails so I can put the original slide cover back into place, 

 

And then the PB Duo battery, make a tray for that as well as the slide rails for the front cover piece. 

 

Bunch of other battery housings, Latch/hinge covers, etc... 

 

Heck with a 3D Printer big enough, maybe even replicate whole case parts? Or at least the elusive Q9XX CDROM cover. 

Edited by techknight
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I just printed up a pair of the PB 1xx trays, and they came out really well. 3D printing replacement plastic bits is a great thing, and Westinghouse is a dang prodigy with the design.
The trays even have freaking rounded edges! I wouldn't have thought to incorporate that had I designed the tray myself.

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Oh... I gotta get back into CAD and build up an STL for a port replicator for the Pismo with readily available cables/connections on fleabay.

 

I'll get something going over Christmas break.

 

If you need one to model for the project, I've got the BookEndz/Pismo in hand. It's a bit large to print out of whole cloth, but doing the dirty on the back end mounted to laser-cut clear plexi docking sled bits would work great.

 

 

@Westinghouse: I've got the BookEndz/1400 for modeling if you'd like to take a shot at it. I'll throw a 1400/somethingorother reconstituted from the 1400Stack into the pot for you if you'd print me a few replacement battery holders. Don't need to do the BookEndz at all, that's just a whim. But sending the original 1400 batpack back with the replacements nets you that 1400/xxx if you're without and even more street cred. [:)]]'>

 

Gotta get a power boffin into the mix here to do the circuitry for a current bat tech replacement pack for the PB100's SLA tech mess. Are SLA cells even available today in PB100 scale?

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Just got a new thermal tube and nozzle for our 3D printer.  If this doesn't fix the overheating, don't know what will.  The new thermal tube has fins on it like a heatsink instead of just a regular tube.  Hopefully this will keep the filament from melting inside the tube.

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Can anyone make models for the compact Mac floppy disk drive gears that break often. Also, the Apple leaf and CD bezels for Clamshells would be awesome too. Lastly, a slot Loading Optical disk drive cover for Pismo/Lombard PowerBook G3s would be nice as well. I have access to both a MakerBot Replicator 2 and MakerBot Replicator+ (we're now on our 4th MakerBot Replicator+ As the 3 previous were recalled/faulty).

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I wouldnt recommend it.. No idea what that brand is. I had a Monoprice Maker Select I3 (Wanhao Duplicator i3) and it was fine, but I hated leveling it. now Im looking into a lulzbot or something, but for over $1000 I dont know if its worth i9t to print a part every now and then...

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I’ve experimented 3d printing some Wallstreet hinges pieces.

My idea was to try with some carbon fiber reinforced PLA plastic, which is stronger than PLA but less flexible, and doing the hole for the axis small enough with a slot at the top, making like a clamp around the axis to have a good resistance to rotation so to have the screen lid staying in place.
Here are picts of the first « prototype » , the black part , the piece in indeed very strong.
 
post-2324-0-82367800-1489696212_thumb.jpg
post-2324-0-49276100-1489696197_thumb.jpg
 
But even though the axis is very tightly fitted inside, it doesn’t give enough resistance to rotation, and the screen rotates too easily , doesn’t stay in place… :-/
if someone have some idea how to make it more stiff. Maybe with some silicon grease ?
 
Here a Screenshot of the second try ( I had to do some adjustments on the dimensions of the first try on the photo above to fit in the case , small dimension error). 
post-2324-0-88009700-1489696243_thumb.png
 
And the .stl file if anyone wants to try.
Edited by galgot
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Off topic: What printers do you guys have? I had a Wanhao i3, but I'm upgrading to a lulzbot Mini soon...

 

I think the Prusa i3 is the one with the best quality I have seen so far from local enthusiasts. But, to get the best results requires an enclosure with ventilation and good temp controls.

 

Nearly every complaint I have read about these units involves either poor filament or the alignment of the vertical bearings. Filaments can easily be swapped but the bearings require a bit more care.

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